Cycling UK Forum

mjr wrote:

Two_Trooper wrote:Just on the note of rear ended collisions I am a driver and always have my foot on the brake when stopped at lights, no hand brake, its the safest if you do get hit, cars in gear and the smash happens, you stall and also your brakes on. When they teach you to stop and apply the hand brake is really not a good idea for this very reason.

Except that when you get shunted, your foot can easily come off the brake pedal, then the car's in gear and could easily drive forwards rather than stall. That's why they teach you to take it out of gear and lock the handbrake on. That's also when modern cars autostop their engines.

mjr wrote:

iviehoff wrote:I use always-on lights in London, though I only use super-bright lights at night.

That sounds backwards: don't you need less light at night?

I feel dazzling super-bright lights are a bad idea. People say things like this (actual quote from another site): "If I get stuck behind someone with one, I have to look away, or try harder to get past, or deliberately slow down to let them get some distance" and do you really want motorists avoiding looking at you or trying harder to get past?

Brucey wrote:SCC of brass is well known as a major problem whenever there is any ammonia present, but unless you roads are covered in poop (or possibly they are using urea for de-icing which is somehow decomposing to give ammonia) then there shouldn't be any ammonia present. Which leaves MgCl, NaCl etc that is used for road de-icing. This can also cause SCC in brass but it isn't so well known.

What is well known is that the stronger the solution of any corrosive agent, the worse the problem. Leaving your bike dirty and letting the crud dry out is a bad idea; the strength of the corrosive solution can increase dramatically. Washing it off is a good idea; even leaving the bike out in the rain might be better than leaving it to dry out.

I have often noted that commuters see the absolute worst of any corrosive conditions; the bike gets ridden every day in the foulest weather, and furthermore it gets ridden only a short time after the roads (especially main roads) have been freshly dosed with de-icing agents. You could hardly contrive anything worse in terms of making a bike corrode.

cheers

torquerulesok wrote:For such an incident a Fly6 rear-facing camera might be ideal. It mounts on the seatpost.

http://www.fly6.com

I picked up the old model recently on a close-out deal for £99 and am very happy with it.

gerrymcm wrote:Hi
I'm not sure where you are but there's a guy in london called Arup, I think south east London, who does small friendly courses for a few people depending on demand. He's a link if you want know more.
http://www.yogarup.com/wheels/
He's supposed to be good although I've not actually been on his course myself but a lot of people on the lfgss forum recommend him.

I bought the Musson book and rate it quite highly in its non scientific practical approach.

Best of luck.
Gerry

reohn2 wrote:Buy the Roger Musson book online follow the step guide and his many useful hints and tips.If you've got even a smidgen of common sense,a little practical knowledge and a little patience, wheelbuilding's not the daunting prospect it appears.