It definitely shifts into the big ring with my fingers.
It's basically new, barely 200km on it.
It's a Verenti Substance 2016, which I got very late in the season last year.
Search found 758 matches
- 15 Jul 2018, 10:10pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Sora Front Derailleur question
- Replies: 13
- Views: 922
- 15 Jul 2018, 9:16pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Sora Front Derailleur question
- Replies: 13
- Views: 922
Re: Sora Front Derailleur question
LinusR wrote:Vladimir wrote:In fact if I slacken off the lower limit screw completely, the cable fouls the derailleur, and almost seems to contribute to the problem.
Ah, my bad. I told you the opposite of what you should do. Screw the lower limit screw in too far and then attach the cable. Then unscrew it to the proper position. Sorry.
[edit] it should work perfectly by the way. There are some "trim" set ups to do to stop it rubbing the chain. See the manual page I posted before for instruction.
I can definitely see how it does work - the plate that holds the cable in place moves closer to the cable outer and you can get more cable through.
For some reason - despite this I still can't get the FD to shift onto the big ring.
I think I'm going to give in and take it to the LBS.
Its possible that the shifter itself is "wonky"...
- 15 Jul 2018, 9:03pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Sora Front Derailleur question
- Replies: 13
- Views: 922
Re: Sora Front Derailleur question
LinusR wrote:Vladimir wrote:In fact if I slacken off the lower limit screw completely, the cable fouls the derailleur, and almost seems to contribute to the problem.
Ah, my bad. I told you the opposite of what you should do. Screw the lower limit screw in too far and then attach the cable. Then unscrew it to the proper position. Sorry.
[edit] it should work perfectly by the way. There are some "trim" set ups to do to stop it rubbing the chain. See the manual page I posted before for instruction.
HA HA - Ok I'll go try it now before I put it back in the garage.
- 15 Jul 2018, 8:52pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Sora Front Derailleur question
- Replies: 13
- Views: 922
Re: Sora Front Derailleur question
LinusR wrote:You could try backing off the lower limit screw to give you more room to get the cable tight. Then adjust the limit screw back to the proper position. Usually grabbing the cable with a pair of pliers, puling it tight, and with the cable adjustment slackened right off, then re-tension the cable.
Thank you for taking the time to reply.
I tried just that - and no dice!
In fact if I slacken off the lower limit screw completely, the cable fouls the derailleur, and almost seems to contribute to the problem. I can't even get it to touch the chain "in attempting" to shift up to the big ring...
Really got no idea what is going on here.
Starting to think that the guys at Wiggle set it up to the best of their ability, and the crappy shifting that I got before is the best I'm going to get out of it...
Is it possible that the wrong FD was used on the CX frame or the wrong shifter perhaps?
- 15 Jul 2018, 7:59pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Sora Front Derailleur question
- Replies: 13
- Views: 922
Re: Sora Front Derailleur question
Hi everyone.
I'm still doing battle with this derailleur.
I just can't get the cable tension high enough.
From what I understand, it should be enough to simply pull it tight when it's in the small ring, tighten up the bolt and then it magically shifts into the big ring. Mine just doesn't do that.
The lower limit and higher limit screws are set fine, as is the height. The cage is parallel to the chain/chain ring.
Any tips (before I give in and take it to lbs) would be massively appreciated.
Thanks
Vlad
I'm still doing battle with this derailleur.
I just can't get the cable tension high enough.
From what I understand, it should be enough to simply pull it tight when it's in the small ring, tighten up the bolt and then it magically shifts into the big ring. Mine just doesn't do that.
The lower limit and higher limit screws are set fine, as is the height. The cage is parallel to the chain/chain ring.
Any tips (before I give in and take it to lbs) would be massively appreciated.
Thanks
Vlad
- 12 Jul 2018, 8:21pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Advice on lever pull on my mechanical disc brakes
- Replies: 5
- Views: 701
Re: Advice on lever pull on my mechanical disc brakes
Mr Evil wrote:The specs shows that it might have either 140 or 160mm discs fitted, depending on the year. Disc size has a significant effect on braking power, with 140mm being a bit wimpy.
