Cycling UK Forum

Things go wrong on bikes? :mrgreen: I can't think of one single thing. * Double crankset. Triple plz. I don't like the cadence jump. Yeah I run a triple. I got a 48-36-26 and swapped the 26 inner for a 22, still shifts fine. For the weight of a 22t chainring it's a godsend. * Over geared. There's 50...

When I did this I ended up with Schwalbe City Jet tyres on it but if I was doing it again I'd opt for the Schwalbe Marathon Plus. Imagine never repairing a puncture again (he says crossing his fingers). Only thing is they do weigh a lot and the grip just isn't the same as a "punctureable" ...

The first thing she said... "Obviously you have a fairly one sided view" So she's telepathic, righty 'O. It's not us and them. Plenty of cyclists also own cars and drive cars. Plenty of drivers also own bicycles and ride bicycles. I drive a car and can't remember ever getting annoyed becau...

the above techdoc suggests that there are similar trim clicks in SL-R440 and SL-R441 front shifters. I have just got a SL-R441 left shifter and it has trim clicks on all 3 chainrings. 8) I had a SL-R440 in the past and I think that only had one trim click on the middle, it certainly didn't have 3 t...

you can't fault the perfection of this shift The fastest/best rear shifting I have ever had was XTR 8-speed M951 pods - on another level, even compared to XTR 9-speed. Stupidly difficult to find now, especially in pod-only form. Also the internals of those shifters were chunky compared to the later...

I think I know why the flat bar front mechs have a longer swingarm although they still have a road shifter cable pull - because they are for use with flat bar thumb shifters so the leverage needs to be more. That's confusing because the longer swingarm makes it seem like the cable pull is different ...

I just ended up putting a road mech on, it works on a wing and a prayer with a MTB shifter, in some regards it's better (no chain rub on middle>small). It just about shifts from granny to middle, while not going out too far on the outer, but one thing is if I cross chain it on the outer, the chain c...

I thought of a way to bodge a fix to use the braze-on K-Edge chain catcher with a braze-on front road mech with a MTB left shifter . Oh god it's glorious :lol: In the past, I know I got a R443/R773 front mech to shift with a MTB left triple shifter, the snag was the cable had to be quite loose when ...

If you can attach some photos someone may come up with ideas. But it's dirty :P OK, 2 slightly different angles: https://i.imgur.com/MGZIJiX.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Qyqodj0.jpg The only way I can see is a thick cable tie around something like the back of the seat tube then going under the down tube...

Back using a MTB front mech (that's not a braze-on) I am totally out of ideas for what to use for a chain catcher. My seat tube where the FD clamps on is 34.9mm but it tapers almost straight away and goes fatter, so the clamp-on K-Rex posted above cannot be fitted, the tubing is too fat and the scre...

The R in the code number means that is designed to work with Road and not MTB equipment. Please check the Shimano technical pages if you have doubt. But the R443 and R773 front mechs exist for use with flat bar shifters. Why, if a FD-6503 could be used? Are they just trying to keep model numbers to...

Which generation of Dura Ace? 7703 left shifter. Maybe the mech being the 8-speed version (used with a 9-speed chain) has something to do with it working seemingly as well as the 9-speed triple FD-6603 was. rjb I am using a 48t outer and it's been OK. The 6503 also worked fine on the same 48t outer...

I am running a FD-R443 (supposedly for use with flat bar shifters) with a Dura-Ace road shifter and despite the R443 front mech having a longer swingarm, it seems to work just as well as my FD-6503 was doing. What I know from the past is a left MTB shifter doesn't quite work right with these flat ba...

Here's what I think but I might be way off - the max Nm for a bolt seems to generally follow their "M" sizing within the most common bolt sizes on bikes, like so: M3 = Max. 3Nm M4 = Max. 4Nm M5 = Max. 5Nm But then after that, it exponentially changes where a M6 bolt can take more, like 8Nm...

I just set this torque wrench to 5Nm and did up a test bolt. Then I tried a Ritchey torque key rated at 5Nm on the same bolt, to my surprise the Ritchey tightened it up about 1/16th of a turn more before hitting 5Nm. I doubt the Ritchey is wrong. So is it possible my original torque wrench (the subj...