Search found 129 matches

by David
11 Mar 2023, 6:14pm
Forum: Cycling UK Topics and Discussions
Topic: cycleclips blacklisted
Replies: 9
Views: 5460

Re: cycleclips blacklisted

This week's cycleclips hasn't turned up either. The good news is that I can find no rejections in the mail logs so it could just be that they haven't processed the message yet.

Alternatively, they could have removed me from the mailing list :lol:
by David
11 Mar 2023, 6:06pm
Forum: Cycling UK Topics and Discussions
Topic: cycleclips blacklisted
Replies: 9
Views: 5460

Re: cycleclips blacklisted

Mike_Ayling wrote: 6 Mar 2023, 2:38am Have you contacted CUK about the matter?
Yes. And had a response saying they were looking into it.
by David
4 Mar 2023, 3:54pm
Forum: Cycling UK Topics and Discussions
Topic: cycleclips blacklisted
Replies: 9
Views: 5460

cycleclips blacklisted

Hi,

Has anybody else stopped receiving cycleclips ? I've not had the last two issues and would like to know if it's affecting anybody else.

I had a look through my mail logs, it appears that the service that CUK are using is blocked by a spam block list. I have NO intention of whitelisting the sending server, CUK should be using a reputable mail supplier, reputable suppliers DO NOT get black listed. CUK should also be aware of the problem (reputable suppliers will report to them the number of rejected mails...) and taking action to mitigate it.

FYI, the offending log entry :-
2023-02-26 08:43:22 H=mail10.gbr.pb-dynmktge.com [51.140.147.9] X=TLS1.2:AES256-GCM-SHA384:256 CV=no F=<b-2_pgbr1_0c5f9-30621ee8d46a440cb9d4dae3fad0aa11@bouncing.cyclinguk.org> temporarily rejected RCPT <xxxxx@domain.name>: deferred because 51.140.147.9 is in a black list at recent.spam.dnsbl.sorbs.net

I never had a problem all the years they were using e-activist.com, it's only since they started using the new mail service in July last year and this doesn't bode well.


D
by David
9 Apr 2020, 6:20pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Clicking from Bottom Bracket
Replies: 4
Views: 396

Clicking from Bottom Bracket

I've a SRAM GXP bottom bracket with SRAM Force 2 hollow crankset.

I got a click about 1500 miles ago, at first I thought it was just the cleat so I cleaned and added a bit of grease. The clicking continued. So I checked the pedal and also the retaining bolt torque - all fine. In the end I removed the crank, cleaned the bearings and re-assembled. Click sorted :D

Yesterday, it started again.

Is 1500 miles about right for this - I'm used to sealed BB units that you just throw in and forget about for the life of the bike. 1500 miles is getting into the cup cone and cage territory for service intervals.


D
by David
25 Jan 2020, 6:00pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: SA front drum brake conversion
Replies: 64
Views: 4144

Re: SA front drum brake conversion

cycle tramp wrote:I have to say that this hasn't been my experience. I've been using them for 3 and a bit years, the drum brakes have got stronger, and there's been very little wear - indeed I've only had to tension the brake wires once ir twice to take up the stretch... even better during that time I've suffered no wear to my wheel rims.


That's what I was expecting too. I bought the hubs, rims and spokes and built the wheels myself after the bike's orignals had worn the rims through. I wasn't willing to braze a couple of lugs on to the frame/forks for disc mounts so the drums ticked all the boxes - out of the weather, not likely to get contaminated with grit to wear, long lasting, ready supply of brackets for the frame, no rim wear, lower maintenance. Add the dynamo and the 5 speed wide range rear hub and you end up with a brilliant commuter machine.

Two winters was a big disappointment.
by David
25 Jan 2020, 3:32pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: SA front drum brake conversion
Replies: 64
Views: 4144

Re: SA front drum brake conversion

Brucey wrote:FWIW if you don't have a little lube on the cam then the brakes can fail to release fully. Other than that the experience related above I'd describe as 'atypical'. A high wear rate suggests that the brake were dragging all the time or that the brake shoes were contaminated somehow; they will certainly wear quickly if the shoes are contaminated with oil.

