Pinching tubes on installation.

[Jeff31]

I use a techniques similar to Brucey's, always finishing at the valve when putting the tyre back on. It puzzles me that so many start at the valve where it is most difficult to get the bead in the rim well making it more difficult to get the last bit of the tyre over the rim.

One thing I like to do once the tyre is back on is partially inflate the tyre and then roll the wheel, whilst pushing it down, for at least a complete revolution and then roll it back. I feel this gives the inner tube a chance to free itself from being trapped between the bead and rim, even though I have already looked out for this and push the valve up, and also helps the tyre to seat correctly when I fully inflate it. I have no evidence or science to support this but it doesn't seem to cause any harm and might be doing some good so I continue my little ritual even if it does add 30 seconds to the time taken to complete the job.

Jeff

[mjr]

One thing I like to do once the tyre is back on is partially inflate the tyre and then roll the wheel, whilst pushing it down, for at least a complete revolution and then roll it back. I feel this gives the inner tube a chance to free itself from being trapped between the bead and rim, even though I have already looked out for this and push the valve up, and also helps the tyre to seat correctly when I fully inflate it. I have no evidence or science to support this but it doesn't seem to cause any harm and might be doing some good so I continue my little ritual even if it does add 30 seconds to the time taken to complete the job.

I do something similar, rolling it and bouncing it gently. I've had a couple of tyres fail to seat evenly in the past, especially wider ones, and this seems to reduce the amount that happens.

[Stewart H]

I like to dust tubes and beads with a little talc to help everything slide into place, unless tubeless car or motorcycle ones, I use fairy liquid on those, it is always more about technique than brute force, just enough air in the tube to give it shape, very important to get the fitted part of the bead wire right down into the well of the rim, if the last bit does not pop on easily just go back around the tyre pushing the bead into the middle, yesterday I fitted a new pair of 27 inchers to my Raleigh Medale! (unlike me to spend ) I was working in the lounge (SWMBO was out) so to avoid detection I omitted the Lily of the valley talc, I still got them on without levers but the tyre was far more reluctant to slip into place, from extremely stiff radial motorcycle tyres to fat car radials the technique is the same.

[sjs]

Tyres are tighter now than they were, because pressures are on average higher than they were, and people are likely to sue if a tyre blows off. On the positive side, rims with deep wells are also available.
Chrina have been mentioned.....these use an old extrusion with a shallow well, and the price doesn't leave much money to spend on quality control.

By a combination of the methods mentioned (though I must admit I don't usually finish at the valve) I hardly ever have to use levers to replace my tyres. And though tyres have no doubt got tighter on average in recent decades, my current crop seem particularly loose fitting. For instance the 40mm Hypers on my Tour de Fer actually fall off if I try to push the bike with a deflated tyre, which can be inconvenient.

[fausto99]

It can all be very tricky, as there are so many variables; new or old tyre, deep or shallow rim well, bead or folder, etc, etc. For what it's worth here are my tips which have been very well received on the road by fellow riders on local CTC rides.

1. I'm always surprised how many cyclists don't know about or realize the significance of the well in the rim! You must use it. Go round and round the wheel pinching the tyre to make sure the beads on both sides are fully in the well. Push the valve into the tyre when you get to that part so you can be sure the tyre is in the well in the valve region too. You should not have fitted the valve nut at this point (I never use valve nuts at all). Most tyres will go on without levers if both beads are fully down the well, no matter how shallow. It may be necessary to go round 2/3 times or more before this happens. Believe; mind over matter works!

2. If the bead insists on riding out of the rim as you insert the other end (esp. if the tyre is newish), use a toe strap (old-timers) or re-usable cable tie to anchor the tyre at one point as you work your way round adding cable ties as you go. Then do the well thing as tip no.1, and the tyre will pop in.

3. As you get to towards the end, if the inner tube insists on peeking out between the tyre and the rim and it you can't poke it back with your finger 'cos the tyre is very tight at that stage, use an old lolly stick (a Magnum one is my favourite) to poke it back in. They're perfect for the job; not too thin, not too thick, nice and rounded. (Have you ever tried poking a hole in an inner tube with the blunt end of a lolly stick - impossible).

[MikeF]

I use these tyre jacks
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/var-tyre-levers/



Some tyres and rim combinations are impossible without for my hands anyway. Cheap Ryde Chrina rims

Using oversize tubes is a common reason for pinching them too.

Yes those are good because you can pull the tyre over rim rather than trying to lever it over. The Koolstops mentioned above work on the same principle.