Cycling UK Forum

Well, Bike Factory has never emailed me back as above.
Recycle in Surbiton have said they'll have a look at the freehub to see if it's worth having anything done to it.

Mick F wrote:Once the bearing is out, you will see the code number etched on it. Buy new bearings, these people are good.
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.php

Just been pricing up bearings. For the Eastons, I need 2x R6RS, 1x 6902 & 3x 6901. Rubber seals, would prefer stainless bearings.
Simply Bearings total is £36.63
AK Bearings total £22.46
qbikes88 on eBay £29.97
Bearing Shop UK is cheap, but doesn't have the R6RS.

Anyone ever used AK Bearings?

(My eBay bike sale fell through, so there's no rush here until I eventually get funds from that.)

gaz wrote:Fulcrum RT-013, £34.99.

Weirdly, that one has external pawls, so it's not that one, thanks. Unless they've used the wrong photo?

EDIT: have emailed them to ask.

Thanks again. Ummm...how can I confirm what the freehub is please?

As mentioned, the specs of the wheelset don't match any of the Fulcrum documents for 5 or 7 (the pawls are exposed). However, now I've managed to get the freehub off the wheel, it resembles the Racing Sport's RT-013. Can't find it for sale online though.

http://www.fulcrumwheels.com/system/doc ... -03-14.pdf

Thanks Brucey, you were right.

Today, I popped to Greenford. On advice, I had a go at the NDS hex in the vise...and promptly broke my not-cheap hex. Used one of their Park Tools, and with ominous noises (everyone in the room looked around, and there were a few gasps), it came loose.

Yay!

Or not...the freehub is borked. I was hoping the excess movement was a bearing in the hub, but it's internal and that 11mm still won't shift. I'm going to give up on that for now, unless I can find a cheap replacement hub.

No pics this time, I've done a video instead. Don't watch it, it'll probably be the most boring five minutes of your life...

https://youtu.be/xMUXw5GSnjI

In better news, the Eastons are in pieces and just need a six new bearings and patience to re-fit everything.

Keezx wrote:The part between the bearings is a spacer and can be pushed aside so there is plenty room to place your screwdriver or whatever. Push in with a socket which fits the outer ring.
You don't need any specific or expensive tool.

Not so for these wheels/hubs. Nothing would move at all.

merseymouth wrote:Hi there, If the axle comes out why not pull the bearings out? Use a Rawlbolt to make a puller, slide hammer style! Not difficult to create. The slide hammer I use is simply a weight from a set of scales with a hole drilled through it. TTFN MM

It wasn't possible to get a non-expanding puller in behind the bearing, as the bearing on the other side was still in.

Mick F wrote:They're not in tight, they aren't an interference fit, just a good firm fit.
You don't need slide hammers or special tools, just a small hammer and a drift. Tap, tap, tap, and they come out easily.

Brucey's point about boiling water is a good one. I'll bet they almost fall out if you do that. I must try it.

The lack of a decent purchase for the drift was the biggest problem.

I'll definitely be freezing the bearings and heating the hubs to re-install.

Thanks all.

Update: I managed to borrow a bearing puller from a clubmate.

First, while I was at his place we set to on the Easton EA50 SL freehub.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/102104766 ... 995860846/

Using the puller, it took two of us to get the bearings out. The inner bearing was seized so solidly, the inner ring didn't move at all. However, it should clean up and if the bearings aren't too scarred, I'm tempted to try regreasing/reinstalling as they're not that old.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/102104766 ... 399430364/


Moving on to the Fulcrum 5.5 freehub, I thought I could just pull out the DS bearing. Wrong - the puller was too wide to get inside the DS bearing.
So, I took the NDS bearing out (very, very tight - took ages by myself), fed through a 5.5mm socket (with shoulders, and used part of the puller as a punch to force it out.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/102104766 ... 399428954/

It came out with two taps. Success...I thought.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/102104766 ... 021847955/

I fitted an 11mm hex and tried to unscrew it. No joy. I hit the hex with a hammer, sprayed GT85 around, tried an old seatpost. It won't shift, at all.

Interestingly, the NDS also fits a 12mm hex, but this won't unscrew either.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/102104766 ... 020400252/

Tomorrow, I'm off to a local workshop, hoping to use one of their vises.

Thanks to everyone so far.

Valbrona wrote:Buy the right ones and you might only need two bearing removers. But they ain't cheap.

