Or just very irritating when you're out to enjoy the sights and sounds of the countryside.......plancashire wrote: ↑26 Mar 2024, 9:46pm A noisy freehub can be a useful addition to a bell on shared-use paths, of which we have a lot in Germany. People recognise the sound. Pedal backwards for even more volume.
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- 27 Mar 2024, 9:09am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Noisy freehub - quieten with grease?
- Replies: 35
- Views: 1557
Re: Noisy freehub - quieten with grease?
- 16 Mar 2024, 1:45pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Tourer for gentle off-roading?
- Replies: 145
- Views: 6705
Re: Tourer for gentle off-roading?
I confess I haven't scoured the Web on modern componentry ( because I'm retrogrouch and it usually looks like overpriced faddy rubbish) but changing an old 26" MTB to drops seems costly and a bit pointless.
I'd never use combined brake/gear levers.Too expensive and too unreliable. Plenty of serviceable 2nd had parts about. ( If you frequently use the drop part of bars in the wind, we'll maybe, but I rarely do on my 700c tourer)
There seems a sufficient range of flat bar types and bar ends to get a good range of positions to set up for differing position. The Hooger Booger, which remains my main tourer and winter bike, is a MTB conversion that I've used off and on road since 1993. Its' done plenty of jeep tracks and unmade roads touring fully loaded. Good clearances (although if it got very claggy ....would need to remove the guards)
I don't really see that 700c or drops would have any real benefit for off road touring. My head thinks that balance would be more interesting when it gets cobbly and rocky?
- 14 Mar 2024, 3:21pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Bottom bracket size
- Replies: 35
- Views: 1149
Re: Bottom bracket size
+1 ( as geomannie says)
- 12 Mar 2024, 6:26pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Noisy freehub - quieten with grease?
- Replies: 35
- Views: 1557
Re: Noisy freehub - quieten with grease?
I asked a similar question on this forum some time ago. The shimano type free hub has pawls enclosed within the freehub....which muffles the sound. The type of freehub you have is presumably the type where the pawls are in more direct contact with the hub/ wheel which tends to amplify the sound.
You can use grease on pawls, but only if it's fluid enough not to gum up the springs. I use landrover swivel semi-fluid grease instead of oil on my Missus's noisy Mavic wheels' freehub. It's tomato ketchupy consistency. It does deaden the sound somewhat.....and has not caused problems with function
You can use grease on pawls, but only if it's fluid enough not to gum up the springs. I use landrover swivel semi-fluid grease instead of oil on my Missus's noisy Mavic wheels' freehub. It's tomato ketchupy consistency. It does deaden the sound somewhat.....and has not caused problems with function
- 10 Mar 2024, 6:32pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Sturmy Archer KB5 Trouble
- Replies: 13
- Views: 627
Re: Sturmy Archer KB5 Trouble
Spares always an issue with old hubs, so sounds a good solution for you.
(Worth checking if the KB5 gear ring is Non-NIG....as the Non-NIG's more robust)
(Worth checking if the KB5 gear ring is Non-NIG....as the Non-NIG's more robust)
- 9 Mar 2024, 5:52pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Sturmy Archer KB5 Trouble
- Replies: 13
- Views: 627
Re: Sturmy Archer KB5 Trouble
My recollection is that I ended up holding the LH part of the indicator in place ...but not fully in, but through the key and I think the RH springs' ferrule, before I put the grub screw in. I carried on holding the LH part in that position and then, when the grub screw was in, carefully pushed in and turned the RH part of the indicator until I could feel the threads had engaged. Having the springs tensioned seemed to be part of the difficulty I was having.
- 9 Mar 2024, 1:14pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Sturmy Archer KB5 Trouble
- Replies: 13
- Views: 627
Re: Sturmy Archer KB5 Trouble
If you do end up trying to 're-rig' AW style you won't have the benefit of the line on the indicator for setting the gears. 1935 seems to be the year they changed from No Intermediate Gear (NIG) to non- NIG, so yours may be either. If it is NIG you probably need to be more careful setting gears ( perhaps by marking alignments on the chain or indicator with the RH nut). I believe the clutches are relatively brittle and were more prone to chipping in the NIG arrangement. You can check which type you have by measuring the length of the gear ring dogs.....see attached which is from a document on K series hubs on the Hadland site:
- 9 Mar 2024, 8:02am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Sturmy Archer KB5 Trouble
- Replies: 13
- Views: 627
Re: Sturmy Archer KB5 Trouble
I can imagine.
If a new indicator can't be found, it may be possible to 're-rig' like an AW hub.......by removing (and keeping safely) the springs, RH springs' ferrule and retaining grub screw, from the axle and replacing the axle key with an AW key (ends filed down so flush with clutch carrier). I think an AW indicator will then fit. If so add an AW spring. The lock nut over the clutch has a somewhat rounded top.....so there might be some risk of the spring end splaying? ...so I'm thinking put a spring cover on both ends of the spring.
(Post war AW springs are not as strong as those in a K series and can be used with the trigger shifters as well as the quadrant and barrel shifter)
I don't know this will work....but worth a try if you have to wait a while to find a replacement indicator....
Good luck....and talk to/ whatsapp Vince at Colwood...as he will know.
- 8 Mar 2024, 10:39pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Sturmy Archer KB5 Trouble
- Replies: 13
- Views: 627
Re: Sturmy Archer KB5 Trouble
Could try asking Colwood Wheels.
https://colwoodwheelworks.co.uk/
Just about possible Vince may have some.....or can advise if any other can be made to work.
