Campagnolo Veloce Monoplanar tension adjustment

[garygkn]

Yes I was doing this via the conical part without much accuracy.
I'll do it via the block.

[garygkn]

I've had enough of it now.
I managed to get it all nice and straight.
I pulled the brakes a few times all was good.
I used the cable adjuster to get the pads closer and now they are slightly out again.
I'd like to be able to do it myself as I'm not sure where I could take it to be sorted and plus it could require adjustment at any time.

[tatanab]

I used the cable adjuster to get the pads closer and now they are slightly out again.

So realign the calliper with the brakes set at the clearance you like. Brucey is right that it is easier using the spring block instead of the flats on the conical bit. The spring block is what I would use if I were doing the job - just a disconnect between brain and typing fingers.

[Brucey]

if the centring changes with the cable adjustment, this usually means that either

1) the springs are not moving equally easily where the plastic sleeves are (try with a drop of oil/without the plastic sleeves)
2) that the brake cable is too bent/too short and is pulling the whole caliper round (small frames with aero cables are particularly bad for this).

The vast majority of quality side pull brakes were made to be adjusted this way for about 50 years or so. In the absence of major faults most time-served mechanics would add two drops of oil to the springs and set your brake inside 30 seconds.

cheers

[garygkn]

Just got back from the Moulton meet at Bradford on Avon.

Tomorrow I will first try the oil and then if this does not work I will put a longer cable on.

Thanks again for all the advice and help.

[garygkn]

I got to the bottom of this it was the wheel. The hub had some movement and was out of true.
I popped in a track front bolted on wheel.
I may put some new cones and bearings in and get it trued. For now I'll use the spare front wheel.
The jockey wheels need lube hey are a bit noisy.

[Gattonero]

...
2) that the brake cable is too bent/too short and is pulling the whole caliper round (small frames with aero cables are particularly bad for this).

The vast majority of quality side pull brakes were made to be adjusted this way for about 50 years or so. In the absence of major faults most time-served mechanics would add two drops of oil to the springs and set your brake inside 30 seconds.

cheers

I agree with that, and will add that it is absolutely normal for those brakes to not move perfectly in sync, nor to be always 100% centered.
What for the human eye may look like a big difference in gap, when measured it may be 1/2mm or less, which is actually better than the truing error in an old wheel with non-machined rims.
As a rule of thumb, use a suitable allen key (like a 3mm) as a gauge for the distance of the pads from the rim. Use a cone spanner (15mm, IIRC) on the rear block to center the caliper in a satisfactory manner. We assume that the wheel is correctly dished, try to flip it the other way round to be 100% sure.

[garygkn]

Thanks. I was going to take the wheel to the local bike shop but they have a wheel man come in and collect on certain days. I'll have a look into truing wheels. The handle of the lever came off my friend said it just requires a new circlip.

[Gattonero]

If the lever of the QR skewer has come off you may want to inspect it carefully or better to replace the skewer.

Classic Campagnolo skewers had the lever held in place with a circlip in a groove. If rust forms on, the circlip won't stay well in place and get dislodged while operating the skewer.
The risk is too high. Last thing you want is the skewer to fail and your front wheel coming off, for the sake of £2 for a new skewer