Cycling UK Forum

cycleruk wrote:How about a fraction of "toe out" on the front derailleur?
Theory being that the rear of the mech would push over the chain more before leaving the larger ring.

Just for info we tried this as well as some slight crimping on the front mech to "throw it over" a bit more but it wasnt the answer.

CJ wrote:

CREPELLO wrote:So you should be able to just replace the outer chainring then.

Heh, just spotted this. Nice that Gooders posted my reply, but he missed off my final paragraph:

It might work just to fit a new 10-speed outer ring to the existing chainset, but only if the extra thickness on the back of such chainrings stops short of the spider arms, which would then be the same thickness as those of a 9-speed chainset. Unfortunately for you, all my chainsets are triples and none of them 10-speed, so I can’t check this. My hunch is that will not work, since it’s not in Shimano’s interests to let you upgrade a chainset to 10-speed just by fitting new rings, since this is not something that people often want to do.

Anyone out there in posession of both 9 and 10-speed Shimano road double chainsets and a vernier caliper?

Sorry Chris I just read that post and was about to paste your last para when I saw this. For everyone else we bought a R700 chainset today and it shifts like a dream. CJ knows his onions

Thanks for the reply but I got the answer from Chris Jude below -

FC-4550 is a 9-speed chainset, so there’s a bit more gap between the back of the 50 and the teeth of the 34, than on a 10-speed chainset. It’s not that the chainring centres are any different, but the back of the 10-speed 50T ring will have a bit more thickness so as to make the gap too small for a narrower 10-speed chain to drop into.

When your 9-speed 50T outer was new, it also had enough stuff sticking out the back to kick the 10-speed chain out of that gap, as it de-railed and fell toward the inner ring’s teeth. The main role of that stuff, sticking out the back, is to grab the chain when you up-shift, so those pins and bulges etc. get worn, so now they don’t deliver such a good left kick to a descending chain, that consequently can more easily find its way into the gap between outer and inner. This happens most in the four outer sprockets, because then the chain is aligned more to the right already and needs that extra kick to make it fall to the left. The edges of the chain will also have been smoothed by wear, so it slips more easily into that gap.

This is a classic case of a mixture of equipment that works okay when everything is brand new, but exposes its fundamental incompatibilities once a bit of wear and tear has taken place. The solution, of course, is to obey the instructions of Mr Shimano and fit a chainset that’s really designed for 10-speed chain, e.g. FC-5650 (Shimano 105 34,50T).

My wife has a Ribble EM2 frame with the following set up.

Gear Shifters Dura Ace 10 speed STI
Front Mech Tiagra 9 Speed
Chainset Shimano Compact FC4550 50x34
Dura Ace 10 Speed Chain
Dura Ace 10 Speed Rear Mech 12 -27

Everthing has worked fine for about a year but in the last few weeks when changing from the 50 chainring to the 34 when the chain is in either of the four smallest rear sprockets, the chain does not engage the 34 but seems to rest in between both chainrings and the cranks just spin. It works fine in the 6 larger rear sprockets.

This as I have mentioned has only just started to happen. The front mech is aligned correctly and was changed for a 10 speed mech but the problem still occurred, and my local bike shop (hewitts) has looked at it and cannot fathom it out.

Your help would be appreciated

UrbanManc wrote:People get carried away with the first shout of 'bargain' , you can often find branded goods on sale that actually fit well and and dont cost much more than Aldi/lidl gear.

If you don't mind looking like a bag of rags on a bike then go for it

Yeah right, horses for courses mate. I bought the winter jacket and gloves for commuting. Bargain at 19 squid. Gong to work aint no fashion show for me.

noonoosdad wrote::D I commute to work every day, 365 days a year, Rain & Shine and carry my work clothes in two panniers.
I try to keep thinks like my shirt and trousers folded neatly to avoid getting them creased but always find that they do crease a bit.
Some recommend rather than folding items, roll items to stop creasing.
Anyone have a good tips on the subject please ?

You work every day, what do you do I leave my clothes at work, and just take underwear in and shower etc at work. Also I can wash shirts and iron them at work as well. I drive in every now and agiain to change them

piedwagtail91 wrote:hey gooders ,no hovis on here trying to flog you his old stuff
pretty sure it's the cable at the bolt, it was on randalls.

Mick you were right. cable attached wrongly at the rear end, anyway Dave's levers are over priced Thanks everyone else for your comments

Hi,

I have just taken my old Veloce 53x39 and bottom bracket from my winter bike and replaced it with a FSA 50x34 compact. I have lower the front mech and have no problems with it changing from the small to the big ring. I have shortened the chain and also replace the gear cables. The problem I have is that I cannot get it to index correctly. I have done it the usual way and get it to move from the smallest sprocket to the next one and so on with no problems. When it comes to the 5th sprocket I get a rattle all the way up to the 9th. when I adjust the barrell to remove the rattle I have lost the indexing on the smallest sprocket. Anyone help, as its doing my nut.

pwward wrote:My plan is to contact my assailant giving my professional address and ask him if he will pay me £246 lost earnings. The evening of the assault I was due to work, but there is no sick pay; if you don't do the shift you don't get paid. But I was back at work the next morning...although my partners forebade me from seeing patients.

If he coughs up I'll draw a line under the matter. If he does not reply or turns me down I think I could inexpensively persue him in the small claims court.

The only spanner in the works is getting in touch with him. The Police have refused to pass him a letter from me and of course they will not reveal his name or address to me. If anyone has any ideas to get around this I'd be grateful. At least one of you sounds like you have some knowledge in this area.

Its ridiculous that they wont tell you his name and where he lives. If the matter went to court it would be a matter of public record. Spek to the PC's Sgt or Insp. Failing that if you have the the reg number you can write to the DVLA with the circs and ask for the reg keepers address.

For that budget you could easily build your own. I have a fixed gear commuter with standard 700c wheels but with 25mm tyres on that smooth the rough bits out. I built the whole thing up for under 200 squid. Try it its great fun building them and satisfying when you ride it knowing that you have built it. All the technical details are easy to find on the web (in particular here)

Fitted and working perfectly, thanks for the replies.

Gooders

Cheers, obviously this linked to my earlier topic. Bought a compact set off TT forum but was told it was a mirage 9spd. Turns out to be a Veloce 10spd with very little use. Bargain at 15 quid methinks. In GB Cycles at sixty quid.

Will the above 10 speed chainset work on a 9 speed shimano chain, front mech, rear mech and block ?

Ta, (short reply)

Will a Campag Mirage chainset work with Shimano rear mech/block/chain/front mech