Cycling when very overweight - advice on bike suitability and getting started

[slowster]

I posted on a previous thread (viewtopic.php?p=1612493#p1612493) that I would have a go at formulating some standard guidance for overweight people wanting to take up cycling to lose weight and get fitter, including links to some of the previous threads where people sought advice and related their own experiences. Below is my initial draft/outline, but it needs a lot more work and not everyone will agree with what I have written.

One possible issue that might need to be addressed is that posts by any of us on a thread in response to a request for advice are clearly just the opinions of individuals who happen to belong to the forum. Taking things any further than posts by individual forum members is potentially problematic, because the advice could be construed as being endorsed by Cycling UK by virtue of being published on its forum.

That prompted me to look at the advice Cycling UK publishes on its website for beginners, https://www.cyclinguk.org/advice-beginners, and it appears that the absence of advice for people who are very overweight is a significant omission. Even the thumbnail photographs for each article often show people who are not only not overweight, but often clearly thin, fit, experienced cyclists.

It seems that people who are very overweight face some of the same or similar issues as other minority groups, but whereas Cycling UK has been active in providing support, encouragement and advice for people with disabilities, for women's groups, and for other 'outgroups', as far as I am aware it has not done anything similar for people who are overweight. Nor is there suitable guidance from the NHS as far as I am aware. It seems that people who are very overweight and want to take up cycling to lose weight and get fitter, are left to overcome the various difficulties, fears and concerns by themselves with little or no help or guidance.




Many people who were overweight and wishing to take up cycling, whether for exercise and weight loss, for utility riding, or simply for pleasure, have posted on this forum seeking advice on choosing a bike and getting started. This post collates some of the information and advice in those previous threads, as well as providing links to some of them.

Why Cycling?

Cycling has a number of advantages over other exercise activities, such as swimming, running and walking.

- the non-weight bearing rotational movement of pedalling is less likely to cause injury to the joints etc. than running or even walking
- it's easier to fit into most people's lives than swimming, which typically requires travelling to the pool, getting changed etc.
- it's possible to control how much effort you put in by using gears. It's not necessary to pedal at a high intensity and end up uncomfortably hot and sweaty - you can ride quite slowly and even get off and walk up hills if that is what feels most comfortable for you; you will still get an exercise benefit from doing so.and burn calories
- you can wear ordinary clothes. There is no need to buy lycra and other specialist cycling clothing, especially for the sorts of short rides that you should be aiming to do to begin with. Every day millions of people wearing ordinary clothing commute to work by bike and ride to their local shops etc.
- it's a form of exercise which can simply be part of your normal daily life. If you cycle daily to work or to the shops, you don't need to think about making time each day to exercise.

What Bike?

The most important requirements are that the bike fits you and is in a roadworthy condition. Most bike manufacturers suggest a range of body heights for which a particular size bike is suitable, and a good bike shop should also help you choose a suitable size bike.

Many manufacturers specify weight limits for their bikes. For example, at the time of writing for some of their bikes Decathlon specifies 120kg for the rider plus luggage plus the weight of the bike itself, and Halfords specifies 120kg plus 20kg for luggage (https://www.decathlon.co.uk/static/prod ... -guide.pdf, https://www.halfords.com/bikes/faqs/). Many people who are very overweight will exceed those limits. That means:

- Damage to or failure of the bike (or parts of it) due to the weight limit being exceeded is not covered by the manufacturer's warranty.

- The manufacturer will probably refuse to accept any liability for injury etc. to a rider resulting from such damage or failure while the bike is being ridden.

Therefore when someone who exceeds the weight limits buys a new bike, there is a significant element of buying at their own risk (although that is something which also applies to everyone who buys a second hand bike). They have to take more responsibility for choosing a bike that will be able to accommodate their weight. However, there will be a margin of safety in such weight limits, and how a bike is ridden is likely to make a difference to how it copes with the weight limit being exceeded.

The fact that two bikes might have the same weight limit, does not mean that they are equal:

- For a given price point some bike types will tend to be inherently stronger than others, e.g. an MTB will typically be stronger and cope with more abuse than a lightweight road/race bike.

