Search found 12 matches

by Mountgrove
25 May 2022, 9:12am
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: 1x drivetrain 11 speed. How to change from 38T 130 BCD to smaller chainring. for 20 gear inches climbing gear.
Replies: 6
Views: 496

Re: 1x drivetrain 11 speed. How to change from 38T 130 BCD to smaller chainring. for 20 gear inches climbing gear.

Thanks both,
I am emailing a vendor with regard to their Raptor Chainring 104BCD - Narrow Wide as it is advertised as between 30T & 38T.
So hopefully I can purchase a new crankset compatible with my SRAM Apex 11 speed 1x (11-42t). These are £35 each.

The 2x route sounds interesting as well. When I read the suggestion about switching over by hand - I made an audible "Duh" (why did I not think of that lol!).
There is a SHIMANO XT M8000 Double 38/28 11 Speed Chainset, (the vendor reduced price from £200 to £100 - sounds like a bargain but not sure if it is compatible).
The crank arms are Forged HollowTech II The chainrings have "spike pins" ,170mm.
This does not look like direct mount so I guess it means replacing the entire crankset if the teeth develop an issue ? (perhaps that is why it is reduced?). I would probably purchase 2 for £200 just in case.

Now I have got my head around the fact I do not need a front derailleur and can just buy a Double Chainset & switch by hand - that opens up so many options ! I have realised I can also keep a specific chain for each chainring. I will use quicklinks to make life easier.
When I think about it neither the 30T or the 38T chainring would ever be used with the whole cassette :-(11,13,15,17,19,22,25,28,32,36,42). (Realistically only 9 with each would ever be needed) . I am going to disregard chain stretch because I rotate chains and I will specifically keep a chain for each chainring .
Why the heck did I buy a 1x in the first place ?? :oops:
by Mountgrove
24 May 2022, 10:31pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Best bit of cycle kit…
Replies: 14
Views: 1071

Re: Best bit of cycle kit… Chain Wax & Connex quick-link

A clean drive train is always going to benefit any bike and other components.
These 4 Saved me loads of time/effort and enable me to prepare multiple chains to clean and rotate.
Also makes cleaning the drive train easier.
1.Topeak flash-stand (smallest stand available)
2.Connex quicklink. Expensive but worth the cost as it saves so much effort and highly reliable.
3 Chain wax. (Home made or branded).
4. Argos mini slow cooker. (Dip the chains one at a time and remove after ten mins and leave to cool).
by Mountgrove
24 May 2022, 10:04pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: 1x drivetrain 11 speed. How to change from 38T 130 BCD to smaller chainring. for 20 gear inches climbing gear.
Replies: 6
Views: 496

1x drivetrain 11 speed. How to change from 38T 130 BCD to smaller chainring. for 20 gear inches climbing gear.

Hi,
Current setup of my spare/commuting-backup/holiday bike.
1x11 drivetrain (SRAM Apex Derailleur) (SRAM 11-42t PG-1130 Cassette).
SRAM 11 speed shifter.
Connex chain / quick-link . 112 links.
Chainring 130BCD (5 bolts). allows me to use a chainring of between 38T to 44T .

I want to choose a suitable new crank-set that will allow me to have options of between 30T and 38T chainring. (Direct mount to make removal easy as possible).
Preference would also be 1x .
(IF there is a 2x and its compatible I would go for that option.)

Most of the time when commuting I use another bike and this is a spare for two purposes :
1. Spare bike for winter commuting (where I normally use 54 gear inches 95% of the time). So I use the 38T chainring with the 19t sprocket. This gets me to work and back without having to change gear. I could probably use a single-speed bike but in the summer I can use higher gears.
2. Holiday/Weekend cycling. This is the main reason I want the climbing gear of 20 inches.


So I want a crank-set that allows me to be able to switch between the 38T and install the 30T chainring. (Direct mount) This then covers me for any winter commuting, holiday cycling and anything in between.