Fantastic point. My handy pink ruler confirms that they're 160mm. so there's potential
- 12 Jul 2018, 1:09pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Advice on lever pull on my mechanical disc brakes
- Replies: 5
- Views: 701
Re: Advice on lever pull on my mechanical disc brakes
As always Brucey, thanks for the valuable info.
a) - fair enough, and this problem probably further compounded by the bike being a CX bike and as such - has fully enclosed cables, so extra places for it to rub. Would it be worthwhile getting new cables and ensuring the lubrication is top notch? I'm pretty sure I have a spare brake cable, and somewhere in the garage I have the fancy version of lithium grease (PTFE grease?).
b) - yes I was reading around the net and lots of people were saying this, so I have ordered some replacement pads. Sintered, I think. Was a little difficult finding ones that are compatible with Tektro Mira, seems they change the names every year or something? Either way they're in the post.
c) hopefully sorted out with new pads.
Thanks
Vlad
a) - fair enough, and this problem probably further compounded by the bike being a CX bike and as such - has fully enclosed cables, so extra places for it to rub. Would it be worthwhile getting new cables and ensuring the lubrication is top notch? I'm pretty sure I have a spare brake cable, and somewhere in the garage I have the fancy version of lithium grease (PTFE grease?).
b) - yes I was reading around the net and lots of people were saying this, so I have ordered some replacement pads. Sintered, I think. Was a little difficult finding ones that are compatible with Tektro Mira, seems they change the names every year or something? Either way they're in the post.
c) hopefully sorted out with new pads.
Thanks
Vlad
Brucey wrote:best to get someone else to ride the bike and see if the lever force is too high or not. Note that recent (launched post-2008) STIs pull more cable than older models, so require more force at the lever. There doesn't seem to have been a change in cable disc brakes to allow for this.
Disc brakes can be hard work because
a) the cables are not lubricated properly (very common on new bikes)
b) the pads are rubbish (ditto)
c) the pads are contaminated (ditto)
I think that BB7s ought to be a better brake but not that much better than well-set miras tbh. Condition, set up and pad type are far more important.
cheers
- 12 Jul 2018, 11:13am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Sora Front Derailleur question
- Replies: 13
- Views: 922
Re: Sora Front Derailleur question
Thank you for the reply.
I'm surprised, to be honest.
I'll be changing it shortly.
Thanks
Vlad
I'm surprised, to be honest.
I'll be changing it shortly.
Thanks
Vlad
- 12 Jul 2018, 12:22am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Advice on lever pull on my mechanical disc brakes
- Replies: 5
- Views: 701
Advice on lever pull on my mechanical disc brakes
Hi all,
So I've had a Verenti Substance since last year.
It doesn't get much use, mostly due to too many bikes; but another problem is one of classic operant conditioning.
Whenever I use the bike for anything other than very short rides, my index fingers hurt. It's from having to pull hard on the brake levers to operate the brakes as I want to. Mostly the pain is in the right index finger.
The levers are Sora, the calipers are Tektro Mira.
Questions is, what can I do about it?
If I upgrade the front caliper to a BB7, will that help?
TIA
Vlad
So I've had a Verenti Substance since last year.
It doesn't get much use, mostly due to too many bikes; but another problem is one of classic operant conditioning.
Whenever I use the bike for anything other than very short rides, my index fingers hurt. It's from having to pull hard on the brake levers to operate the brakes as I want to. Mostly the pain is in the right index finger.
The levers are Sora, the calipers are Tektro Mira.
Questions is, what can I do about it?
If I upgrade the front caliper to a BB7, will that help?
TIA
Vlad
- 11 Jul 2018, 11:57pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Sora Front Derailleur question
- Replies: 13
- Views: 922
Sora Front Derailleur question
So I'm having a little trouble adjusting my SORA front derailleur.
First basic question, which side of the pin does the cable go on? The bike came with the cable on "the outside" of the pin (position 1 in pic).
It seems to me that the cable should run between the pin and the bolt, under the metal plate (position 2 in pic).
Ever since I got the bike, the chain rubbed more and more the closer I got to "big ring, small sprocket". I don't spend a lot of time there, so the impetus to adjust it wasn't that big. I kept meaning to get round to it.
Now I've been trying to make it tight enough that it doesn't rub on "big, small", but I'm finding it difficult.