- A better quality bike which is made by a reputable manufacturer will be superior to the very cheap bikes typically sold online by retailers which are not bike or sports equipment specialists.

For a very overweight person it is the wheels - in particular the spokes - that are the part of a bike that is most likely to fail and cause problems, resulting in the wheel going out of true. The wheels on most mass-produced bikes are made by machines, and whilst for most people and most types of riding they are adequate, they are unlikely to be as strong and reliable as a similar wheel built (or rebuilt/re-tensioned) by a skilled wheelbuilder. Members of this forum can probably suggest suitable local wheelbuilders if required.

Whatever bike someone might choose, but especially if it is a second hand bike, it may be advisable to consider having the wheels inspected and the tensions checked, or to have them rebuilt from scratch using new spokes, or even completely replaced with a new pair of hand-built wheels. If that is not done to begin with, it might become necessary later if spokes break and/or the wheels go out of true.

Some suggestions for bikes:

1. An MTB without suspension is suitable for a wide range of use. The wide tyres that can be fitted to an MTB do not need as high a pressure as a narrower tyre for a road bike, and that results in more comfort. As well as being suitable for riding on the road, they are also ideal for riding off-road on bridleways and tracks.

2. A heavy duty utility bike. Bikes in this category are generally heavier than MTBs. They are also less versatile: an MTB can be used for utility riding and for long distance road and off-road riding, and typically has sufficiently low gears to allow steep/long hills to be tackled, but a utility bike is generally suited only to short local rides and often has a fairly high bottom gear, which - together with the typical utility bike's weight - make it less suited to very hilly areas. However, utility bikes are often very practical bikes for short distance local rides:

- good carrying capacity for shopping etc.
- versions with a step-through frame make mounting and dismounting very convenient
- typically they are low maintenance, e.g. especially if they have hub gears and hub brakes (as opposed to disc brakes or rim brakes)

People who wish to use cycling for fitness and to lose weight may find that a utility bike is a good choice for them because it helps them exercise little and often, and is very convenient to use. A good example of a utility bike is the Elephant Bike, which is a re-conditioned former Royal Mail delivery bike:

https://www.cycleofgood.com/elephant-bike/

A second hand bike may also be a good option. In some towns there are charities which sell used bikes which they have inspected and reconditioned, and which can be very good value. It may be worth investigating whether there is one near you.

Medical Advice

For many people who are overweight, cycling is likely to be the ideal form of easy, low intensity exercise to lose weight safely and improve fitness, but neverthless you should check with your doctor before getting started.

How Far & How Frequently To Ride?

Little and often is best. To begin with it will take time, maybe weeks, for your body to become accustomed to riding a bike. Riding a short distance most days or every other day should be enough to help you get used to riding, and for your body to adapt. There is no need to set challenging targets or goals - your first ride need be no further than to the end of your street and back. Increase the distance bit by bit until you are comfortable riding for 20 minutes or so. Too much, too soon is likely to lead to setbacks that will result in improvements in fitness and weight loss being stalled or reversed.

Where possible use the bike to make any short distance journeys, such as to the shops or to see a friend. To begin with you might only feel able to do very short such rides, e.g. a few hundred yards, but as you get fitter and more used to riding, a trip of a few miles will soon probably be well within your capability, and even seem quite easy.

How Fast?

There is no need to ride quickly. Ride as slow as you like and as feels comfortable for you. If you feel like stopping for rest mid-way, then do so. If you find that your lowest gear is not low enough for a hill, just get off and walk to the top.


Links to other threads

viewtopic.php?t=129138 - 20st. mid-20's Beginner "cyclist" looking for advice on where to start

viewtopic.php?t=112265 - Recommend a bike for a heavy novice

viewtopic.php?t=130644 - Best Bike (very) Overweight

viewtopic.php?t=130698 - About bike shops for big people?

