Cycling UK Forum

InSearchofSunrise

Brilliant.
Took a solid week of pumping it and leaving it sideways to get the sidewalls to seal, but it eventually took.

InSearchofSunrise

So small update, three days and it's not gone flat on me.
The day I forgot my pump I gave the tire a spin every couple of hours while I was at work and it's been fine since with no further faff

InSearchofSunrise

They annoyed me so much on my road bike that I put solids on it.

And they roll like poorly cast conrcete

InSearchofSunrise

Whats wrong with mahogany?

InSearchofSunrise

tim_f wrote:Have you tried giving the inside of the tires a very thorough clean to get any production residual oil off (which may stop the latex coating the tire) and then 'painting' sealant on the inside of the tires with a brush, then mount the tires with more sealant in a puddle?

Continental suggest this procedure in the 'how to' video for their Revo sealant.

Have to do a teardown and ship back home in a week, so maybe I'll suffer through a bit longer and try that on the other side of the pond. Parts are cheaper there as well, so that's helpful.

Brucey wrote:I'd suggest fitting inner tubes.

FWIW anytime you have horizontal dropouts and rim brakes, you need to be careful about chain length. Using a half-link in a new chain can allow the wheel to be positioned in increments of 1/4" in the dropouts (with any given chainring/sprocket) and if you are prepared to fit a +1T chainring as necessary the wheel can be positioned in increments of 1/8".

The chain can be allowed to wear about 1/2" before it should be ditched, and this requires the wheel to move 1/4".
If the seatstays are set at about 45 degrees, this means the brake blocks will have to move about 8mm in the brake arms as the chain wears.

So basically it is a question of simply setting the chain length so that the brake blocks are in the top of the slots when the chain is new; that way you will have enough adjustment available as the chain wears, even without messing about with half-links and odd-size chainrings as the chain wears.

cheers

Can't really explain why I just really hate tubes. I'd rather lose the slick and fit another Marathon. And if the above doesn't work I may do just that.

mattsccm wrote:Some tyres just have sidewalls that are porous and only, if at all, eons of soaking in tyre sealant works. I assume that they are folding tyres as wide beads virtually never work.
Not saying that this forum won't have the answer but asking on the STW (theoretically a MTB forum) forum will provoke millions of suggestions. Some maybe helpful!

I actually wasn't paying attention when I ordered it and did get a wire, which I didn't want. It was a ballache, but that part did work eventually.

InSearchofSunrise

Haven't got a clue. This thing showed up on my doorstep in a basically a paper bag from Canada, not in good shape, and I've never seen a good half of the parts before. Used to road bikes and pretty vanilla MTB. This is another beast entirely, but I'm getting there.

Part of the problem is the horizontal dropouts, which he seemed to think was a great idea, but I'm not really sold on how that works with the Rohloff, or the cantilevers (Paul). Add pitlocks to that and it's a bit of a headscratcher.

The Pauls with Koolstop thinlines (my first clue that something was a bit fishy here) works, and gives a fair amount of adjustment, but a good half of the dropout isn't usable because the brakes don't line up if the wheel is too far forward or back.

InSearchofSunrise

It's a strange custom build that my brother had made for touring and towing big trailers.
Already having issues getting the canti's to not rub the tires.

InSearchofSunrise

They do look good, but I don't think I could make the extra half inch of tire fit

InSearchofSunrise

Barry and Janet wil wrote:Have you maybe got a rim-tape issue? The sealant is more difficult to stay on it as centrifugal force throws it off and onto the tyre. Just guessing.

It is possible I'm sure, But soap tests and such have pretty consistently shown the sidewalls bleeding air at best, and pin-holing at worst.

Forgot my pump at home when I left for work this morning, so I'm desperately hoping that today is one of the rare days that it doesn't need pumping before the commute home.

I can't seem to find anything other than these two tires that work for this size (26x1.35)

InSearchofSunrise

I'll assume that someone knows this pain already, I've been trying to convince a 559 Kojak to run tubeless for over a month with Stans, lately tried Orange as well.

It spent a few nights on each side, and now I've been riding it every day, but it needs to be pumped every day, sometimes twice (40-50 psi).

Anyone had any success doing this?

Marathon on the rear had no such problems, never had a single problem with it.

InSearchofSunrise

I did also notice that the pawl springs appear to be missing, Not sure how or why, but I'd have thought they would have appeared when I had that bit open, and I don't remember seeing them.
Ordered new ones, so hopefully that will solve the last of the chatter and such.
I'll save the oil change for when I get home in a few weeks.

InSearchofSunrise

That is good to know, I did lose a fair amount (onto a carpet that I don't care at all about), and have bought more oil, but perhaps I'll hold onto it for next time.

InSearchofSunrise

Brucey wrote:you do need to be able to move the wheel to accommodate chain wear; a fixed position for the wheel may only be a temporary solution.

I was only going to put spacers in at the front, something like monkey nuts. I'm told that the NDS tries to shift forward in the dropout, which seems consistent with what I saw on my second test ride, I would have thought the torque arm should stop that pretty dead, but it did happen.
The biggest effect it would have is having the location always just be right (Pre chain wear) when the wheel goes back on instead of faffing about trying to get the tension correct and the wheel straight. Once it wears I'd be back to that, I suppose.

InSearchofSunrise

Changed the sprocket and gave the chain a bit more slack and it seems to have quieted down.
Was thinking that the spinning while rolling was the axle tension being too high, but it does it even without nuts on. The frame is pretty tight, so that could be it, I suppose. Don't really want to manhandle the thing apart though. Was kind of hoping that the shop would have given me a tiny bit of clearance.
It's not really a huge issue though is it?

I've looked at about every sort of chain tug and spacer and none will fit. I think when I get to my dad's shop back home I'll just make up some wood spacers for where I want the wheel to stay and glue them in.

InSearchofSunrise

Oh well that does sound better doesn't it. Would likely be a good idea if I'm going to do a big tour like I've been thinking about.

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