I've been looking at the most troublesome bearing on the Fulcrum 5.5s, and there's hardly any angle or 'ledge' at all to sit a screwdriver, hook, drift or key onto. In fact, the inside of the hub is nearly as narrow as the bearing - I've tried an exploratory screwdriver, and it just won't stay in place as I hammer. I'm tempted to buy something like this, but not sure I can justify it:

https://youtu.be/27YCUMzKcfE

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00O ... R4NQ5RTAPW

I do have a third set of wheels (Fulcrum 7s) that would probably benefit from a new drive side bearing sooner or later, or at least a removal of the freehub to give it a service. Now, those I really don't want to **** up.

These are the two other options:

Drift punch technique:
http://www.hopetech.com/how-to-videos/# - click on Hubs then either of the first two videos. (That's a proper bloke for you.)
I can't find a drift punch like the one he uses, only these cheap drift punch sets:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001 ... O5BC7ARBQP

Woodruff/half moon key technique
https://youtu.be/1YfBoroIc_A
Budget option - an old axle plus woodruff key:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/METRIC-WOODRU ... 0787092856

Regarding reinstalling bearings, I was going to use the old bearings and the QR technique the Easton guy uses?


It may depend on how much my vintage steel Tiger goes for on eBay later...

And yes, with the mileage I do in the weather I do it, my aim is to get a nice handbuilt pair when I can afford them.

gaz wrote:Suntour TA-340 is a very simple version of a bearing extractor tool.

How does that work please?

gaz wrote:Getting them out is the easy bit, with the right tools.

Great.

borderghost wrote:Do many bike whels use these type of sealed bearings? I guess its saves worrying about over tightning the cones etc, are these sealed bearing wheels only found on high end bikes?

One set are the OE Fulcrum 5.5s, the other Eastons. I don't think either set were worth much over £200 when new, if that.

The Mavics and Shimanos I've replaced previously were both loose bearings.

Thanks Paulatic.

Unfortunately, that technique won't work as the axles aren't shouldered.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/102104766 ... 314863604/

I'm all for the 'taking everything off', but when I'm not at home, I don't have my tools.

Therefore useful tools I have are:
a pack of baby wipes (not Huggies)
two old toothbrushes tapes together so the bristles face
lube

I baby wipe the chain then run the chain through the toothbrushes which cleans it enough.
I take the rear wheel off, and run wipes in the channels between the sprockets, it takes a minute and brings them up lovely.
If it's been a filthy ride, I'll also wipe the rims down along with the rest of the chainset. And inspect the tyres for flints/glass etc.

That's usually enough until my next 'proper' clean.

I have two wheelsets that need cartridge bearings drifted out and replaced. LBS quotes I've had are more than the wheelsets are worth. None of the axles are shouldered.

I've researched what tools I need and watched multiple videos. There appears to be four main techniques, each requiring different tools:

- bearing extractor - I'd need to buy several for all the different sizes
- expanding drift - I can't find one of these for less than £60, and again, I'd need different sizes
- woodruff/half moon key and punch - possible but would have to work out the size keys needed for each bearing
- drift punches & hammer - possible

Bearing in mind I have a very limited budget, the latter two options look the most practical. I've been looking at Amazon, eBay and tool websites and am just getting more and more confused. Would a £10 pack of drift punches do the job(s)?

Does anyone have any recommendations please? Budget is £20 or less (as I'll need to buy bearings too).
Thank you.

I've had the same thing happen a few times - the valve is now my number 1 suspect for any flat tyres at home.

(Please let me know if there is a thread which already covers this.)

I've been looking at some secondhand bikes on Gumtree and eBay etc which I strongly suspect are stolen - e.g. just Google 07960930284: four bikes, two names, loads of credible reasons for sale - and tried to check them out, looking for a corresponding stolen notice, or even a vague description. Three of them also say they have proof of purchase.
(Many of my friends with kosher bikes wouldn't be able to produce their manuals or pop!)

There's so many websites, it's a difficult job to check them all. If I go to see a bike, apart from relying on gut instinct, how can I check comprehensively to see if it's stolen. I want to be able to enter a description and/or frame number and feel confident it's no one else's darling.

Also, I've registered my bikes with bikeshepherd and immobilise.com including the frame numbers, and will be off to get them marked which I believe is covered by bikeregister? Does this do any good?

Thanks.