viewtopic.php?t=131002 - Wheels for big guys

viewtopic.php?t=137312 - bike recommendations for a fatty

viewtopic.php?t=115399 - Cycling to lose weight

viewtopic.php?t=143050 - Type 2 Diabetes & Cycling

viewtopic.php?t=146163 - Heavy Rider

viewtopic.php?t=146999 - Recommendations for 60 year old returning to cycling

viewtopic.php?t=147763 - Tyre replacement for 25 1/2 stone, 6'5' chunk

viewtopic.php?t=130472 - Recommendations for novice 115kg female

viewtopic.php?t=137522 - Bike recommendations for tall heavyset man

viewtopic.php?t=139582 - Coronavirus: GPs to prescribe cycling in new obesity strategy [BBC News]

viewtopic.php?t=139655 - Trying to find a suitable bike at 27st?

viewtopic.php?t=139984 - Starter Bike for (Very) Overweight Woman

viewtopic.php?t=122904 - My London to Brighton experience

Pizza Man's threads:

viewtopic.php?t=15164 - 28 Stones, Heaviest person to do LEJOG?

viewtopic.php?t=16258 - Finished, Now 27 Stone…. - now with pictures!

viewtopic.php?t=45865 - I am on TV and radio today …. East Midlands or online. - [http://news.bbc.co.uk/local/nottingham/ ... 357514.stm]

[Jamesh]

That is a really good summary of the benefits and summaries of cycling for overweight people.

I think its worth taking it forward seeking further discussion drafting and illustrations , and seeing if someone in the NHS thinks its suitable for publication?

Jonathan might have suitable leads ....

I'm not sure if public health England / nhs has a publications department. I'd be surprised if they didn't?

We have local resource libraries where you can go and pick up such as leaflets.

Just a thought?

[freeflow]

A good attempt but, imho, two significant flaws.

1. Lots of assumptions about what a person already knows. It has to be written from the perspective that the reader knows nothing about bikes.
2. It's written more like a report that a third party will use to help an overweight rider choose s bike rather than advice directly to an overweight person (too much passive tense etc)

[Jdsk]

Great idea. Congratulations on getting it started.

It needs something at the top on what's in and out of scope.

That would then determine whether it should include:

* Suitable clothing

* Discussion of helmets

* Training courses

* Finding support groups

Those aren't anything special for people who are overweight and want to start cycling but they're very important for everyone who wants to start cycling.

Jonathan

[Jdsk]

I'm not sure if public health England / nhs has a publications department. I'd be surprised if they didn't?

We have local resource libraries where you can go and pick up such as leaflets.

Lots of related stuff out there:

https://www.nhs.uk/live-well/exercise/

https://www.nhs.uk/live-well/exercise/p ... er-adults/
... includes cycling

https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/obesity/treatment/
... includes finding local resources

Jonathan

PS: Public Health England was abolished during the outbreak. We're waiting to see how this pans out for this type of public health.

[Jdsk]

1. Lots of assumptions about what a person already knows. It has to be written from the perspective that the reader knows nothing about bikes.

Yes. That should be clear in the scope.

Jonathan

[Jdsk]

At some point it needs to discuss what can be expected in weight loss, fitness and other benefits with and without dietary intervention. It's for a lay audience but that doesn't mean that it shouldn't help a reader to find the evidence.

Jonathan

[Bonzo Banana]

It should be pointed out Halfords typical weight limits for adult bikes excluding most folding bikes is 120kg for the rider, 20kg luggage and a total weight including bike of no more than 160kg. Decathlon seems to have a weight limit across Europe of 100kg total load for most of their bikes however there is something weird going on on the UK side possibly because we are typically heavier in the UK so sometimes they state 120kg total load (rider, luggage, accessories, bike) and sometimes 100kg like the rest of europe for total load. So there could be 60kg difference. It should also be pointed out Decathlon have had a huge amount of frame recalls.

The original comment made it sound like they were similar but in fact there is typically at least 40kg load difference possibly 60kg.

I'd say its relatively easy for someone up to about 160kg to get a working bike. I'd go for a rigid high tensile steel mountain bike. This type of thing.

https://www.evanscycles.com/brand/muddy ... ike-938435?

Change the rear wheel for a double wall 36 spoke wheel with freehub and fit a 7 speed cassette and 7 speed shifter or just replace the rear axle of the standard wheel with a hardened chromoly axle. i'd also replace the wheel caged bearings with loose bearings.

The reason steel is the frame material of choice for heavy riders is it warns the rider of failure before it fails feeling soft etc.

