Cycling UK Forum

I need to replace my current touring shoes, ie ones I can walk in and that look "normal'. I've spotted these DHB one from Wiggle and wondered if anyone here has tried them? https://www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-dorica-mtb-shoe/ Cheers, Ian Yes, I have three pairs of those. one white & two black. Si...

Thanks for the offer but I take a size 45. Out of interest what are your thoughts on those shoes?

Ian

I need to replace my current touring shoes, ie ones I can walk in and that look "normal'. I've spotted these DHB one from Wiggle and wondered if anyone here has tried them?

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-dorica-mtb-shoe/

Cheers, Ian

Rather than criticise the cable routing (which is probably original) may I say well done, you've clearly gone to a lot of effort.

Ian

I would suggest that the most likely cure is more tension in the spokes. I used to build / rebuild wheels every working day for many years and never had problems with spokes loosening on my wheels. I did however see lots of new wheels that lost their tension very quickly: they all had the same fault...

If you go to a frame builder for the paint job he should be able to realign the frame and repair the dent.

Ian

My 2p worth. I have several bikes that I ride regularly. My lightweight road bikes and tandem all have combined brake/gear controls (2x shimano, 1 SRAM). The bike I ride most regularly has bar-end indexed shifters. Personally I love them, particularly for a touring oriented bike. I find that if I'm ...

The Helicomatic system was a great idea. Easy freewheel removal and, above all, the gearside bearing moved to the outside. Unfortunately for Maillard Shimano introduced the freehub and, as they say, the rest is history.

Ian

Going back to the original post. I can't comment from personal experience on recent Moultons but I have had my AM Jubilee for 30 years. I ride it regularly as well as my 700c wheeled bikes. There was a previous comment that the small wheels give a harsh ride compared to a 700c wheeled bike. This is...

- Those front forks with the tapered fixed legs (towards the back) are what I had originally on my AM. Modern bikes have no taper. I had to switch mine at one point and the stiffness of the newer forks was immediately obvious and gave much better handling. I don't know when your original forks date...

If you have one I would suggest heating the offending part with a blow torch til it glows red and let it cool. The expansion and contraction should release the seized up thread. You will still need a good fitting screwdriver to get it moving.

What I don't understand here, as someone who has run a retail bike shop, is why On Yer Bike, for the sake of a stamp, didn't just send the part in the hope that the customer would be pleased with good service and buy from them again, and maybe even recommend them to his friends as a good shop to dea...

Try riding a fixed gear bike ( on a track, or road ) you’ll pedal properly, or you’ll have a nightmare. It’s a very digital way of riding, by necessity. +1 Best thing I ever did in terms of my cycling technique. One winter on a fixed and when I got back on gears my cadence was up and gears down. It...

one issue with 'linked brakes' is that (depending on the weight distribution) you need the front brake to come on harder than the rear brake, otherwise the rear wheel just locks up in any kind of hard stop. With a hydraulic disc system an obvious way of managing this is to fit different sized discs...

alexnharvey wrote:That's not the type he's trying to make. The solutions are to anneal it yourself or to use an angle grinder, bench grinder or diamond file on the hardened steel. You might also try a carbide grit or maybe a bimetal hacksaw blade.

+1 Anneal it - heat to cherry red and allow to cool.