Cycling UK Forum

Brucey wrote: ↑15 Apr 2024, 7:03pm

colin54 wrote:......weirdly two of the holes for the screws have a square hole (to resist turning) in the saddle top and two circular - the middle pair.......

I have never had one of these in bits but I would say that very probably all the holes were square until the thing inside them was turned many times and/or got hot. I'd have been tempted to hold the Al parts with a peg spanner, having first drilled two small holes in them.

If you zoom in on my picture up-thread there are two of the removed screws, one with a round shank and one square to suit their respectively shaped holes in the cover - slightly hard to see as the flash has overexposed the image. I like the tiny holes in the rivet-head idea, I've got some circlip pliers which might work with that, thanks.
I've seen elsewhere that these rivets have a habit of coming undone. Whilst just watching this little video on the Brooks site about replacing the rivet, I noticed the warning at the end of the 1 minute long video.
'Please be aware that replacing rivets on newest saddles may be more difficult due to the special glue used to secure the rivet head.'
Is this an example of English understatement ?
From the commentary; 'Cambium saddles are built to last and stay with you for several years'......such confidence.


https://www.brooksengland.com/maintenan ... epair.html
and scroll down.

It does seem strange that you can buy the rails, the nose piece, the cantle plate and the screws/rivets but not the top.
https://www.brooksengland.com/en_eu/mai ... parts.html
It was £9 postage from Italy on top of the cantle plate price.
I note that you can extend the two year warranty on leather saddles from Brooks to ten years, but I don't see the same facility for the 'Cambium' saddles.

I attempted to fit a new plastic cantle plate on one of these a while back as the bag loops had broken.
I managed to get two of the torx screws out after much cursing, but the other two resisted my best efforts.
There is no way to hold the rivet-like head of the fixing, it just turns within the rubber saddle top as you try to undo the screw, weirdly two of the holes for the screws have a square hole (to resist turning) in the saddle top and two circular - the middle pair. I eventually attempted to drill out the torx screw head with no success, but called it a day after I burnt my finger on on of the 'rivet' tops (aluminium), heat conduction from the drilling !. I'll maybe drill these out from aluminium end and replace with countersunk screws. The screws had thread lock on them whether from the factory or elsewhere I know not (second-hand). You can buy the replacement screws.

FC-M590-9 speed presumably ?
https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/ev/FC-M5 ... -2926B.pdf
I remembered I'd got one of these that I took off a bike, the little 'safety-keeper' on one of the bolts on the non-drive side crank is something to be aware of, it needs to be flipped after loosening the two allen screws and before pushing the crank spindle across (item 4 in the link) There's a little plastic tool required to enable removal of crank and adjust the bearing on reassembly (all in the picture if you zoom in ).
My only experience of this type of chainset was taking the one pictured off, and that was a while ago. Eyebrox's answer above seems about right to me, you'd only need a little clearance to free a jammed chain.
Edit, In answer to your first post I think you would have to remove the crankset from the frame to change the inner ring, but I think you're almost there once you remove the non-drive side crank anyway, from memory it's all pretty straightforward.
and... there's a good account of the adjusting procedure in this tech doc as well.
https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/si/0093A ... 02-ENG.pdf

Manc33 wrote: ↑8 Apr 2024, 12:55am More from football:

"They've downed tools" (when players want their manager sacked so they stop playing at the level they can)

AKA ''The manager's lost the dressing room''

Carlton green wrote: ↑7 Apr 2024, 11:06am
Perhaps, though, shed a kind thought for the seller and thank them for allowing you to take their dream forward …

Nicely put.

Jdsk wrote: ↑27 Mar 2024, 8:30pm Is it an in-joke referring to that? Because the difference in views wouldn't work with a product designed to be used for the purpose for which it is used...

Jonathan

I assumed perhaps mistakenly (?) that you were alluding to the 'Zen Shim Question' which you have mentioned before on the forum.

http://www.hilarygallo.com/the-zen-shim-question/
All that Zen stuff make my head ache I'm afraid, I read the book once or twice, not for me.

Jdsk wrote: ↑27 Mar 2024, 7:19pm
Do you know the Zen... story?

Jonathan

I do; perhaps Pirsig's friend would have been less upset with a gold plated shim, my current choice for my British Eagle's drive-side bb cup.

As the OP, continued thanks for all the laughs.
This made me laugh today whilst looking at the SJS site, £4.99 inc postage; also available at your nearest shop complete with contents for slightly less.https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares ... -shim-set/

Thanks Col

I'll bite Brucey, SCC meaning; stress....?
Would cross-chaining on triples increase the likelihood of breakage ?
It might be useful in assisting the original poster if he tells us how many sprockets he has on the rear wheel, and if triple chainwheels at the front, if a derailleur bike.

Jim77 wrote: ↑24 Mar 2024, 8:27pm I count 11 threads and the length is 5.2mm - so that gives about 0.4727. So that would suggest a coarse thread?

Hi again Jim if it is 2.5mm OD and from your calculation it's likely to be the coarser of the ones in the table up thread (so a standard M2.5mm x 0.45mm pitch screw ).
Good luck

I've just tried a 3mm diameter dropout adjusting screw in one of mine, same thread.

Jim77 wrote: ↑24 Mar 2024, 3:09pm Hi all

I need to get hold of the following Y6R398050 bolt but it is longer supplied.

https://manualzz.com/doc/53867909/shima ... loded-view

However I have found that it is a m2.5 x 5.2mm bolt and want to buy a subsitute.

However, how do I measure the distance between threads of the “nut” and whether it coarse or fine thread?

Cheers


Jim

Hi Jim, where did you get the 2.5mm diameter figure from ?
The reason I ask is that I've just had a look at a couple of different Shimano shifters with similar though not identical covers and the outer diameter (OD) on both fixing screws is 2.9mm so likely nominal 3mm screws. It's hard for me to get precise measurements for a screw that small, but here's a picture of what I've got for what it's worth. From the attached photo I count that as 13 threads (over a length of 6.8mm approx)) = .52mm pitch so likely M3 with a .5mm pitch thread would be the one that lines up from looking at the table linked by Jonathan above.
Hoping this helps and doesn't muddy the waters, good luck.
Edit M3, not M5 - altered in text in second paragraph.









edit

Nice, another one from the '97 catalogue ! I'm quite tempted to get another hybrid and I like the steel frame on the Saracen ones.
https://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/d/ ... n_1997.pdf
I had a Ridgeback hybrid with an aluminium frame a while back, it felt bit of a harsh ride to me.