Cycling UK Forum

Shimano also do flat bar levers for "road" gear mechs, 9s in Sora is the only choice (in the 2021 line up),
SL-R3030 RAPIDFIRE PLUS Shift Lever (3x9-speed).
Whether you find any available is another matter.
There will probably be NOS previous years levers available from some retailers, in more choices than Sora.
The good news is that flat bar levers are usually a lot cheaper than STI drop bar levers.

I suspect braze on front mechs are the preserve of the road racing community, so (probably) not made in ATB flavouring.
Swapping ATB/road front gears is always hit and miss, the mechs are designed for a specific chain line (ATB and road are 5mm(?) different). Using the wrong chain line for the mech can mess up the indexing as the shifting arms are not quite on the right part of their swing.
Also, ATB front mechs won't be made for a 50t outer, which may throw things out again. So if you give it a try, you'll have a few things in the mix, each of which will not help your indexing.

Edit. Useful info on the post written while I was writing.

The TA Axix sounds a bit like the old Stronglight 650/651 units (the "sleeve" is concertinered plastic as far as I remember), you screw in/adjust the cups in the same way you would a cup and cone BB. I have a 650/651 (which ever the steel axled one is), it is about 40 years old. I have a vague recollection I might have replaced the bearings after a round the world trip 30 or so years ago - the bearings were fine, but one of the inner races that sat on the axle had a hairline radial crack in it.
In case you are wondering, I have had it out since then, so hopefully not siezed in the frame!

I got round to dismantling the RHS/drive side of the BB, it is the same construction as the left side.
So it looks the same construction as your usual bog standard 2 cartridge units plus a sleeve. Inner part of LH bearing cartridge still on the axle, the RH bearing cartridge is still fully stuck in the RH cup

The brown bit in the midle is the inner diameter of the RH bearing unit.
Not really visiable in the photo, the ring spacing out the balls in the cartridge looks bulged at one point - probably explains why I had to grip the axle with grips in oder to rotate it round.

As far as I am aware, the bike was just used around town (cheap Viking (modern) racer).
Loads of new decent bikes (Trek, Specialized) come with similarly constructed BB units. While I have seen quite a few develop play (wear) over time, I heve never seen a near new one self destruct like this one. If you want touring longevity, I'd look else where!
My hunch would be FAG/SKF/Stronglight/TA/new old stock UN 5#/7#

Often the wheel size is stamped on the rim, though if too much rust, the size markings might be hard to see.
Anyway, Raleigh Esprit, the odds are 26 X 1 3/8" tyre size/590mm rim diameter (diameter where the tyre sits in the rim).
Plenty of that sized tyres about new/still manufactured.

Over the years I must have seen hundereds if not thousands of bikes with sealed Shimano UN XX square taper BB units. On a few occasions I have seen them with play in the bearings (usually on a very old/wellused bikes).
Hopefully the newer UN300's etc last as well, though on a low sample count (I doubt I have seen that many bikes with the new design BB unit in), I wonder.
A UN 300 about 2 months old came to me very loose in the LH bearing. It had been fitted/used on an old racer about town as a runabout (no mud guards...).
I was asked to replace it, so removed it, the photos show how it came out.
LHS bearing was very rusty, all broken up, I think some balls must have gone missing as there didn't seem that many. The outer half of the LH bearing unit didn't stay on the bearing/axle, but came out stuck in the LH cup.
The RH bearing was very stiff, I needed a spanner/grips on the axle to be able to rotate it.
As far as I can tell, the 2 black plastic rings sat each side of the LH ball race. It looked as though these were the seals to keep the rain out.
Part of the rusty metal detritus suggests that there was a bearing cage holding the balls in place, such rings are well known for breaking up and ruining bearings.
So my initial assessment would be they are far less durable than he old models

Some recent items at work.
How to save money on bike assembly:- The bike must have passed the assembler, quality control, PDI and sales person. Customer said geting the rear wheel out was a real faff!

A customer asked to have their front wheel centered ar the bike veered to the right. The wheel was very slightly off center (not that you would notice unless told). However, the customer referred to nearly going into oncoming traffic it was so stiff. I adjusted the headset, loose and tight at the same time, it wouldn't adjust - usually a sign something is a miss (bike was new, online purchase, Raleigh Pioneer - usually these bike are fine), ...
This is how the top race came out
Just for good measure, some of the free balls escaped and slipped down between the fork column and head tube, jamming the forks off center, I only just managed to get the forks out with some persuasion, fortunately the resulting scoring marks were minimal....