I feel the best readymade bike suitable for heavy riders is Halford's Carrera Subway. It's a mountain bike with a rigid fork that Halfords sell as a hybrid for some reason.

[nez]

Bonzo banana wrote <<I'd say its relatively easy for someone up to about 160kg to get a working bike.>> I agree. Also it's difficult to imagine the British are heavier than Swedes and Bavarians. I think the weight limitations are an attempt to protect the supplier, not the rider - they are massively conservative. Having said that the one exception might be rear wheels. It's not difficult to bend and break spokes in a cheap and poorly made rear wheel. I used to do it as a young man - 16 stones at the time and a very steep hill to our house. But I've the feeling that would be way below the weights the OP is thinking of and certainly way below 160kg.

[GrahamJ]

I think it is better to refer to the rider as very heavy, not very overweight. A short woman could be very overweight without being particularly heavy, while a tall man with lots of shopping could break wheels without being very overweight in the medical sense.

I think you are really dealing with two (overlapping) groups of people: those who want to know how to choose a bike which will carry a lot of weight, and those who are starting cycling from a very low level of fitness.

[mumbojumbo]

Ca a short,fat man be deemed not heavy?I would prepare in following way

1.ride a tandem with a child of limited weight
2.start eercising in general
3.alter diet to incorporate whole foods
4.begin cycling on flat roads and tracks
5.stop smoking,drinking etc inc use of narcotics
6.set targets for 2,3 and 5.

[Jamesh]

It should be pointed out Halfords typical weight limits for adult bikes excluding most folding bikes is 120kg for the rider, 20kg luggage and a total weight including bike of no more than 160kg. Decathlon seems to have a weight limit across Europe of 100kg total load for most of their bikes however there is something weird going on on the UK side possibly because we are typically heavier in the UK so sometimes they state 120kg total load (rider, luggage, accessories, bike) and sometimes 100kg like the rest of europe for total load. So there could be 60kg difference. It should also be pointed out Decathlon have had a huge amount of frame recalls.

The original comment made it sound like they were similar but in fact there is typically at least 40kg load difference possibly 60kg.

I'd say its relatively easy for someone up to about 160kg to get a working bike. I'd go for a rigid high tensile steel mountain bike. This type of thing.

https://www.evanscycles.com/brand/muddy ... ike-938435?

Change the rear wheel for a double wall 36 spoke wheel with freehub and fit a 7 speed cassette and 7 speed shifter or just replace the rear axle of the standard wheel with a hardened chromoly axle. i'd also replace the wheel caged bearings with loose bearings.

The reason steel is the frame material of choice for heavy riders is it warns the rider of failure before it fails feeling soft etc.

I feel the best readymade bike suitable for heavy riders is Halford's Carrera Subway. It's a mountain bike with a rigid fork that Halfords sell as a hybrid for some reason.

The words of Brucey I feel!

[Bonzo Banana]

Bonzo banana wrote <<I'd say its relatively easy for someone up to about 160kg to get a working bike.>> I agree. Also it's difficult to imagine the British are heavier than Swedes and Bavarians. I think the weight limitations are an attempt to protect the supplier, not the rider - they are massively conservative. Having said that the one exception might be rear wheels. It's not difficult to bend and break spokes in a cheap and poorly made rear wheel. I used to do it as a young man - 16 stones at the time and a very steep hill to our house. But I've the feeling that would be way below the weights the OP is thinking of and certainly way below 160kg.

I think you have to factor in weight capacity is not static. Aluminium frames and forks fatigue over time so when new it has a high capacity but 7-10 years in its down to a very low capacity typically depending on the weight of the rider and how much use etc. If you buy a Btwin bike with a 100kg total load rating but ride it with a load capacity in total of 130kg you may find the frame fails in the third year as a sort of random expectation. I think the typical certification testing is based on a lifespan of 7-10 years normal use up to the maximum load capacity. I don't think it was any surprise that when Btwin recalled their rockriders it was only for the largest frame size which had a very high failure rate because larger frames are much more likely to have heavier riders on. Also factor in a Decathlon bike might be lighter than a typical Carrera bike at Halfords. Many cyclists would see this as a positive but, a weaker frame, weaker forks, less spokes or thinner gauge spokes etc would not be appealing to a heavier cyclist. Cyclists are typically lighter than the average weight person but whether new cyclists are is another question. Over time cyclists may achieve a better weight but may not start that way.

