Cycling UK Forum

I've been having problems with shifting on my 10-speed 105 setup for a while now, with shifts being hesitant and unreliable. Over recent months, just about everything on the drivetrain has been swapped, new cables fitted, a new wheel installed (mainly because of a cracked rim, but it helped eliminate the suspects); I've checked the hanger alignment more than once, replaced the (not-very-worn) chain with a new chain, but the shifts still weren't quite right. I concluded that I must have finally worn out the STI levers.

But back when I replaced the chain, specifically I replaced a SRAM PG-1030 with another, new, SRAM PG-1030.

Yesterday I was looking at the bike again and this thread came to mind. I thought, "I have a KMC X10 in stock; what the heck, give it a try."

So I did.

And everything fell into place. Literally. Nice smooth accurate shifting again.

Now, I have never had problems with SRAM 10-speed chains before, but it does seem like something is up here. The chains I was using were both obtained direct from one of the main SRAM UK distributors, so I'm reasonably confident they're genuine. Maybe a bad batch?

rjb wrote: ↑9 Apr 2024, 1:32pm Something not right there. The spindle should be fixed in alignment to the RH cup and unable to move along. A u tube video suggests the right hand axle and cup has more than 1 bearing which if yours is missing 1 could explain your issue. Here's the video. Hope it's useful.
https://youtu.be/0RKNKzmSGMk?si=BUALJNeVbNL6dtdg


2 bearings on the drive side, 1 on the left.
Campagnolo Centaur Square Taper Bottom Brackets
A high quality Campagnolo square taper bottom bracket that runs on three sealed cartridge bearings; two on the drive side and one on the non-drive side.

I think there are also supposed to be circlips holding the cartridge bearings in place.

I installed Shimano SM-CB90 quick-release inline adjusters for both front and rear canti brakes on my tourer. It was a bit fiddly finding space for the front one on the short length of outer between handlebar and hanger, but not impossible. The quick-release lever provides enough extra slack to unhook the straddle cable very easily, while the adjuster screw makes it easy to compensate for pad wear. Widely available (e.g. SJS Cycles, Merlin) and reliable - the quick release clamps firmly closed so there's little chance of it opening accidentally.

Two possible explanations (not necessarily excuses):

Is there an adjuster on the rear mech itself?

(a) If so, the mechanic may have done all their adjustments using that, as it's easier to reach when the bike's on the workstand. The shifter may have been delivered with its own adjuster tightly screwed in and the mechanic hasn't touched it. You would normally expect a brand new lever to come with the adjuster screwed firmly in, though not so much that you'd need pliers to loosen it.

(b) If the rear mech doesn't have an adjuster, then it's possible that the mechanic reached the point where they had to loosen the cable a bit more but found that they'd already wound the lever adjuster all the way in. Rather than faff around undoing the cable pinch bolt and slipping the cable a bit (and probably starting the adjustment process all over again) they thought "I'll just screw the adjuster in as tightly as I possibly can and that'll probably be enough to make the difference."

(a) would perhaps be excusable; (b) would be a sloppy mechanic in a hurry.

cycleruk wrote: ↑25 Mar 2024, 11:59am I clicked on Chainreaction / Wiggle this morning and the name "Evens" pops up.

Evans has been owned by Mike Ashley's Fraser Group for several years now. My guess is that when the new Chain Reaction/Wiggle websites appear, they will be selling exactly the same stuff at the same prices as Evans does.

Here's one option: the rolling-backward somersault technique.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MoZezpvn3eg
As a bonus, the first half of this technique is also the best way to get a bike safely balanced vertically on the back wheel, controlled by the back brake. This in turn happens to be the best way both to manoeuvre the bike through a narrow space (e.g. past the wheely bins in the side alley) and to get the bike in position ready to hang it from a hook on the wall. So you're really learning three useful techniques for the price of one! The final bit of the somersault isn't as simple as he makes out but it's fine with a little practice. Key to it is holding the brake firmly as you go.

For the OP's purposes maybe the volunteers could work in pairs? One uses this technique to roll the bike back and up to the vertical position, balanced on its back wheel - but no further. They hold it in position while the other volunteer examines the bottom bracket and notes the number, then the bike is lowered gently to the ground again.

