Cycling UK Forum

My inner tube burst today whilst cycling, and I when I inspected the tyre I decided to change it - no problem.

However, I've found this part next to my bike after popping the rear wheel back in and I have no clue what it is! There doesn't seem to be anything missing and I wondered if any seasoned bike experts might have an idea?

C



I'm a trendy consumer. Just look at my Nexus 7 using hovercraft full of eels.

Interestingly, a 'hole in the heart' is an unusual cause of migraines, although no-one knows why, and closure of holes used to be done as a treatment.

Traditional treatment for a ganglion was whacking it with a King James Bible and I know a quack who tried this out of curiosity! Surprisingly it doesn't work!

Nowadays it's a simple operation to remove so if it's causing you problems - go to your GP! (or give the Bible a go beforehand!)

I agree, I've caught up with people and politely said you almost knocked me over back there, you were x far away from me and they were genuinely shocked and sorry (the last time was an ambulance off duty) - they always say " I didn't see you" despite overtaking a fluorescent flashing blue and yellow thing on wheels. I haven't had any righteous angry people yet (but I am 6ft 1" and built!).

I cycle around with my lights flashing during the day in Bristol and the rationale is as follows: the light sensing part of the human eye is mostly made up of rods that detect light/dark which are good at detecting this difference as well as movement. They cluster all over the eye including the periphery. Flashing lights stimulate these cells effectively and therefore get people's attention.

This is an effort to not get run over by the wazzocks who seem to "not see" the person in fluorescent clothing cycling in front of them. The same goes for pedestrians who seem to wonder in the road aimlessly and not hear bells. I don't want to run someone over, therefore, I would still use a flashing light on the cycle path.

However, I wouldn't use a sunlight emitting thing! I don't need to blind someone, just catch their attention!

I feel like this is a post about magicians hands....

Ta DAAAAAA!

Commuting to work year round for the last few years in Bristol I can confirm that it rains a lot. However, I've never found it to be a problem, and more often than not its mostly drizzle.

I guess it depends on how long your journey is as to how waterproofed you need to be. During the winter I usually wear a pair of cycling leggings which keep me warm, dry quickly if it rains at work, and breathe. I complement this with either a very waterproof jacket or shower jacket with hi-vis stripes on depending on how cold / wet it is. As the winter rolls on, I add on baselayers etc.

I also echo using mudguards; they save a lot of drying and discomfort during the winter commute! I would also recommend thinking about your bag/panniers and how to keep their contents dry if you haven't got a system in place. I used to use a rucksack with a waterproof cover and dry bags which worked very well, but since I now teach, have switched to using ortleib panniers which are dry as a bone (and keep weight off the back!).

With regards to cameras, I don't own one but frequently feel I need to get one; too many people in cars who want to share my personal space on mobile phones! That being said, cycling in Bristol is usually a joy and far quicker getting around than with a car! I used to live in Clifton and found it was quicker (and cheaper) to cycle to Frenchay everyday than to drive!

Hope that helps.

What happens to the bikes if they're not claimed? Do they get auctioned, scrapped or kept indefinitely?

+1 Phil

I was at university day yesterday as part of my PGcert and some of the people were shocked when I said I had cycled 20 miles to get in. When we got talking they said that they were terrified of cycling on the road - we talked about awareness and the primary position and I explained that a bike is classed as a carriage and that the highway code says you should give an entire car width to overtake.

They were shocked and genuinely didn't know this. I think it explains a lot of the idiots. I've been in arguments with Wallys who still think road tax exists and hence cyclists shouldn't use the road!

Hey everyone,

Thank you for the advice so far! It's interesting to hear that there is such a range of opinions, particularly as this chap seemed pretty insistent that it was what I needed for touring!

So I'm quite new into touring having used a road bike for a few years and commuting by bike. I'm cycling a ridgeback voyager 2013, and the plan is to tour this side of the year down to the south coast and Devon/Cornwall. The plan for early next year is to start avec le France & Amsterdam with my other half who is very new to cycling.

However, the secret dream is to cycle around the world.

I switched to toe clips years ago from standard pedals, and they made a massive difference, but have never forayed into cleats. I've read that toe clips are better for touring as you can wear normal shoes/walking boots and save on space /weight. Is that actually comfortable?

I agree, in some areas in Bristol its pretty mandatory to adopt the primary position to prevent some idiot trying to flatten you to save seconds before you pass them further up the road.

Now... Breathe...

Hi everyone,

I was chatting to my local bike mechanic as they fixed up my toe clips, and they were suggesting that I should upgrade my pedals and use MTB cleats in light that I want to do longer touring.

Is this correct? I've heard from other fellow cyclers before that toes clips are best for touring.

What are other and more experienced CTCers thoughts?

Charlie

Thanks everyone - your input has been invaluable!

Hi everyone, I've been cycling for sometime but this is my first post!

I'm having some fun with tyres - I acquired an old centurion diamondback road bike from my Dad after doing lots of mountain biking and love it! However the tyres really need a change - have dutifully gone and bought 700 x 28c gatorskins (the same size as the original tyre) but it won't fit!!!

There was not much clearance in the forks anyway, and they aren't damaged/bent. The wheel size is the as the original. Somebody told me that tyre manufacturers sometimes claim their smaller tyres are larger so that they can claim a competitive advantage in weight - could that be what's happening here?

Also, is there much difference between 23 x 25 and 28 c tyres? I went for the "original" size as I thought it would make the ride more comfortable on long distance but think i will swap to 23 for more clearance on the fork (there's about 2mm at present).