We are heavier than Germans as well as being slightly shorter on average too but taller than US and Australian males who are also heavier.

[Bonzo Banana]

It should be pointed out Halfords typical weight limits for adult bikes excluding most folding bikes is 120kg for the rider, 20kg luggage and a total weight including bike of no more than 160kg. Decathlon seems to have a weight limit across Europe of 100kg total load for most of their bikes however there is something weird going on on the UK side possibly because we are typically heavier in the UK so sometimes they state 120kg total load (rider, luggage, accessories, bike) and sometimes 100kg like the rest of europe for total load. So there could be 60kg difference. It should also be pointed out Decathlon have had a huge amount of frame recalls.

The original comment made it sound like they were similar but in fact there is typically at least 40kg load difference possibly 60kg.

I'd say its relatively easy for someone up to about 160kg to get a working bike. I'd go for a rigid high tensile steel mountain bike. This type of thing.

https://www.evanscycles.com/brand/muddy ... ike-938435?

Change the rear wheel for a double wall 36 spoke wheel with freehub and fit a 7 speed cassette and 7 speed shifter or just replace the rear axle of the standard wheel with a hardened chromoly axle. i'd also replace the wheel caged bearings with loose bearings.

The reason steel is the frame material of choice for heavy riders is it warns the rider of failure before it fails feeling soft etc.

I feel the best readymade bike suitable for heavy riders is Halford's Carrera Subway. It's a mountain bike with a rigid fork that Halfords sell as a hybrid for some reason.

The words of Brucey I feel!

Brucey sounds like a very wise man.

[tippo12]

Very late to the party on this one, but with 65 years of tandem and 60+ years of solo riding under my wheels as an ex rugby and basketball player, average about 120kg for the last 30+ years so I have knowledge of this specialist subject rather than the assumptions and conjecture of most experienced, typically lightweight, cyclists.

Rule 1 is forget warranties. Tandem manufacturers have fitted brakes on new tandems not warranted for tandem use since the subject was first mentioned 40 years ago. A friend had his old Dawes steel frame crack through while commuting, he had bought the frame new with a "lifetime" warranty so went back to Dawes, who told him a "lifetime" was 6 or 7 years, as agreed with the then CTC and cycle trade! Campag had an 80kg rider weight limit for warranty of all their components back in the 80s and 90s, I haven't checked recently since I don't buy carbon cranks etc but I guess it is the same or less these days. I have ridden this "unwarranted" campy kit for 30+ years, much of it hard usage over the alps on tandem - we had a place in Savoie for 20 years - but never had a campy part break.

Rule 2 is buy a quality frame made by a touring bike frame specialist, NOT made of alloy or carbon. Steel or ti lasts. I sold my parents 1953 tandem last year, steel frame still fine after 69 years of regular riding, never had a steersman on it under 18 stones in weight (My dad was 6'6" and bigger than me overall) and crew weight was usually at the 25+stone mark, plus at times camping luggage, children on crossbar seats, trailerbike, bob yak etc.

Rule 3 is spokes WILL break under heavier riders. UNLESS. My spokes hand broke consistently after stainless became commonplace, especially solo commuting, riding in dark and wet in cities - until I discovered Sapim strong spokes (in the 80s?) I build my own wheels, use a tensiometer by DT and have had only two spoke breakages in the last 25 years, both on on solo not tandem. I think having only 32 or 36 spokes on solo (Campy 10 sp) is the limiting factor, tandems I ride are all 48 or 40 spoke and have been 100% reliable apart from hub flange failures, but that is a whole other topic.

So from my experience, buy steel or ti frames and build with Sapim Strong spokes, then the overweight rider does not have extra bike maintenance and reliability issues more than a lighter rider.
One word of advice to e newbie larger cyclist - when struggling to keep in touch with the back wheel of the skinny's on the climb, you WILL fly past them on the descent - gravity works like that!