Cycling UK Forum

Does anyone know how accurate the published statistics and data are for incidents. 5yrs ago my wife and I were involved in a bad accident (hit from behind @ 70mph, air ambulance, A road closed) but cannot find any details of the incident on the mapping type sites, e.g. www.Crashmap.co.uk
It made the local newspaper, but doesn't seem to have got on the records correctly. I've found what looks like the incident on a gov.uk file, based on date and time on the same road, but it puts it about 5 miles further along the road, so to me that twists the stats on what is a poor junction.

I do decals as a hobby, and have done them for quite a few on these forums.

computer cut vinyl, in a range of colours. Most of the work I do is for your own name, and a pair for either side of the top tube is £1.50, plus cost of stamp per order. I can also do single colour copies of most cycle marks as well.

I'd be wanting to be able to move/adjust the stem correctly. You don't want the corrosion products to start to break up and the stem to go loose on you when riding.

Look to drill/lube/dissolve the stem and make good

EdmundPettis wrote:Hopefully I'll decide if it is worth respraying completly or to touch up - and keep some or original paint work. But it is very scratched - I think it may be better to get it resprayed. Most of the decals are removed or damaged too. I suppose it depends if I want it as a complete rebuild or to get back to original state.

I'm undecided at the moment. Because it would be good to keep it almost original but then if I'm changing many of the other parts I may as well make it more my own. Unless I was to sell it in the future would probaly bet better off keeping as is?

If you want some custom or closely matching to the original Dawes decals, then I can do some computer cut vinyl ones for not a lot of dosh ( I do names for top tubes for a lot of people for their bikes - hobby to fund cycling)

Velocity also do 40 hole rims. Brick Lane Bikes in London are one of the dealers for them. If you want narrow rim and 700C, then the DeepV works well. Have a pair on the touring tandem.

I've changed the bearings in the freehub on Campag.

Can't remember the bearing size, but got them from a local bearing shop.

The out bearing is relatively easy to get out. I use a hot air gun on the shell and the drift out the bearing.

The inner one is a little more difficult, as there is a 'lost' circlip holding it in place. I measured down the freehub and drilled a 2mm hole in the side to enable me to push the circlip out, then warmer up the shell and drifted it out.

Refitting, warm up the shell and push the new bearings in.

If you have a low-rider pannier mount on the forks, then use that to put a lamp mount on.
A long bolt through a 2" piece of 1" dia dowel would do.

If you have 4 sets of 3 batteries, then charge them up when two sets have discharged. Keep sets held together with rubber bands or piece of innertube

with all these old inner tubes being mentioned, why not make a mount using a bit of inner tube to both protect the handlebar and give some gripto the torch, then another 'band' to clip overeach end of the torchwhen going under the bar

You may need to use a bit more than a multimeter to measure the power. A lot of the circuitry for LEDs uses current pulses to the LED, so the average DC current you measure may appear a lot less. An oscilloscope may be better to view the power.

Was it one of the Kirk frames (road or MTB) ?

I've got a Kirk frame in storage that I might part with

I'd have tried heating it up from the inside using a hot air gun. Plenty of room as you have already got the adjustable cup off.

I had a cartridge BB sieze in a frame (it was the factory fitted one). Used the splined tool and the splines on the BB crumbles, so nothing to get a hold of to get it out. Managed to get the LH plastic cup off and hammered the axle out of the cartridge, then used a flexible shaft on a drill and a grinding cone to slowly remove the remnants of the shell just down to the start of the threads. The small amount of swarf left easily picked out of the threads. No damage to the frame and new BB went in cleanly (with plenty of anti-sieze).

It must have taken a beating over the 12 yrs of its life to need a respray.

Our tandem is 17yrs and paint is still as good as new and no signs of rust

Cateye TL-LD1100 fits via bracket or screws to the plate on to carriers. Got one on a few of my bikes

I use a studded tyre (Winter Marathon) on the back whhel of thr Trice, as getting traction at the rear is not easy with the weight distribution being forward. It makes a big difference in snow and ice for grip. In the dry it is like riding along the road with the sound of frying bacon sizzling, no matter what the tyre pressure.

When I originally fitted it, I took great care to 'run it in' for the miles they recommend and also checked that the studs were still in place (a couple had moved out, but pushed in again OK).

I am more worried about pulling studs out in the dry as the rear whel of a Trice takes a hammering in corners (it does with me), so squirms around with the risk that studs may fly