Cycling UK Forum

For what it's worth, I just weighed my 1960 Mercian 'Superlight'. It's a track/TT bike, fitted with a front brake, 36 spoke clincher wheels with wire bead tyres, and a Brooks Swift saddle. The weight: 8.7kg

According to Mercian's 1963 brochure, it's possible with 28 spoke track wheels fitted with lightweight tubulars to get the weight down below 8kg. Not bad for something over 50 years old!

Interesting! I do have a spare KMC B1S in 1/8" format, so I'll give that a go - thanks.

Sorry for bumping an old topic. I've recently got hold of a 1956 Carlton Flyer track/path bike, which whilst being fixed gear, has a chainring and sprocket that's designed for 3/32" chain. Does anyone know where I can get hold of a bushed 3/32" chain in the UK?

I see that Wippermann do the 'Connex 7R8', which is 3/32" and bushed, but there doesn't seem to be anywhere in the UK that sells them? If not, I'll get a few from here: https://www.bike24.com/p272583.html

Ralph Brazier lived around the corner from me, and whilst I didn't know him personally, a number of my friends did. The Dittons Velo cycling club (who he rode for) have already had to close their Facebook page owing to people posting speculative and anti cyclist rhetoric on it, and it is a great shame when online discussions start to victim blame. His wife read some of the comments before the page was closed, and it hasn't exactly helped matters. The local community have been pulling together to help the family, and at this stage, we'd all rather the dust settled before jumping to conclusions as to the exact circumstances surrounding the death. Despite what has been written in the press, it is by no means certain that the pothole concerned actually caused the accident, and we await the results of the investigation.

If a standard lockring removal tool, of the sort that you'd use for a traditional bottom bracket, or fixed gear sprocket lock ring doesn't work, I'd suggest using a hammer and flat headed punch. The lock ring should not be under a great deal of torque, and this should get it moving without any damage.

This is my commuting bike. In 30 miles a day across central London, in the dark, riding over broken glass is unfortunately inevitable. Perhaps going up a size might be a good idea. I did 2000 miles over autumn on Conti Top Touring tyres (the supple mid 90's version, with no puncture protection), and I had no punctures or cuts on them in that time. They are 27 x 1 1/4 though, so a 32mm width. Last winter, I was riding on Continental SportContact II tyres, again in 32mm width, and had no punctures or cuts.

So it seems to me that the problem is that these tyres are just too soft/lightweight for commuting, especially in these dark winter months where glass avoidance is impossible. I can't say I like Gatorskins, but they may be a better idea.

The only problem with wider tyres though is that these rims (Exal XR1) only have a 13.4mm width:

So... another tyre, another cut. This one's only got about 800 miles on it. Note the slight bulge, and tufts of tyre cord sticking out:



Looks to be terminal again.

What are the forum's current recommendations for economically priced tyres in 700x28c size that are reasonably durable, but not too heavy? My philosophy is that I'd rather repair a puncture every 1000 miles or so than to ride round on heavy tyres like Marathons.

Are Conti Ultra Sport II tyres any good?

I refer you to the work of Jobst Brandt, where he mentions that stress relieving was being used back in the 1950's, but nobody quite knew why it worked:

http://yarchive.net/bike/stress_relieve.html

I've just completed my first wheel build too, also using Exal rims from eBay, but in my case the Exal XR1's. Found the whole process thoroughly enjoyable. Borrowed a Park truing stand from a club member, and trued to within 0.5mm or so. Good enough for me. I've been riding them for a couple of weeks now (250 miles), and they've remained within this tolerance, with no clicks or pinking, so I'm hoping that all is good.

So someone on another forum has asked TFL if there's a TRO in place:

Dear Sir

Thank you for your feedback form dated 24 November 2015 with regards to the ‘no cycling’ sign on the Blackfriars underpass.

I'm sorry for the slight delay in my response. I had passed your enquiry on to our Road Space Management team for comments.

We can confirm that the signage is advisory only. As there is a contraflow within the westbound bore of the Upper Thames Street tunnel, the sign is placed to indicate to cyclists that it is suggested they take an alternative route for safety reasons at the current time.

We are currently on site building the East-West Cycle Superhighway which will improve cycle routes along this corridor. The work is ongoing and the route is expected to open in 2016.

I hope you find this information helpful.

Thank you for taking the time to contact us. Please contact me again if you need any further assistance.

If I go out on a club run at this time of year, I'll be on my 1986 Pearson, with 6x2 speed non-indexed drivetrain, with Simplex retro-friction shifters. Many people have pointed out that it makes an excellent 'winter bike'. I then point out to them that it's the same bike as I ride in the summer as well.....