Remember that these brakes were designed to meet a requirement that the shoes should last five years of daily use by a postman. There are not many uses which are more strenuous than that, but there are various things which might cause the brakes to perform less well than anticipated.

cheers


No, it was all clean & definitely not dragging. I was surprised at how quickly the brakes went off and needed replacing. I was also surprised at how little wear there was on the shoes when I replaced them. I also got almost no dust out. It was only the front brake I had problems with, the back brake - apart from being a bit weak was fine from a serviceable perspective.

I replaced the front shoes about 18 months because of them jamming on. The new shoes didn't make a big improvement and TBH I couldn't see a big difference in the thickness of the linings. The new shoes lasted about 6 months before they started snatching on and I decided to call it a day with them.

I think you are probably right about this being atypical - I went the drum brake route because I was pretty sure the PO Pashleys wouldn't use them if they were useless. I was expecting 5 years trouble free life from them but the front brake just wouldn't play. Maybe the Posties don't use them in winter on salted roads :D

I eventually scrapped the bike and built a new one but fitted disc brakes - these work fine but I did contaminate the pads and junked them after about 200 miles, the replacement ones have been good for over 1500 miles so far.
by David
24 Jan 2020, 3:55pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: SA front drum brake conversion
Replies: 64
Views: 4144

Re: SA front drum brake conversion

I did this several years ago.

I wouldn't do it again.

I found the front shoes wore quickly - they didn't last as long as a good set of pads.

I had to strip the whole thing down after one winter because the cam siezed and the brakes wouldn't release.

After a certain wear point, the front brake would "servo" on and I would have to rock the bike backwards to free the shoes. Worse still, it would snatch and lock the front wheel solid just before coming to a gentle stop and I'd have to do an emergency unclip - I normally try to ride smoothly, am light on the brakes and try to avoid dabbing my feet down (I love track stands 8) ) so having the brakes lock on was a big headache for me.

The brakes didn't improve much with age. They were adequate but still outperformed by a good set of pads.

The rear brake was always gentle, it would lock the rear wheel if lightly loaded but with heavy panniers it was incapable of locking the wheel.

I tried different advantage levers to see if it would improve but no real joy.

I did like the five speed hub and the dynamo but they were both let down by the brakes.
by David
6 Feb 2011, 9:02pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Sturmey Archer X-FDD braking problems
Replies: 16
Views: 4639

Re: Sturmey Archer X-FDD braking problems

Trigger wrote:Do you (or anyone else) have any experience of the coaster brakes in the rear hubs? I just wondered how they compared to a standard rim brake and whether they're adequate enough combined with a front drum?


Not the coaster brake but I'll be building a 5 speed with drum brake rear - hopefully this week. It will be replacing a cheap and tatty rim V braked rear wheel. I must admit to having an over powered rear brake so it will be interesting to see how good/bad a rear hub is - especially as I've been relying on the rear brake a lot while trying to get the front hub brake bedded in.

I'm sure HGF will give more pertinent advice.

Regards,



D
by David
6 Feb 2011, 4:47pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Sturmey Archer X-FDD braking problems
Replies: 16
Views: 4639

Re: Sturmey Archer X-FDD braking problems

For assembly, I greased the pivot, removed the cam and greased its bearing surfaces and spindle (taking care NOT to strain the spring) , the faces between the shoe pivots and the face where the starlock fits. These were all greased with a copper based grease :-

Cleaned and greased brake plate &amp; pivot
Cleaned and greased brake plate & pivot

Greased cam
Greased cam

Shoe bearing surfaces with grease
Shoe bearing surfaces with grease


finally, fit the starlock - use a small socket spanner for this, take care not to press it too hard, it wants to just touch the surface of the shoe body :-
Using a socket to replace the starlock
Using a socket to replace the starlock

I was able to get the washer on using thumb pressure alone.

Finally, re-assemble the brakeplate into the hub and refit to the bike and cable up.

The brake is now starting to work well though it will take several miles to bed in fully - it won't tip me over the handlebars and it's not as good as high power v-braks but it's more than adequate for commuting.