Personally I use the technique Mick F describes to flip my bike over from the side because it's quick. The trick is in reaching far enough down that you're below the centre of gravity, so that the bike naturally rotates as soon as you lift it off the ground. It minimises the height you have to lift it to and the time spent lifting. I've taught this technique to basic roadside repair classes and it's fine for most people with reasonably light bikes, but to be avoided for anyone with back problems and/or a hefty e-bike. (There's been a boom in sales of powered-lifting workstands to bike repair shops recently, thanks to all the e-bikes. Better to spend a few grand on a fancy powered stand than have your chief mechanic off work for a few weeks.) The video linked above does a good job of getting round the back issues.

In reality I avoid turning my bike upside down at all if I can help it. It's very rarely necessary. I certainly don't do it for roadside punctures. It either gets propped up against a fence, laid down carefully on its left side or handed to a friend to hold while I work on the wheel.

Bonefishblues wrote: ↑19 Mar 2024, 7:57am I think a small tut could be used to good effect, or perhaps a shrug if you want to really drive home your discontent. That'll do the trick.

For best effect combine it with a muttered "Well, really!" They'll be devastated.

Nicholas wrote: ↑18 Mar 2024, 6:09pm

AndyK wrote: ↑18 Mar 2024, 4:44pm
AndyK's house rule: If you put your $*&^-off big trillion-lumen front light into flashing mode while you're on my ride, you will find your light being used to illuminate that place where the sun don't shine.

Yeah right. What you actually mean is you very politely ask everyone before the ride starts to switch lights to constant or turn them off.

Actually no, I have used those exact words on many occasions. Ask anyone who's been on my Wednesday night rides. (Except I don't use the word $*&^ 'cos I'm polite like that.) It varies, though. If I'm in a good mood I may simply threaten to tear the light from any offender's handlebars and jump up and down on it repeatedly on it while shouting "Make it stop, make it stop." (This is all covered on the advanced ride leader course.)

Jdsk wrote: ↑18 Mar 2024, 4:52pm

AndyK wrote: ↑18 Mar 2024, 4:44pm ...
AndyK's house rule: If you put your $*&^-off big trillion-lumen front light into flashing mode while you're on my ride, you will find your light being used to illuminate that place where the sun don't shine.

I had previously misunderstood "end up in the canal".

; - )

Jonathan

Alimentary, my dear Jdsk; alimentary.

nirakaro wrote: ↑18 Mar 2024, 4:29pm I went for a nice ride along the towpath today, sunny afternoon, lovely quiet space, everything just starting to burst into leaf. The only (small) fly in the ointment was the occasional cyclist coming towards me with a dazzling flashing front light. There’s always one or two. I mean. Part of the reason for going to such places is to get away for a bit from that twenty-first-century sensory overload; so would I be out of order, or over the top, or unreasonable if I stopped them, pointed out the incongruity, and politely suggested that they turn it off?

I generally go for throwing one arm across my eyes and screaming "AAAGH! MY EYES! THE PAIN! I CAN'T SEE!!! MAKE THE FLASHING LIGHTS GO AWAY!!!"

But each to their own.

When I lead member group evening rides in the summer, regulars know that there are just two house rules.:

The Winchester CTC house rule: After dusk, make sure your rear light is on steady mode, not flashing.

AndyK's house rule: If you put your $*&^-off big trillion-lumen front light into flashing mode while you're on my ride, you will find your light being used to illuminate that place where the sun don't shine.

Is it a strap-on bag (oo-er) or does it use Topeak's QuickClip attachment system? If it's a QuickClip bag then this may do the job: Topeak F33. It's sold as being for sprung saddles, but it looks like an extended version of the standard bracket so it should work with a standard saddle 0 as the review on that page seems to confirm. There's also an even longer Fixer 1A if you're desperate.

Bonzo Banana wrote: ↑15 Mar 2024, 6:11pm Marin has been for quite a few years a Indonesian brand as it was bought by Insera Sena who also have their own inhouse brand Polygon.