Question A. Can this be done with a 110 BCD (direct mount) or do I need even smaller?
Question B. What would be the drawbacks (chainline, slipping etc?).
by Mountgrove
9 May 2022, 12:35pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Advice on how to replace an internally routed gear cable
Replies: 7
Views: 268

Re: Advice on how to replace an internally routed gear cable

If necessary I will change the outer casing as well. I guess this will mean the same amount of work ?
I saw someone do this with a vacuum and something on the end of the gear inner cable. So then once the inner cable is threaded through the downtube you can pull /push the outer housing over the gear cable .
by Mountgrove
9 May 2022, 11:41am
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: Advice on how to replace an internally routed gear cable
Replies: 7
Views: 268

Advice on how to replace an internally routed gear cable

Hi I have a Whyte cambridge 2018. Picture here https://www.leisurelakesbikes.com/14418 ... yblue.aspx
I have removed the gear (inner cable). I hope this can be replaced !
I was thinking along the lines of threading the new inner cable down the tube and if necessary use a magnet to get it all the way to the bottom bracket and along the chainstay so it comes out the other end at the rear derailleur.
If this fails is there any other hack I can use ?

If you tell me that I should not have removed the inner cable before inserting the new cable - does that mean I cannot use the internal route at all ? :oops:

All advice gratefully received !
by Mountgrove
30 Jul 2018, 5:54pm
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: Would an e-bike work for this commute? (Please help avoid 2nd car!)
Replies: 42
Views: 7189

Re: Would an e-bike work for this commute? (Please help avoid 2nd car!)

Hi DaveE128,
The important thing about your situation is you WANT to avoid purchasing a 2nd car. So well done to you for not polluting the enviroment!
So the thing to remember is how much would a second car cost and how much do you think you would save by using an ebike ?
In terms of effort an ebike is definitely a lot easier, but in terms of speed it is always going to be limited to approx 15.5 mph. So you will be frequently passed by fitter roadies.
I used an ebike for many years for a 6 to 12 mile commute and it was thoroughly enjoyable. It saved me a lot of time and I of course it meant I could shower before leaving for work. However there is a hidden cost in ebikes and that is the high price of battery replacement.
If you sit down and do the maths for the cost of an ebike battery (and stick to better manufacturers such as Bosch) you will soon realise that they are VERY expensive compared to any other type Electric Vehicle.
Compare the prices of an Ebike battery with that of an electric car battery (Nissan Leaf). You will soon see how the ebike manufacturers make huge profits. Of course it is possible to repair batteries (known as "re-celling" but they do not assist 3rd parties in this respect. For example they do not supply circuit diagrams to the repairers). They claim re-celling is unsafe . But they also claim their batteries are perfectly safe for usage !
Typical Ebike (Panasonic) battery (1 x 36.0V x 12.0Ah) = 0.432 KWh price is £ 700 or 0.6 Wh/£.
Nissan leaf battery (192 x 3.65V x 56.3Ah) = 39.46 kWh price is £4000 or 9.9 Wh/£.
As you can see the price of the ebike battery in Wh is about tenfold compared to a typical battery for an EV. Hence the massive profit margins.

Always bear in mind the cost of a replacement battery when calculating the cost of your ebike.

Having said all of the above - there are 3rd parties who can recell and repair your ebike battery and huge amount of guidance and help is available from the nice people on the pedelec forum (They are a helpful bunch and I can vouch for that!).

So in all honesty an ebike has a very high cost of initial outlay (£2k plus) and possible additional cost for replacement battery. You may even discover that it is NOT cheaper than using a second car.
But if you enjoy cycling and beating the traffic - perhaps the higher cost of an ebike versus a regular bike is worth it?