Now for me though, I commute about 30 miles a day, and that really hammers bikes. Whilst I've done 2500 miles of commuting on the Pearson this year, I wouldn't want to ride it at this time of year, what with the muck and salt on the roads. Last winter, I used a dynamo light equipped 1980's Dawes Galaxy, which makes an excellent steed (2000 miles ridden through last winter on that one), but this year, I've moved over to fixed gear.

I'm now using a 1977 Dawes 'Chevron' 'beater' which was given to me by my neighbour as a decrepit heap. 2nd hand wheelset and chainset from eBay for £30, and it's served me fine for the last 1700 miles, despite it's 15kg weight (inc Carradice on the back). I must say however, that I'm getting increasingly physically tired using it, what with the constant SW wind we've been having for the last month or so. I'm currently running 42x15, which is 76 gear inches on the 27" wheels that I'm running, but I may gear down to a 42x16 (71 gear inches). The only problem with this is that whilst it makes the climbs easier, it makes the descents much harder. Horses for courses.

Currently building up a 1960's Jack Taylor path frame. I'd love to start riding it it right away, but I'm getting worried about it getting trashed. Ironic, given that it was probably originally built for someone as a fixed gear 'winter bike'

Thanks for the advice. I'll treat the signs as 'advisory' going forward. There definitely aren't any bicycle in red circle symbols anywhere.

No doubt my ignoring the signs will annoy motorists though. Cycling in London can be frustrating at the best of times.......

On my morning commute, I have to navigate a tunnel on Upper Thames Street in London here:

https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@51.51104 ... 312!8i6656

This tunnel has two bores, one of which has roadworks. Traffic has therefore been diverted to the one remaining bore, leaving a contraflow. Motor vehicle speed limits have been reduced to 20mph during these roadworks, by means of a lit amber notice.

In addition, there are signs in black and yellow stating that cyclists are not allowed in the tunnel, and for them to divert using a tortuous route round an amusingly named road called 'Puddle Dock', and Victoria street, adding significant time to the journey.

There seems to be no reason for this diversion, especially given the reduced speed limit, and I've noticed a number of cyclists ignoring it. Admittedly, the tunnel is not a pleasant place to be at the best of times, but the alternative involves about 4 junctions, and a switch to the other side of the road, which is highly inconvenient, if not more dangerous (as any junctions increase the potential for conflict, compared to a tunnel that by its nature does not have any)

My question is - are these signs mandatory, or can they safely be ignored in the same way as the 'Cyclists Dismount' ones that are often put up during roadworks?

Thanks.

Even with the SR Royal BB, all was not plain sailing. I measured it with my calipers at 106mm, so it was still a smidgen too long by my calculations for my purposes.

The vendor did not have the original cups, and so very kindly supplied me with a Tange cup and bearing set to go with the axle. These cups are 'thick walled'. All was fine on the fixed cup side, but when I tightened up the LHS crank, it fouled the cup. The solution was to use a spare 'thin walled' cup I found in my spares box to give extra clearance. The beauty of having the 'thick walled' cup on the RHS is that it moves the axle in by ~1mm, which is exactly what I was after to give me my 'perfect' 41mm chainline.

I hear you with the 'wailing and knashing of teeth'. These things are sent to test us, but when a solution is found, it's very satisfying!

Just to update everyone, my wanted advert came up trumps. 105mm SR Royal ISO Bottom Bracket from the same era as the cranks now fitted, and my chainline is perfect!

I thought I'd try a Wilko chain on my Fixed Gear bike, as they're only £2.99. After all, a chain's a chain, isn't it? They're made by Taya:

http://www.wilko.com/bike-parts+accesso ... vt/0343822

Fitted it on Sunday. Monday evening (30 miles in), I had to move the wheel back in the dropouts to take up the slack. I wasn't unduly concerned.
Did a reasonably punishing ride on Tuesday, taking in the delights of Ranmore Common and Box Hill, in drizzle, on mucky roads, fixed, with Carradice full of clothes and kit on the back, as I was working out of our Leatherhead Disaster Recovery Centre (which is just down the road from there). Noticed that things seemed a little slack on the climb up Box, but didn't think anything of it.
Yesterday evening (90 miles in), I was descending Dark Hill in Richmond Park at about 30mph, spinning furiously (as it's fixed gear), and the chain came off the cog at the back, locking up the back wheel. Not good at all. It's taken a few chunks out of my spokes, but fortunately, not breakages.
Remounted the chain, rode home, and the chain checker is showing it at 0.75% wear already. It appears to be made of cheese, and designed for BSO's or children's bikes. In fact, I would go so far as to say that it's not of merchantable quality, and I've got a good mind to be chasing Wilko's for the cash to get the damaged spokes in the rear wheel replaced.

I've learnt my lesson, and I won't be bothering with cheap chains in the future.