If you are going to simply service the brake yourself without replacing the shoes, you should only need a starlock washer, a bit of time, some copper grease, and a few basic tools.

The pivot shaft measures 7.84mm - which is very close to 5/16". Old Bike Trader supplies starlock washers or you can get them from Ebay, look for starlock and you want either 5/16" or 8mm. I'd recommend replacing the washer every time.
by David
6 Feb 2011, 4:31pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Sturmey Archer X-FDD braking problems
Replies: 16
Views: 4639

Re: Sturmey Archer X-FDD braking problems

Hi,

as a final followup, the brakes are now working fine. I don't think that the problem was wholly due to worn shoes, however I fitted a new pair of shoes just in case and when they are worn out, I'll try fitting the old shoes again.

I ordered the shoes from Old Bike Trader and the part number didn't match the current parts list from SA however the shoes were suitable. The main difference betwen the old and new shoes is the thickness of the actuator cam - you need to replace the shoes with the cam as a set. The new cam is slightly shorter so you don't need the thick spacer washer.

Before removal I measured the diameter of the shoes an three places (trailing Cam - pivot, centre-centre and leading cam - pivot) and the old shoes were 69.93, 69.42 and 69.52 mm in diameter respectively and after assembly, the new shoes were 70.07, 69.94 and 69.86. This shows that there was a little over 0.5mm of wear at the centre point which I don't think is a lot.

I had serviced the brake about 150 miles ago - before the snow and the winter gritting started. I'd serviced it because the brake had started to lock on. I removed the brake plate and removed the cam so I could clean and lubricate its faces and bearing shaft. Due to the construction of the brake, it's difficult to remove the cam without damaging the pivot starlock washer so I removed the cam by rotating it by 90° then opening the shoes a bit more by using a carefully selected nut and bolt as a jack. I was then able to remove the cam and clean it up. It was stiff in the housing and after cleaning and greasing, I released the shoes and found the mechanism much better and the brake worked fine.

I think that my service above was a major factor in my brake problems because it over-stressed the the shoe return spring. When I compared the old shoe spring with the new one, the old spring was a lot more powerful. The area of the spring was the same but the distance between its jaws was different suggesting that I'd stretched it beyond its limit. After riding in the snow and getting hit with road salt etc. the cam and pivots started to seize up and the return spring didn't have enough force to pull the shoes back away from the drum so the brakes were sticking on.

I still don't think they have worn very much - but watch this space for when I have similar problems.

Anyway, back to the service. Below is a pic of the new shoes (I also ordered a spare starlock just in case) :-

Brake kit + extra starlock
Brake kit + extra starlock


After removing the brake plate, I was surprised at how badly corroded the inside of the drum was - there was a lot of aluminium rust in the drum and on the shoes/mechanism. The pic below is after I had given it a clean - believe it or not, the hub was shiny not too long ago - the winter salts have really take a toll on it :-

Cleaned up drum
Cleaned up drum


To remove the old shoes, you need to remove the old starlock on the pivot. If you are lucky, it will come of in one piece, if not it will break and you will have to use a new one. I'd advise safety goggles at this point. I couldn't lever the starlock off so I used a screwdriver and tapped it with a hammer. This got the washer off but it pinged a great distance. If you don't have eye protection, cover the washer and screwdriver blade with a piece of rag to absorb the energy :-

Removing the starlock from the pivot
Removing the starlock from the pivot


You should be able to remove the shoes from the pivot and plate now. Mine were corroded on and took a bit of levering with a screwdriver to get them off. I didn't use any release oil because I wanted to see what was underneath, YMMV :-

Shoe and corroded pivot
Shoe and corroded pivot


after I had removed the shoes, the pivot looked like this :-

Pivot showing corrosion
Pivot showing corrosion


Everything was cleaned down - use a wire brush, wire wool and fine emery to clean the surfaces then re-assemble.
by David
30 Jan 2011, 10:06pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Sturmey Archer X-FDD braking problems
Replies: 16
Views: 4639

Re: Sturmey Archer X-FDD braking problems

I've got some pics & other stuff to upload but it's way past my bedtime.