I have an ebike and a normal bike but I prefer using the normal bike overall. But my commute is about 2/3 rds your distance.
I like having the ebike to fall back on.
My advice would be YES buy an ebike but make sure you ask about replacement battery costs and factor this into your spend.
Mid-drive motors are better for hill climbs.
Also choose a bike with a good track record in the ebike industry (Such as Bosch motor and battery).
Make sure you have a warranty for your battery (Minimum 2 years).
It is an interesting fact to note that ebike batteries almost NEVER come with a warranty of greater than 2 years , so the manufacturers obviously know something that they do not like to admit !
Also enquire about insuring your ebike with your home insurance - you may find that they refuse to insure you.

Bottom line - ebikes are great, nice bikes and many have reliable motors (Bosch, Yamaha, Panasonic and many more). They offer good VFM.
BUT ebike batteries are a ripoff. They offer very poor VFM.

You pays your money and takes your choice.
by Mountgrove
9 Jul 2018, 9:00pm
Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
Topic: 1 by Drivetrain.
Replies: 7
Views: 622

1 by Drivetrain.

Hello,
I USED to ride an Ebike for about 3 years. Now I own a Whyte Cambridge. This has a Rear Mech SRAM Apex 1, 11 Speed & (Whyte Forged Cranks,) Direct Mount 44T Narrow Wide Chainring.
I find it a little tough to go uphill on some steeper gradients when I am loaded with panniers etc. (Let us not forget I am still finding my cycle legs !).
First option :-
My LBS says all I need is to match the BCD (130mm) and find a smaller chainring. ( I would like to try say 40T).
As it is DM does the whole crankset need to be removed when replacing the chainring ?
Also do I need to be aware of chain ring offset ?
I assume by reducing the chainring from 44t to 40t will also reduce the gear inches by 10% ? So making it easier to pedal uphill by a similar factor ?
(Assuming all other factors are the same).
I am not in a big hurry here as I have only been riding this bike for about three weeks. My LBS said I should really give it 6 weeks before changing anything .
Can someone give me a few pointers on what to buy and whether this will impact the bike in any other way. (For example will the chain need to be reduced in length and by how much?). I don't mind spending a little more to get the better options.

Second option :- maybe just get some suitable bar ends so I could come out of the saddle more easily and push up the hills ? Would this work ?
This bike is a flat bar so I don't find it easy to do this at the moment. Any suggestions for suitable bar ends ?
by Mountgrove
9 Jul 2018, 8:39pm
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: E-bikes,scooters and motorbkies
Replies: 58
Views: 3995

Re: Ebikes : The means justifes the end !

horizon wrote:
Mountgrove wrote:Hello, I have been riding an ebike for 3 years. So I thought I would add my conclusions.

So began my journey into ebike territory and I soon realised things are not as simple as they seem !

Here is what I like.

Now here is what I DISLIKE !

Please feel free to comment and I would like to hear from others who have made an ebike "journey" !


Really good summary - thanks. It's interesting to hear from someone who has actually tried an ebike and given it their best and come out the other end and back to an ordinary bike.

My concern about ebikes is that they might be taken up by non-cyclists who never get to experience what they and a bike could do. The trouble with this forum is that ebike users on here have mostly had a lifetime of cycling and know what it's like - so my argument with them is that it's the other lot I'm referring to! :D


You are so right. Some non-cyclists who purchase a £1k or £2k ebike have literally no idea what an amazing regular bike they could buy with that kind of money ! Plus they probably don't use the gears correctly. The removal of throttles from ebikes since 2015 was a good move as it means you are forced to pedal in order to move forwards - otherwise some ebikes would really just be a glorified mobility scooter that had no requirement to pedal. As for ebike detractors they should remember that if they see someone on an ebike pedalling - he may not necessarily be using assistance. I used to mix it up all the time (except for steep hills!).
by Mountgrove
9 Jul 2018, 8:22pm
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: E-bikes,scooters and motorbkies
Replies: 58
Views: 3995

Re: E-bikes,scooters and motorbkies

hemo wrote:Slightly off topic but an answer to Q8 in Mountfields dislikes;
Jimmy at BGA Reworking/Insat intl in North London about 10/15 mins walk from Bounds Green tube station.
Uses only top quality cells (generally about 6 or 7 branded cells only) for battery recells he can do Bosch /Yamaha etc just a case of keeping the BMS live during the process so comms connection isn't broken.
His prices have to be seen to be belived and are much cheaper then most budget OEM packs, his character is infectious and he treats his job more as a hobby then work.
Batteries 4 -10 days turn around and he arranges for pick up and drop off.


