Cycling UK Forum

If this is all off the bike, could you possibly (wrongly) use the tips of a pair of long nose pliers instead? The long nose will reach further in than the proper peg spanner.

How's about trying a shoe stretcher in combination with a hot air gun. Worked for me on my Shimano shoes. I was having trouble with my left toes complaining by the lunch stop until I eased out the little toe side of the left shoe. I guess my left foot is wider than my right.

There is a black variety of CA adhesive (superglue) which has rubber particles suspended in it. It was developed specifically to bond rubber to steel in suspension components; worth a try on tyres. Inflate fully, apply adhesive, deflate - leave for a few hours. NB CA adhesive needs water vapour to c...

When I was commuting, I now realize I used to not worry too much about the chain or cassette until something didn't work :oops: . Now I'm retired, have more time and have read this book https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everything-need-about-Bicycle-Chains-ebook/dp/B00O46YUW0/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=bicycle+chai...

+1 on the BIG nut/bolt/spring washers diy removal tool on the Sheldon Brown link. I don't think any amount of rust could resist that used with a socket set and extension tube!

p.s. Plus Gas A works much better than WD40

Short answer- often yes, they are, as they use the modern 10/11 speed type riveting. Try to source an 8 speed chain where the pin riveting is not a complete circular peening but rather a diametric deformation. Then you can un-rivet and re-rivet. Otherwise you’ll have to use a quick link as the remov...

fausto99 wrote:

Mick F wrote:What happens if it's a new saddle?

You can sit on the saddle and feeling where your sit bones are, stick some tape down the sides level with them. Get off and tape across, then draw a line. The nose position is completely arbitrary.

Mick F wrote:What happens if it's a new saddle?

You can sit on the saddle and feeling where your sit bones are stick some tape down the sides level with them. Get off an tape across then draw a line. The nose position is completely arbitrary.

Has anybody found any reliable way of measuring saddle Fore/Aft so if you get a position on 1 bike that's really comfortable and is friendly to your knees etc. you can easily replicate it on another bike and also where do you measure from / to on the saddle ... the nose or the rear. I've tried usin...

Have to say I disagree with JB re Al oxide. I had success getting a seized Al seat post out of a steel mtb frame using ammonia.

scottg wrote:There is a fine assortment of chainsets were you pick out your chain rings
to fit your fitness.
Sugino OX series, White Industries, Easton EC90 and Rene Herse come to mind.

Provided your wallet is deep

Thanks

AG3 dynohub? I'm probably being dense but I don't know that one. I've only come across a GH6 dynohub. Someone enlighten me please. Is there a pdf out there in www-land?

NEvans wrote:Watched the video, excellent. Also thought the trick of using toe straps useful.

Wide re-useable plastic cable ties (ty-raps) work well too and are cheaper and lighter than (leather) toe straps.

To remove (or replace) tyres, you need to hold the tyre bead in the well of the rim most of the circumference....its this which gives the slack to get the first (or last) bit of bead over the rim. If necessary, tie the tyre into the rim with string, toestraps, or whatever comes to hand. On you tube...