Cycling UK Forum

Thanks Brucey - I have done quite a bit of "elimination" - it only occurs with this rear wheel in the bike, and with all of a few cassettes on this rear wheel that are creak free on other rear wheels.

It seems like a replacement free hub if I could find one would be around £ 40 - so if I do follow the Loctite route it looks to me that Loctite 641 would be the one, a retaining compound that allows dissassembly - I am open to other options and advice !

I have a reasonable set of Planet X wheels that I bought second and have been commuting on for a few years. I think they were AL30 ?

The rear recently started to creak, and pretty sure this is due to wear on the Al hub body. The splines were worn when I bought the wheels, I have been using them with a correctly torqued 10 speed cassette and spacer.

I got the freehub off - Px don't stock spares It is marked CHO14-04 SEN-04 and I think this is OSFH-06BW-SC-11S when I look at the CHOSEN website.

I have contacted CHOSEN via their website, but think it is unlikely they would supply me direct.

The freehub body also appears on alibaba as ASP85707B, as part of a carbon wheel build.

I am open to suggestions (Brucey ?) I know that these OEM hubs are often rebranded by other suppliers, but the spares available for RSP and Superstars hubs don't seem to use this model where the seal is a push fit into the hub body and not attached to the freehubspline body.

I am coming around to the idea of fitting a new 10 speed cassette and using an appropriate loctite - and perhaps accepting this is a one way non reversible repair until the cassette (or myself) finally expire. Any recommendations on what grade to use assuming that I will never want to remove it ?

What is the general view on the best liquid to use for cleaning.
I am reluctant to buy expensive proprietary makes specified for cycling and have found shaking my chain over a few hours in an innocent smoothie bottle with a strong washing powder solution seems to work.

Can anyone suggest an industrial company near Bristol for a shot blast and colour change of a hack mtb frame only ( no forks ). I know Argos would do good job, but probably too good for what I am after at present.

Thanks everyone. I had not thought that it would work without the pin acting as a fulcrum point to return the brakes to "off". So thanks to brucey and I will try that this weekend

Many thanks for the suggestions.

Perhaps the exploded view is not too helpful, as the assembly of my C19 cantilevers is different to that shown for the "Shorty" in the diagram.

I just wanted to show the missing lost pin.

For the C19 the shoulder is on the outside, not sandwiched (and I am not sure it is sandwiched on the Shorty)

Therefore the shoulder seems to play an important job in preventing the pin from twisting sideways against the spring force.

Yep, a nail could be a useful starting blank but I would need to very accurately file both the reduced base area to fit the hole in the cantilever body, and probably the other end too to fit into the location hole in the cantilever boss brazed to the frame.

I had thought of this, it might work. I will give it a go !

(Unless fresh forum interest has revealed an Avid canti pin in someone's parts box ( or an Avid canti arm damaged in some other way and ready for sacrifice !))

Want of a nail was a metaphorical title...

I am not sure that a nail would do the job.

It needs a pin with a shoulder and to be made out of something harder

I thought I may have a better chance here amongst the techno cognoscenti than in the Wanted forum so here is hoping...

I am renovating an old Galaxy that came with good quality Avid 15C Cantilevers.

When I took off the rear canti's a while ago I did not realise that the tiny canti pin that engages in the fork had come loose, and dropped on the garage floor somewhere never to be seen. I was surprised this could happen but they seem to be a push fit into the canti body as shown on the diagram below.

The diagram is for Avid Shorty brakes - the 15C are more like Tekro Oryx in shape.



Does anyone have one in the spares box ? or a suggestion for Avid spares ( I tried this shop on E bay, but they don't have them)

All help appreciated !

I had a similar problem but got sheldons big nut and bolt to work only after I had a socket on an extension bar inside the bb shell together with the big spanner on the outside. Maybe also try thermal shock. Those freeze spray aerosols used by plumbers to get it cold then boiling water to get it hot. I got a very stuck seat post out this way. Good luck.

Just seen the advert in this months CTC magazine..

£ 350 for a Ti frame and steel fork seems like a bargain !

Thanks for the quick replies so far

"Some folk ride rough tracks on lightweight bikes with skinny tyres, but they are usually very skilled riders who are seeing every tiny bleb in the trail and reacting accordingly. They are not 'admiring the scenery' per se...

That is me really, been out on the bikes for 30 odd years, but this one got me in the dark !

Any experience out there with Gatorskins ( I think they do a "Hardshell ) , or Continental (Travel contact I think ?)

I am interested in opinions on tyres for mixed use.

My daily commute is on tarmac. I have used GP 4000s in 700 x 25, (almost a "racing tyre" in the 23mm width) that are fine.

From time to time I have a weekend away lightweight touring and using Sustrans paths that are sometimes stretches of canal tow path or forestry fire road.

Any suggestions for something with a tougher sidewall ? (Having sustained a nasty tear over Easter that needed an internal gaffa tape repair)

I could go the whole hog with Schwalbe (normal) Marathons, but would rather be riding something lighter most of the time for my commute.

I know it is all a compromise, but any suggestions or past experience would be appreciated.

Many thanks !

Hi Valbrona - have pm'd you

I am thinking of adding disc brakes to my old Cr Mo Kaffenback frame.

Whilst Argos in Bristol can braze on disc mounts, I wondered if there was anyone else who could be recommended.

( I am not sure if they have to be brazed - can MiG / TiG be used on a heavy gauge Cr Mo ? )

Many thanks for the replies and experiences.

It is currently being followed up by the solicitors who deal with the CTC accident line, so he is in good hands.

We will await the outcome, I know it will be awhile, and keep this post informed.