Cycling UK Forum

I've built up a couple of pairs of kinlin xr31s - rim thickness seems to compare with the archetypes. c. 1.6mm and they're just weighing in at sub 500g. they're tubeless compatible but gp4000s can be fitted by hand.

Worth the investment - and i'm 'careful'!
mine has small dimples after 10k miles, maybe a little spread, but no where near the extent of an unlaced B17 after similar mileage (even a good one).
it's comfortable enough to go totally unnoticed - the mark of comfort imho.

GB do a cheaper option than problem solvers.

Brucey wrote:Everyone knows that rims wear out .....cheers

interesting reading - thanks

I assume the torque spec' varies with how/if the thread has been lubed (dry, oil, grease, anti-seize etc..) is a c. 20% tolerance enough to cover this?

i'd want to disassemble at least once a year to check the condition of the steerer anyway, so repacking the bearings whilst it's in bits is a no brainer..

maybe an error by one of the algorithmic ebay re-pricer tools?

are you 100% certain it's the front hub and not the notorious mavic squealing freehub bush?

531colin wrote:Ovalising tubes makes a huge difference to the relative stiffnesses; I reckon its worth about a gear on my Elan compared to my round-tubed tourer.

that's very interesting. worth a gear in relation to what - speed, flex?
thanks

don't do it!
if by some miracle they are actually returned, they will be dirty, blunt, empty, damaged or broken...

are the metal bridges designed to fit recessed brake bolts?

gxaustin wrote:My Open Pro rim collapsed at a thickness of 0.9mm.

that's food for thought. I'd settled on 0.7mm as a safe minimum

Thanks Mark. That is bloody brilliant! I've probably spent 10+ hours scouring the internet and trying to figure it all out. What confused the hell out of me was the two rear derailleur gears on the Brompton and how to factor that into traditional gearing apps. From the chart, a 38T might be the way...

see HERE
c. 6.5 & 20 mph

some of graeme obree's bikes are also set up like this.