(I'm no expert....but I'm wondering if the problem was the axle key had rotated. When putting my K hub back together I recall the key kept rotating a little as the next bits went on and right hand spring was tensioned by screwing in the axle grub screw......... had about 4 attempts before the hole lined up......once the RH axle spring is in and tensioned the axle key is held pretty firmly in whatever rotation it is in......... as you know you need to be careful with this type of indicator and if the key hole is out of line...... well these thin indicators don't have much lateral strength)
https://colwoodwheelworks.co.uk/
Just about possible Vince may have some.....or can advise if any other can be made to work.
(I'm no expert....but I'm wondering if the problem was the axle key had rotated. When putting my K hub back together I recall the key kept rotating a little as the next bits went on and right hand spring was tensioned by screwing in the axle grub screw......... had about 4 attempts before the hole lined up......once the RH axle spring is in and tensioned the axle key is held pretty firmly in whatever rotation it is in......... as you know you need to be careful with this type of indicator and if the key hole is out of line...... well these thin indicators don't have much lateral strength)
- 4 Mar 2024, 5:20pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Classic Sturmey Archer (pre NIG) AW 3s hub; what to look out for, what breaks.
- Replies: 34
- Views: 2663
Re: Classic Sturmey Archer (pre NIG) AW 3s hub; what to look out for, what breaks.
I had read as you say above, and the only previous ref to an AW ramped clutch was yours ( up thread). However Colwood says that from 1937 to the end of the war ( I believe actually 1943 as they stopped production) that the hubs had what Colwood describe as ' prototype parts'. So the AW K505 clutch (unramped) with the wide rimmed clutch sleeve K503.....are not the 1st type....despite wot the Internet finds.Brucey wrote: ↑4 Mar 2024, 3:22pm
............ I have seen an example of K505 before, and I don't think it had those ramps. so maybe they changed it. K505 (and the associated wide-flanged sleeve) lasted until 1951, then K505A was introduced. K505A was another 'machined from solid' part, but had a smaller counterbore on the underside, to match a revised axle sleeve. In 1965 HSA117 was introduced, being a more cheaply made (but arguably stronger) pressed steel part. It has no counterbore and will therefore happily work with either sleeve.
- 4 Mar 2024, 12:38pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Sturmey archer anti rotation washers
- Replies: 9
- Views: 551
Re: Sturmey archer anti rotation washers
Spacers from a dead cassette can be used.
( If/where needed plastic spacers can be reduced in width by sanding on a flat surface)
( If/where needed plastic spacers can be reduced in width by sanding on a flat surface)
- 3 Mar 2024, 10:21pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Classic Sturmey Archer (pre NIG) AW 3s hub; what to look out for, what breaks.
- Replies: 34
- Views: 2663
Re: Classic Sturmey Archer (pre NIG) AW 3s hub; what to look out for, what breaks.
I think the clutch pictures I attached up thread are ramped essentially as the K series hub clutch is...except the K type clutch is only ramped on the top. I am relying on Colwood that this is the original ramped AW clutch.
The link below has a 1939 sales catalogue. Pg 26 has an exploded diagram with the original clutch and carrier....
http://www.sturmey-archerheritage.com/i ... -57.26.jpg
- 3 Mar 2024, 2:50pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: About swapping Sturmey-Archer 3-speed hub shells
- Replies: 2
- Views: 314
Re: About swapping Sturmey-Archer 3-speed hub shells
Old style AW inners definitely compatible with SRF3 shell.
Not so sure/need to check on BWR inners in SRF3 shell. Definitely the BWR shell is narrower/ slightly different& AW inners won't go in BWR shell.
Not so sure/need to check on BWR inners in SRF3 shell. Definitely the BWR shell is narrower/ slightly different& AW inners won't go in BWR shell.
- 1 Mar 2024, 2:30pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Sturmey Archer 5 speed Hub - Slipping gears
- Replies: 26
- Views: 2446
Re: Sturmey Archer 5 speed Hub - Slipping gears
I've not got around to this, but the Shimano bell crank can be drilled out and then re- threaded using a sacrificial AW axle as the tap to cut the right thread. To make the tap you need to cut/angle grind a groove on either side of the sacrificial axle....for the swarf.
If you google FW 5 speed conversion or the like.....you'll find stuff. Also see Facebook sa group.
On Brucey's approach........I had wondered if a v-brake noodle could be used to guide a bare cable through the drop-out .......you could drill the bent nail.....but would need an eye of some sort to secure cable end
If you google FW 5 speed conversion or the like.....you'll find stuff. Also see Facebook sa group.
On Brucey's approach........I had wondered if a v-brake noodle could be used to guide a bare cable through the drop-out .......you could drill the bent nail.....but would need an eye of some sort to secure cable end
- 26 Feb 2024, 8:41am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Raleigh frame number question
- Replies: 4
- Views: 531
Re: Raleigh frame number question
W = Worksop Carlton ( but Nottingham after 1981)
L= Edit: actually August.....not Dec as one might think.
7 = 1987 ....or 1977
000081 = 81st frame built that month
I think. See link to check
https://www.google.com/amp/s/dentoncycl ... ision/amp/
L= Edit: actually August.....not Dec as one might think.
7 = 1987 ....or 1977
000081 = 81st frame built that month
I think. See link to check
https://www.google.com/amp/s/dentoncycl ... ision/amp/