I'm gonna get my 3rd hand tool out of the garage and try again tomorrow.
But in the meantime, I would appreciate it if you could answer my question and/or point me towards a handy youtube video that might explain front derailleur setup process properly.
The bike a cyclocross bike, and it's a compact chainset.
Thanks
Vlad
First basic question, which side of the pin does the cable go on? The bike came with the cable on "the outside" of the pin (position 1 in pic).
It seems to me that the cable should run between the pin and the bolt, under the metal plate (position 2 in pic).
Ever since I got the bike, the chain rubbed more and more the closer I got to "big ring, small sprocket". I don't spend a lot of time there, so the impetus to adjust it wasn't that big. I kept meaning to get round to it.
Now I've been trying to make it tight enough that it doesn't rub on "big, small", but I'm finding it difficult.
I'm gonna get my 3rd hand tool out of the garage and try again tomorrow.
But in the meantime, I would appreciate it if you could answer my question and/or point me towards a handy youtube video that might explain front derailleur setup process properly.
The bike a cyclocross bike, and it's a compact chainset.
Thanks
Vlad
- 23 Sep 2017, 9:48am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Brooks B17 colour question
- Replies: 5
- Views: 895
Brooks B17 colour question
Hi all,
I rather fancy the saddle in the picture, but haven't seen such a light colour for sale.
Anyone know what it would be called?
I rather fancy the saddle in the picture, but haven't seen such a light colour for sale.
Anyone know what it would be called?
- 9 Sep 2017, 1:26pm
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: Far too good to be true
- Replies: 43
- Views: 12206
Re: Far too good to be true
MarcusT wrote:Vladimir wrote:MarcusT wrote:There is zero corporate information, not so much as a phone number. And you ask if it is a scam?
There no need to be a twit about it though!
FYI it came up on Facebook a an ad and I was on my phone so I simply posted a link and asked a question.
I obviously suspect it's a scam.
Manners cost nothing...
Apologies, not my intent to mock you. Perhaps because I see so many of these fly by night operations that make a few thousand then disappear.
Gaz, Thank you for finding that page, I was expecting to find it on their home page, or About or FAQ or contact. Tried to research the corporate number and got no results. Direct Bikes has a different address and corp number, plus they have a phone number.
Fair enough. Cheers.
- 8 Sep 2017, 9:54am
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: Far too good to be true
- Replies: 43
- Views: 12206
Re: Far too good to be true
MarcusT wrote:There is zero corporate information, not so much as a phone number. And you ask if it is a scam?
There no need to be a twit about it though!
FYI it came up on Facebook a an ad and I was on my phone so I simply posted a link and asked a question.
I obviously suspect it's a scam.
Manners cost nothing...
- 7 Sep 2017, 10:38pm
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: Far too good to be true
- Replies: 43
- Views: 12206
Far too good to be true
What do we make of this, then?
Surely it's a scam?!
http://eurpop.com/index.php?main_page=p ... ucts_id=98
I totally want one, though!
Surely it's a scam?!
http://eurpop.com/index.php?main_page=p ... ucts_id=98
I totally want one, though!
- 23 Jul 2017, 10:50am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Soaking a chain in petrol
- Replies: 27
- Views: 4815
Re: Soaking a chain in petrol
The same thing happened to me - after the "petrol treatment" my drivetrain became rather grumbly and creaky.
On closer inspection - it was because the whole thing, especially the chain and sprockets were badly worn.
The dirt and grease on chain and sprockets was actually acting as a "dampener" of sorts and covering up the incongruencies between the two. Once I got all the grime off - there was nothing to hide the fact that both were badly worn.
(what can I say, it was my first bike and also I decided it was a good idea to use lithium grease as a chain lubricant. don't ask...)
HTH
Vlad
On closer inspection - it was because the whole thing, especially the chain and sprockets were badly worn.
The dirt and grease on chain and sprockets was actually acting as a "dampener" of sorts and covering up the incongruencies between the two. Once I got all the grime off - there was nothing to hide the fact that both were badly worn.
(what can I say, it was my first bike and also I decided it was a good idea to use lithium grease as a chain lubricant. don't ask...)
HTH
Vlad