Dear Hemo,
You are absolutely correct about Jimmy. He is a legend. I have spoken to him. The pedelec community does have some really helpful people that can be found on the pedelec forum. But god forbid if Jimmy were to ever retire .... I am afraid battery manufacturers are only to happy to continue to rip off the pedelec community. Jimmy will tell you this himself.
by Mountgrove
12 Jun 2018, 9:47pm
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: E-bikes,scooters and motorbkies
Replies: 58
Views: 3995

Ebikes : The means justifes the end !

Hello, I have been riding an ebike for 3 years. So I thought I would add my conclusions.
I bought a european (Swiss) ebike for £2k in 2015. This is above average in price but for that I got an average front suspension hybrid bike but above average motor and battery. (Panasonic motor and battery , Shimano Nexus 8 speed hub, Schwalbe Marathon tyres and I added a Cane Creek suspension seat post and Brookes saddle for extra comfort). Plus I got 2 years warranty on the battery (The single most important component is the battery and the amount of Ah).

My background. 55yo male, average health, overweight and sciatica in my right leg. I cycled for many years in London but lost interest after being knocked over in 1998. I now live in Birmingham and work full time. My wife and I were part time carers for my mother who passed away. That is when I decided to buy an ebike. My rationale was "Walking up several flights of stairs is pointless if you could walk up a moving escalator" and "An ebike turns a slow cyclist into an average cyclist"
So began my journey into ebike territory and I soon realised things are not as simple as they seem !

Here is what I like.
1. They are fantastic for going uphill!
2. I am not a morning person and it is a quick and easy way to get to work. I dislike public transport and it is unreliable. It takes half the time on my ebike. (4 miles each way).
3. It is safe. I can sit upright and be safe in the knowledge I have enough acceleration if I need it at the press of a button (the pedal assist has 3 levels and I normally use the lowest so I have more power if required at the lights and roundabouts).
4. It is usable in almost all weather . (Very cold weather impedes battery performance and longevity).
5. It is a fun, flexible, practical commuting solution. There is nowhere to park a car in my office (City centre in Birmingham).
6. I easily carry lunch, laptop and clothing (around 5 or 6 kgs). Every day to work and back.
7. It has broadened my horizons. I visited Cotswolds many times using the train and ebike . Stratford to Cheltenham and the reverse. In the future I plan to go to Derbyshire and the Lakes.
8. Recharging takes 3hrs if it is about half empty and costs zilch (well maybe 4p!).
9. I recharge twice a week and that easily gives me 55 miles.
10. Although I was aware an ebike would not make me fitter. At least it is an easy albeit ironic way to get to the gym or swimming pool!!
11. Let me say it again they are fantastic for going uphill !!