Yes, it is a backwards hanging rear gear that is fitted to Dahon and Tern folding bikes. Best to try Dahon/Tern dealers, or a retailer doing folding bike spares. (Dahon/Tern, different companies, but same family owners!)
There is a dealer I think I Malmsbury that my local bike shop uses for Dahon spares https://foldingbike.biz/
If the debris of the rear gear has a model/part number stamped (possibly on the back), try googling the model/part number.
The Tern linked to has a direct mount on the frame for the rear gear, the gradada one linked to seems to fit at the dropout with a plate.
Hope this helps.

I assume the shimano 7700 levers you plan are bar end levers (hence your ref to internal diameter), 7700 levers come in various forms as well as bar ends.
Drop bars have a bigger outer diameter than flats/buterfly bars, my guess is that the butterfly bars would thus be too small internally.

Bar end levers on those bars could ergonomically be awful (?), plus the cable run ends up pointing outwards, so big wide curves (or use 90 deg noodles?).
One option might be to try some bolt on bar ends on the handle bars (not necc at the end) and mount the bar end levers in the end of the bar ends.
You have the same issue of finding if the bar ends will take the bar end shifters of course. In my experience, shops often have an accumilation of short stubby bar ends, so you might get some cheap. Fitting bar end levers into bolt on bar ends has been done before, often on tribars, so it can work

I expect the Pendleton official website is the Halfords website, as Pendleton is a Halfords brand.......
You could take the surviving (top) half of the hanger to a better bike shop, they might have one, or they might give you a big poster with lots of hangers on for you to choose which one to order. The poster would be similar to the link referred to by Simon. They don't list Pendleton, but lots of makes use the same factories and patterns.

Also Wheels Manufacturing https://wheelsmfg.com/derailleur-hangers.html I once counted about 250 different patterns on their website.

At least the on line lists have some search function, eg number of fixing bolts for the hanger.
Brands often periodically change factories from one year to another, so a given Pendleton bike model in one year might not have the same hanger pattern in another year.

Sunrace ok if you can find any.
My whole saler/importer (for work) has no 7/8/9/10 speed sunrace (save a few narrow ratios), last time I asked about delivery dates (to the whole saler), they said Sunrace had refused to give them a delivery date.
I expect a shortage due to Asian lockdowns, and probably the bike manufacturing companies are getting what is available.

It might partially depend on you.
A friend has 170/172.2/175 cranks on 3 bikes, moves from one to the other quite happily, even though he has shorter legs than me.
I rode (still do) 170 cranks since for ever. Got a bike with 175 cranks. I just could not get on with them. I set the saddle height from the bottom of the down stroke, (so the "same height"), but as the cranks were longer, the top stroke always felt as though the saddke was too low. I replaced the 175's with 170's, fortunqtely the saddle just moved back the requisit 5mm.

As mentioned up thread, altering the crank lenght alters the fore - aft position of the saddle (knee over pedal spindle in forward pedal position). If you are moving the saddle back and forth, you might want to be also moving the hadle bars back and forth by the same amount. On the other hand, 2.5mm, you might not notice at all.

What gear levers does the bike have?
That gear is not index compatible with anything except similar vintage Suntour gear levers due to the cable pull. I have a recollection that the lower end Suntour gears mech were not compatible with higher end Suntour levers (and vice verca, possibly), all to do with where the free play was built in (gear mech or lever) I think.
All from memory of my then boss making a comment in the late 1980's/early 1990's.
If you can't get correct lever, then friction (not indexed) levers will work.

Also check;
The gear/gear hanger (mount) is not bent, the gear tension arm should be vertical (when viewed from behind) when the bike is vertical (so not parallel with the spokes or seat stay).

If you remember resolution of forces, and moments (forces, not time) from your school days, cantilevers are no problem at all.
We once had a new person working in the shop, he always struggled with setting up cantis, then months later, 1/2 way through a job he suddenly said "I've got it", there after he found cantis a doddle.
I would agree that V brakes are easier (unless your rack strut conflicts with the rear noodle of course.....).

Update.
We have not tried new pads yet. I filed the old pads back to new material, then ran the pads in (repeated (24 or so times) soft application of brakes, releasing before completely stopping). The brakes certainly improved a bit after that.
I then rode my bike (Mk 1 (wide) XT cantilevers) and thought they were a lot better than the Spyre discs.

My design that shoud be binned, torturously routed through down tube via the BB and through the chainstay internal gear cable routing.
I know there is a knack having done it, but have the designers of these ever had to replace one of these cables (particularly when corroded after water has run down hill from the rear drop out)?