Citation needed, as they say on Wikipedia. The only reference I can find for that statement is another thread on this very forum 5 years ago. According to press reports Marin were bought by European-based investment company Minestone in 2012 and I can't see anything since to say that's changed.

pwa wrote: ↑12 Mar 2024, 10:31am
If the track discussed here were just a bridleway, I'd be inclined to say that the mud is just something to put up with at this time of year, if the landowner isn't minded to allow upgrading. The law does not require bridleways to be cyclable. But as it is in fact restricted byway, the legal situation may be different. I don't know.

https://www.google.com/maps/@50.9473616 ... ?entry=ttu
This looks like the area concerned.

Maybe this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rhby3SjzsZw

That's the one. Your Streetview pegman is standing on the border between Southampton City Council and Hampshire County Council. If you turn it around 180 degrees and go a few clicks south, you'll find yourself on a surfaced public road maintained by SCC.

Practical differences between bridleways and restricted byways (RBs) as I understand it:

• Horse-drawn carriages may use RBs.
• RBs may not be ploughed up for planting, whereas bridleways and footpaths may be. (Highways Act 1980. Should be restored within 14 days.)
• Different minimum width requirements. Default minimum width for a bridleway that's not along a field edge is 2m. RBs, Byways Open To All Traffic (BOATs) and bridleways along a field edge must be at least 3m wide. (HA 1980 again)

That width requirement may be overridden for individual paths by the Definitive Statement recorded by the council, which describes each right of way in writing. The Definitive Statement for this path describes it as being 8ft wide for most of its length, but that statement hasn't been updated since 2008 so it doesn't reflect the path's change of status. (Yes, the rights-of-way team probably has something of a backlog...)

Otherwise, much the same. The landowner has no responsibility to maintain the surface to a particular standard. If the council were to adopt it as a maintained road - even an "unsurfaced" one - that would be different. But it would then be a highway, not just a right-of-way, and it would be the council's responsibility to look after it.

I think a lot of the confusion comes from the use of the word "byway", which has quite a loose definition in normal speech but a very limited one in law.

basingstoke123 wrote: ↑10 Mar 2024, 12:24am I also do not fully understand the difference between a public footpath and a 'normal' footpath within a town. Or a bridleway and a cycle path. You often get the odd public right of way in addition to all the usual footpaths (and very occasionally a cycle path). What's the difference? AFAIK the public rights of way existed before the area was developed and were never legally extinguished.

Public footpaths and bridleways are rights of way. Nothing more. They are great for leisure use, to explore the wonderful countryside that we have.

Generally they are not suitable for utility use such as commuting or getting to your local shops, whether walking or cycling.

To me, the issue is not that the bridleway is muddy but that there is a lack of a suitable cycle route (or footway?). I suspect that it will be unlikely to get a bridleway or public footpath improved, unless it is actually blocked. What is needed is a suitable cycle path and footpath which could run along the route of the bridleway.

Is the bridleway in HCC or Southampton? Is it an identified possible route in a relevant LCWIP? Could it be added?

Unfortunately HCC is not very cycling (or walking) friendly, although this is changing, slowly. The occasional major road scheme will now sometimes include cycle facilities with funding from central government. But there is no interest (or money) for anything minor.

It's in HCC territory (just). As soon as you cross the border into Southampton at the southern end, it becomes a tarmac road. At the northern end it also transforms into a tarmac road.

The relevant LCWIP is the Test Valley (South) LCWIP and as far as I can see it isn't identified as a route for development in that. The LCWIP recognises the importance of a properly-surfaced, safe cycle route to the Chilworth business park, but sadly not from that particular direction. It does propose a route from North Baddesley through to Chilworth vilage, passing through the science park on the way. Once you get to Chilworth village tyou're in Southampton City Council territory so it's presumably down to them.

To be fair, that route (no. 264 in the report) is in their top 5 high-priority routes, so there'/s every chance the nonexistent funding might go there first.

If that route is established then it would offer a suitable route to Chilworth, but one that's not convenient for the OP or for anyone living on the west side of Southampton who wants to cycle-commute to the Science Park. That matters because it's a major employment area so it needs good active travel routes from surrounding towns and cities.

There are some good suggestions here about who to contact in general, but seriously, for this particular path I think Mykidsdad would be re-treading old ground. He's much better off contacting the local campaigners to start with to find out what's already happened, so he knows where to direct his efforts.