Cycling UK Forum

I would recommend steering clear of car shampoo if you have disc brakes though, as they typically contain wax that will cause you all sorts of trouble. They presumably also deposit wax on rim brake surfaces but IME it doesn't seem to matter. My favourite cleaner is Fenwicks - it's sold as a 1 litre ...

That makes sense - so where I interpreted 'especially designed for use with LED lights' as meaning 'the best hub for LED lights', what it meant was 'only useable with LED lights'. I'm sure it was unambiguous in the original German or Japanese.

Thanks Brucey - the half as bright bit was my first reaction too but I assumed I must be missing something when it said they were for LED lights. I'll check those SJSC offers but it sounds like a 3W one is the way to go.

I’m after a dynamo hub to replace a recently deceased bottle generator on the commuter and was surprised to find models listed as ‘1.5w’: http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shimano-deore-xt-dh-t785-1d-disc-hub-dynamo/aid:742795 It’s described as ‘especially designed for use with LED lights’ (which i...

This from Sheldon Brown:

Radial tires have been tried for bicycles, but they tend to be too floppy from side to side. This floppiness feels quite unpleasant in actual riding--much like the feel of a grossly underinflated tire.

Anything changed?

Not experienced this, but to help in isolating the problem: when the pads have locked on, is the arm on the calliper in the released position? How about the cable, is it slack? This should assist in isolating the problem to the calliper arm movement, the brake lever/cabling or the calliper 'piston'.

Is there a scientific way of quantifying chainring and sprocket wear then? As you can with chains?

+1 for the Avids - just make sure you get the 'Road' version to work with your levers. The TRPs are probably great too (I have no experience of them), but you should be able to get a pair of BB7s for less than £100. Maybe a fair bit less if you can go without the rotors. All that said, while the Shi...

Your subject heading summed up triples quite nicely! Shifting from middle to inner is always temperamental, so minor differences such as seat tube angle, chainstay angle, chainring sizes and brand, sprocket sizes and even which rear sprocket you’re in when you try to shift down at the front all make...

Strange that gear cable seems to be available like that but brakes less so. I had wondered about the cable joiners option as I think I have some somewhere - but would that be any better than using the existing cable stops and bare wire sections? Details on the Yokozuna appear to be sketchy so not co...

Anyone know where I can buy 'compressionless' brake cable outer by the metre, or in a long length? I'd like to fit a continuous length to the rear disc brake of a tandem.

I'd planned on trying to sell a road bike frame that I wasn't using any more, but when I stripped it down I noticed this corrosion in the seat tube: IMG_0093.jpg IMG_0096.jpg What you can see bubbling up is hard to the touch - i.e. if I push a thumb nail into it the paint, it doesn't give. Does this...

Re the headlight - I have an Echo 30 bought on the basis of maximum lux for my Pound/Euro. It gives a great beam on the darker stretches of my urban (street light lit) commute. Something inside the light gives a mildly irritating rattle that no amount of blue tack has been able to entirely solve, bu...

Thanks Reohn, I might just do that. Even with the price of a new rim the 36h option works out cheaper.

I'd go for 36 spoke XT M756 hubs(Tweaks cycles) and double eyelet rims Sputniks(?) from Spa That was the rim and hub combo I had in mind for the front, but thought I'd need more spokes on the rear. Would you expect 36 spokes to be sufficient on the rear? I could re space a Shimano 36h hub to 140mm ...