Cycling UK Forum

BTW - after my last rounds of posting and pics, many pages ago, I put another 600miles on my alfine 11. It started making funny noises and then second gear went. I was fed up of the finnickyness and fine tuning of the 11 speed. Shimano replaced the hub, which I sold on. I went back to an eight. Bombproof, in my opinion.

@rfryer: looks like the genesis cable end bolt is from an alfine 8. the 8 shifts to a higher gear as the cable tightens, and the cable wraps clockwise around the cassette joint. The 11 shifts to a lower gear as the cable tightens and wraps anticlockwise around the cassette joint. Hence the bolts are drilled to produce a mirror image. Very curious that they should provide you with the wrong one.

In both systems the cable end bolt should be affixed to the cassette joint with the nut facing outwards. with this genesis one are they asking you to fix the nut facing inwards perhaps? I didn't think this was possible but it would be a suitable bodge.

Yes, get shimano gear cable and outer, same stuff that you would use for derailleurs. Get metal barrels either end preferably and all will be well.

The 8R25 hubs didn't have very good seals. That hub has had water in and I think it will take some work to get it going again as Brucey says.

The 8R36 hubs have better seals and are the same internals and seals as the alfine 8 speed. The hub shell is pitted so I would go with a new hub and get it built in if possible. Otherwise the internals from the new hub can be slotted in without the rebuild as I believe the shells are the same. If it is a Carrera you'll need the Nexus with the roller brake fitting. Rose bikes have the 8R36 hub, sprocket, shifter, cable and new cassette joint for £110 delivered to the UK. You should be able to find someone to build it into the wheel for £30-50, unless you are happy to do it yourself.

I have a Nexus red band (8R36) and alfine 8 and 11 speed hubs. The nexus and alfine 8 are identical, with the exception of the hub shell. If you are wanting or considering disc brakes ever, then go for the Alfine 8. If it matters not then the Nexus 8 will be fine.

I wouldn't go for the Alfine 11 until Shimano sorts out the reliability. I have mine working but the 8 speed hubs are so much less hassle. If going for a Nexus only the 8R36 models and up have the seals and bearing/clutches sorted to be as good as the alfines. I had an 8R25 once and that let water in eventually.

Yes, it is. I have used them interchangeably.

Furthermore, please don't go spending nearly £60 on a service kit from Shimano (that's without any oil!). There's a chap on eBay selling a homemade version. I bought one and it works perfectly, did an oil change recently with no problems. The oil port is an improvement on the 8 speed hubs.

Link to eBay item
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-Alfine-11-SG-S700-hub-oil-maintenance-kit-oil-optional-beats-TL-S703-/271065007938?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f1cbbc742

breakwellmz wrote:Can you fit two sprockets on an Alfine,like you can with a SA,rather than have a double chainring?

If you could it would be a bespoke job. The sprockets are dished and you can run them either way round according to chainline requirements. Theoretically there is room but you'd have to get a fancy double sprocket made, both sharing the same central plate, there is only room for one sprocket on the drive side of the hub itself. Easier to go double chainring!

A decent cameraphone could be an option? Nokia N8, smartphone and 12mp camera all in one pocket. You have to like Nokias, though they're leaps and bounds ahead of 1-2years ago. 808 pureview beats just about any point and shoot on the market but it's a tad dearer than an N8.

If you are sticking it on a double ring at the front I would go with the 8 speed alfine, rather than the 11. Again refer to my and others musings in the alfine 11 long term reliability thread. The 8 speed is much less fussy to adjust in my experience of both, and using a double at the front you will have plenty of range. It is also cheaper, less than half the price like for like for a full setup The alfine 11 is really designed so that only one chainring is required as it has such a good range.

As for the minimum chainring/sprocket chatter, it is only a recommendation from shimano, rather than a warranty voiding lower limit.

I have only 1000 offroad miles on an alfine 11, so far so good but I don't have a crystal ball and can't say what the next 9000 will bring, hopefully it will be good news. I have however 10000 on and off road miles on 8 speed hubs and all is well so far. Much much better longevity and far less hassle than any derailleur system I have used - never again will I go back!

Rosebikes have the 8 speed for £140 delivered. Thats the hub, shifter, cassette joint and sprocket!

I have used the Proporta Beachbuoy whilst off-roading. works well but a little fiddly to get on the bike. Can also be worn around the upper arm more easily. Totally waterproof and have used it for my Nokia N8 for underwater shots. Only thing I can foresee is the S3 is huge.

Anyway, review here

http://www.allaboutsymbian.com/reviews/item/14649_Proporta_BeachBuoy_Bike_Mounte.php

I am running an Alfine 11 speed on a 29er MTB with 32t on the chainring and 22t on the sprocket. No problems after nearly 1000miles on very demanding uphill terrain. Shimano recommends a ratio of 1.9 (chainring to sprocket) but does not specifically forbid going lower. I am running 1.45.

Re removing the wheel - the Alfine 11 speed cassette joint is better than the eight speed. There is now a great big thumb lever to introduce slack in the cable so that the cable can be removed. The eight speed one ideally needs a small allen key to rotate the cassette joint. Other than that you will need to always carry a 15mm spanner to undo the wheel nuts - no quick release available. Personally I never remove wheels to repair punctures, i just slip the tube out on the non chain side and patch. Catastrophic failures of course are not possible this way! Now I'm running tubeless MTB tyres things are even better!

In addition, there is another thread here http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64432 now into its 7th page, the upshot of which is that adjusting the alfine 11 to run perfectly in all gears can be more of an art than a science! I however do have mine running perfectly. Just bear this in mind before forking out!

Re: twin chainrings and chain tensioners, you may find the 400% range is fine enough just to run a single chainring. If your trike frame has an eccentric BB or sliding dropouts then a tensioner will not be required at all.

Finally, Rosebikes in Germany do the alfine 11 hub, the shifter, the cassette joint and sprocket for just under £300. Then just find a wheelbuilder to put it in for you, unless you are happy to build your own.

@ jfarnhill, how did things go with a replacement hub? Any progress?

I have had no problems with the leather on the B17s. I have always used the proofhide. My issue is surrounding the seat rails, snapping within two years of ownership. I have two bikes with B17 specials on, both have suffered seat rail snapping. That is however another issue.

It may not apply to you but if you have lots of bits lying around, or an unused 26" bike with a large frame, On-One are doing a frame sale at the minute. I just built my 10y old son a 26" bike using a 14" Inbred frame that I picked up for £120 new. That and a few hours in the shed scored him a "new" bike with quality parts. He loves it, but it only worked because I had all the bits on an old 21" framed MTB with a cracked old frame. The inbred is a touch heavy for a kids bike some may say but it is steel and last ages. he hasn't complained so far and gets up some impressive gradients! He loved helping to build it too. On-One also do a frame/fork package.

Recently 20% off inbred frames with the code UK20BRED, don't know how long it lasts for. That was emailed to me on the 20th Aug