Cycling UK Forum

thotwielder

Thanks for all the reply, very helpful. I think I am sticking to my folder for a while.. until the next impulsive buying

thotwielder

NATURAL ANKLING wrote:Hi,

Obviously a typo, so which is it

Sorry, I meant the saddle can't go any more 'fore'.

thotwielder

Thanks for all the replies. I currently cycle 3 minutes to a tram station and take a tram (8 minutes) to a train station (I can also cycle 15 minutes to the train station but I already got a travel card (London zone 3,4) which covers the tram), then ride a train for 15 minutes, after that it's a 40 minute (6.6 mile) cycling to work. Yes, I know I still should try it out the whole route myself. Thinking getting a Decathlon rode bike, cheap compared with big brands but reviewed very well. At least I can use it for weekend.

thotwielder

I am now using a folder to do 6.6 miles one way from train station to work. It takes about 40 minutes. After one week I felt a little bit tired. If I do the whole route from home to work it would be 15 miles (one way). I haven't got a decent road bike so haven't tired whole route yet. The route is mostly flat. So what's your opinion on this, should I continue on my folder or should I get a decent road bike? Will 15 miles on a good road bike more enjoyable than 6.6 miles on a folder (on a daily base)?

thotwielder

NATURAL ANKLING wrote:Hi,
From your post it sounds like your pedal is in the middle of the sole of shoe (foot on flat pedal no foot retention, i.e. clips / SPD clipless):?:
If this is the case then IF your ball of foot (big toe knuckle) was over the pedal spindle then you would need to move saddle aft a bit.

If your size 9 / 10 shoe then the ball of foot ideally should be forward of the pedal spindle by about 12 MM for a basic set up, if you also use what system you describe in link (which is KOPS Knee Over Pedal Spindle) then average height male 6' About 60 - 70 MM Nose of saddle behind Bottom Bracket is about standard starting point with a 9.5 " long saddle approximately.

As you are using a folder which is probably handle bars higher than saddle then its not a classic road bike set up and you will probably be limited by reach of saddle to handle bars, so you will never realise full performance and comfort when you start to push it a bit for six miles plus at a sweating pace.

Saddle height is important here for comfort firstly, when you want more speed with comfort bike fit needs to be more precise, see how you get on.

No clip, just my bare feet with shoes. Thanks for the info now I realise the instruction in the link is probably for the road bike. Anyway, my saddle can't go any aft so nothing I can do. I agree with you I spend more effort on my folder than 'bigger' bikes but the convenience is I don't have to cycle the whole route from home to work everyday, which is 15 miles one way. So that's something I can accept. Thanks.

thotwielder

Just got a folding bike (Decathlon b fold 7). Mainly for commuting. This is the first time I start some serious cycling (serious for a newbie) so I want the fit to be as optimal as possible. I did casual cycling before but never really thought of fitting properly. Now I read this

http://www.downtube.com/Bicycle_Fitting ... index.html

And did the measuring and found the saddle is kind of 'aft' by 5 cm (the weight is at about half of my foot at almost the highest point of the arch). The problem is the saddle is already at the most 'fore' point, which means it can not go any more 'fore' (but can go aft). I did this measuring when the saddle height is at proper height (leg is straight when the peddle is at the lowest point).

So what do you suggest?

Cycling UK Forum

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Re: commute distance, folder or road bike?

Re: adjust Saddle fore and aft

Re: commute distance, folder or road bike?

commute distance, folder or road bike?

Re: adjust Saddle fore and aft

adjust Saddle fore and aft