Servicing old Look PP247 pedals

[Samuel D]

I got it from Wiggle, actually. You’d think a Look tool, being French, would be easier to get in France (where I live). Nope! Nobody here had it in stock.

Wiggle’s pricing is bizarre. I paid €3.93 for it, but I see it’s £7.99 for UK buyers (often these prices are reversed, e.g. with Park Tool items). To get nearly free shipping, I did have to buy a chain and inner tube I wanted anyway and a cassette I don’t yet need, but their prices for these items were ridiculously low so I didn’t mind.

The torque is low, so if you’re making a tool, you could probably get away with half the number of castellations as the Look tool.

[Brucey]

that sounds like a good result!

link for the tool here

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/look-cromo-axle-assembly-removal-tool/?curr=GBP&dest=1

or here

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/look-cromo-axle-assembly-removal-tool/?curr=GBP&dest=11

like Samuel says, it is presently cheaper to deliver to France! Zut alors!

If anyone wants to make a tool, I'd suggest making one from 1/8" thickness mild steel plate of suitable width/length. First drill/file a large hole (corresponding with the minor diameter of the spline). Next file eight notches to fit the spline (which ought to be straightforward; the required notches are square such that they can be filed easily). Job done!

In use, just try to remember that the RH retaining sleeve has a LH thread, and the LH retaining sleeve has a RH thread.

cheers

[Samuel D]

If anyone does try to make a tool, I can provide measurements from the Look. Just tell me what you need.

[rjb]

If anyone does try to make a tool, I can provide measurements from the Look. Just tell me what you need.

Thanks Samuel, but its probably just as easy to measure direct from the pedal.

[Brucey]

if the bearings are rough, you may need to replace them.

However the outboard bearing runs directly on the spindle, so that might need to be replaced too. The outboard roller bearing itself will only come out of the (pref preheated) pedal body using an extractor tool (or, if you are clever, and the fit is not too tight, some thick grease, the pedal spindle and a smart blow; a similar method is used to remove spigot bearings from engine crankshafts). Another alternative is welding something to the bearing and then using a slide hammer.

The bearing itself is almost certainly an inexpensive commercial quality one with a drawn cup; they cost about three quid each or something like that. Measure up the old one to identify the replacement. BTW a tiny amount of free play (if you like, check this by assembling the pedal with no lube in it) in this type of roller bearing is considered 'normal'; unless the bearing is obviously rough or the spindle is badly marked up, I wouldn't bother to replace it.

The inboard bearing is a standard one that you will be able to order against the number written on it. Before ditching the old one, (and if it hasn't been done already) it isn't a bad idea to remove the outboard facing shield so that it can be cleaned properly. You don't need this shield when the pedal is in use; it is mainly there to help prevent contamination when the pedal is apart.

cheers

[Samuel D]

Thanks for these potential courses of action.

I’m still riding the pedals, but the roughness (not much play) seems to be slowly getting worse. The pedal is a faff at road junctions, etc., because it doesn’t reliably stick up it’s nose when I unclip. Being an efficiency fanatic, I also wonder if it’s absorbing power under load (probably not much!).

[Brucey]

If the inboard bearing is binding a little, this is strongly suggestive of some corrosion within it, and/or dry seals (rather than wear per se). If lubricated well enough it ought to free off, but it may ultimately need replacement.

In the meantime, might I suggest a shot of gear oil inside the pedal? This ought to penetrate far better than a #2 grease, and lubricate everything more than well enough. The only real risk is leakage; hardly a major burden?

hth

cheers

[Samuel D]

The only burden would be buying an oil for the purpose, not having one lying about. I might yet do that.

[Brucey]

even an engine oil would be OK if it is mixed with a little grease.

When cycle touring, I never buy oil; I top up my little bottle using what is left in the bottom of discarded 1L bottles I find at filling stations.

cheers

[mig]

Thanks for these potential courses of action.

I’m still riding the pedals, but the roughness (not much play) seems to be slowly getting worse. The pedal is a faff at road junctions, etc., because it doesn’t reliably stick up it’s nose when I unclip. Being an efficiency fanatic, I also wonder if it’s absorbing power under load (probably not much!).

are your pedals still in use? i ask as my commuter look deltas are getting rough now so i'm weighing up going the tool route for repair or looking for some replacements.

[Samuel D]

are your pedals still in use?

They were in use until a few weeks ago. One of the bearings was never quite perfect, but adding some oil on top of the grease did improve it. In the end they started clicking on climbs (or everywhere, but I could only hear it at the slow speed of climbing) even with new cleats, I think because grit between cleat and pedal wore a hollow into the soft aluminium body over the years, allowing vertical play. I now use Shimano SPD-SL pedals with steel wear plates. They’re not as nice to get in and out of as the Looks were.

I recall these pedals being inexpensive when new (€30? Albeit a long time ago), but they were built to fine standard. Of course they were heavy: over 400 g. That’s probably unacceptable in today’s market.

[mig]

are your pedals still in use?

They were in use until a few weeks ago. One of the bearings was never quite perfect, but adding some oil on top of the grease did improve it. In the end they started clicking on climbs (or everywhere, but I could only hear it at the slow speed of climbing) even with new cleats, I think because grit between cleat and pedal wore a hollow into the soft aluminium body over the years, allowing vertical play. I now use Shimano SPD-SL pedals with steel wear plates. They’re not as nice to get in and out of as the Looks were.

I recall these pedals being inexpensive when new (€30? Albeit a long time ago), but they were built to fine standard. Of course they were heavy: over 400 g. That’s probably unacceptable in today’s market.

thanks

think that i will retire mine. the bodies are okayish but the right pedal has started to hang at odd angles from the off so i can get stalled at the lights in rush hour traffic. don't really want to replace on all six bikes though!