Manyana.



D
by David
30 Jan 2011, 10:05pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Sturmey Archer X-FDD braking problems
Replies: 16
Views: 4639

Re: Sturmey Archer X-FDD braking problems

hubgearfreak wrote:do you know of this shop?

http://www.oldbiketrader.co.uk/

and please do keep us informed, with pics please. :D

good luck


I had seen OBT a while ago and forgot about him. Anyway I decided to give him a try and all I can say is "What a gent". Very helpful and knowledgeable, I ended up buying a X-RD5(W) 5 speed hub) as well as a 70mm brake service kit. I was going to buy the hub from SJS but figured that OBT was more than worthy of my business :)

The brake kit came in a genuine Sturmey Archer box that looks as if it's been on the shelf since the 1960's and has "Genuine Sturmey ARcher Spares" and "Made in England" - I think the box is worth more than the parts :lol:

If you could buy nostalgia, it would come in a box like this :-
Box Lid
Box Lid

Box End
Box End



Good old fashioned service - nowt wrong with that :D


Regards,



D
by David
17 Jan 2011, 9:45pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Sturmey Archer X-FDD braking problems
Replies: 16
Views: 4639

Re: Sturmey Archer X-FDD braking problems

Thanks for the replies.

I remember it happening on my motor cycles too - but I used to get a lot more than 2000 miles out of shoes :(

Individual spares seem to be non-existent for this hub - SJS Cycles do the whole brake plate with torque arm and shoes fitted for £38, they also do a 'service' kit for £24 which is just the shoes, spring, cam, washers and starlock.

I don't want to go that route just yet. I'll strip it again at the weekend and try swapping the shoes over so the leading and trailing edges are swapped and see how that goes.
by David
16 Jan 2011, 8:50pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Sturmey Archer X-FDD braking problems
Replies: 16
Views: 4639

Sturmey Archer X-FDD braking problems

Hi,

can anybody tell me what the expected life of the brake shoes is ? Mine has done just short of 2000 miles and the shoes have started to grab quite severely (I'd say they were self servo assisted). When I pull the front brake at walking pace, the bike stops dead - and I mean dead enough to lift the back wheel so as you can imagine, I'm a bit reluctant to use them at 30+mph on fast downhills on wet roads :shock: Once the brake is locked, I can undo it by pulling the lever hard and letting it fly back a couple of times or I can get off and push the fulcrum back to normal. When it happened today, I was at traffic lights and had to de-clip and rock the bike back and forth to free them.

I thought the problem was due to general neglect so I serviced them a couple of weeks ago and greased the pivots and the cam shaft and it did seem to improve the situation, however it's gone back to its old tricks today and the camshaft seems a bit stiff too and is reluctant to return so it may need re-servicing. I've checked the cable and that moves freely - lubricated it with PTFE spray instead of grease because that was too thick in the cold and causing lots of drag.

Annoyingly, I was just thinking that the brakes were starting to bed in :(

Regards,



D
by David
12 Feb 2008, 11:28am
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Sturmey Archer Dyno Hub & Brake
Replies: 1
Views: 572

Sturmey Archer Dyno Hub & Brake

Hi,

Got one of these for Christmas, much better than the old Shimano I was using esp. as the bearings were well past their best.

I was sat on the sea front yesterday and noticed the cable was loose at the hub lever so took out 6mm (1/4") with the hub adjuster. I think this is due to cable stretch (fitted new cables when I fitted the wheel), however it is possible that the cable could have jumped out of the housing and I would have been without a front brake when I need it most so beware.

I've done about 200 miles with this setup and the brake is nowhere near as effective as the V-Brakes I swapped out - the wheel rims don't wear though !!!. I was hoping the brake would have seltled down by now but it still seems too wishy washy for me (I certainly couldn't do the stoppies that I was able to do with the V-Brakes) and I'm considering changing the lever for something that will give a bit more well "leverage" - the current levers are for V brakes so may not be the best, before I do go this route, has anybody any experience of these hubs and their braking performance and can you still buy levers for flat bars that aren't for V brakes ?



D