Now here is what I DISLIKE !
1. Ebikes are heavy . Mine weighs well over 22kg. So lifting it on and off trains is a pain. Let alone trying to hang it on one of those meat hook devices on some Virgin services !
2. They are expensive. If you want a carbon frame ebike with a good motor and battery - it will cost £4k or more. This will STILL weigh around 17kg.
3. Home insurance does not cover ebikes for electric motor or electric battery failure. You will need additional insurance .
4. The cost of an ebike is about one third for battery, motor and bike. But the Battery is the single most expensive component and costs a lot to replace.(Retailers do not inform you of this). For example if you wanted an ebike with a 4 or 5 year battery warranty it is virtually impossible. You would be charged the cost of a second new battery in addition to the bike. So this is how they make huge profits.
5. If the battery failed or ran out of charge - you are stuffed. (The motors are pretty reliable in comparison). This happened to me just outside Cheltenham at the foot of a steep climb called Cleeve hill! So I had to push the damn thing and my loaded panniers uphill, then coasted downhill (they are very quick downhill because of the weight and weight distribution).
6. Needless to say riding a fully loaded ebike (without assistance) uphill is virtually impossible unless you used a granny gear of 25-20 gear inches or less all the way! (So about 2.5 mph in other words slower than getting off and pushing!).
7. Compare the prices of an Ebike battery with that of an electric car battery (Nissan Leaf). You will soon see how the ebike manufacturers make huge profits. Of course it is possible to repair batteries (known as "re-celling" but they do not assist 3rd parties in this respect. For example they do not supply circuit diagrams to the repairers). They claim re-celling is unsafe . But they also claim their batteries are perfectly safe for usage !
Typical Ebike (Panasonic) battery (1 x 36.0V x 12.0Ah) = 0.432 KWh price is £ 700 or 0.6 Wh/£.
Nissan leaf battery (192 x 3.65V x 56.3Ah) = 39.46 kWh price is £4000 or 9.9 Wh/£.
As you can see the price of the ebike battery in Wh is about tenfold compared to a typical battery for an EV. Hence the massive profit margins.
8. To find a good ebike battery repairer or "re-celler" is quite difficult - they all bemoan the lack of technical support from the big manufacturers eg Bosch, Panasonic and BMZ. Especially if they have to repair the all important BMS (Battery Management System) which is vital to the battery's operation.
Astonishingly I know of only ONE in the UK that is universally recommended by Pedelec enthusiasts. That is truly mind blowing.
9. Minor niggle - Ebike assistance is limited to a top speed of 15.5 mph. This means most road cycles can easily overtake an ebike - as trying to achieve a speed greater than 15.5mph takes more effort than it does on a normal bike!
10. Perhaps another minor niggle - they are aesthetically less pleasing than a regular bike. The battery unless frame mounted and concealed (which can be a drawback if you want to also be able to remove and charge it) are rather bulky and obtrusive looking.

So after 3 years of ebike usage - I am now ready to move into my next phase and go human only pedal power! I still love the ebike as a concept but I have concluded that the many benefits are outweighed by the expensive battery and battery replacement. I will always have an ebike and I like the option but I no longer see it as my only option. Ebikes somewhat over simplify cycling in terms of what you can achieve with your own energy.

I have experimented with my commute :
1.Regular hybrid fully loaded - under 29mins good weather . 34mins bad weather.
2.Ebike fully loaded WITHOUT pedal assist - under 36mins good weather . 39mins bad weather.
(I could easily reduce the above times if I cycled more regularly without assistance).
3.Ebike fully loaded WITH pedal assist - under 17mins good weather. 17mins bad weather. (Just use more pedal-assist!)

My new task is to choose an all round touring/commuting bike. But that is another story !
Cycling is just so much fun and so varied. I am glad I took the ebike plunge but it was only a means to a justifiable and very glorious "end"!

Please feel free to comment and I would like to hear from others who have made an ebike "journey" !
by Mountgrove
8 May 2018, 1:09pm
Forum: Does anyone know … ?
Topic: Bottom Bracket Gears?
Replies: 37
Views: 9445

Re: Bottom Bracket Gears?

Hi apologies for "resurrecting" this topic. I am a newbie.
I am in search of a Pinion bike in the UK. Preferably a "mass produced" option.
Is there a retailer or outlet in the UK that offers any bike (or ebike) with a Pinion gear box?
I like the look of this german model.

raleigh rush hour 2018 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xYkJvQtGM0

However the above Raleigh bike is not advertised for sale on Raleigh UK . I have phoned Raleigh in the UK to see if there are plans to bring it on to the UK market.
(What would be the implications for warranty if purcahsed in Germany and serviced in the UK?)

There are also Kalkhoff (ebike and non ebike) options available with Pinion : Kalkhoff Endeavour P18 Pinon Trekking Bike
Also Van Nicholas Deveron - Pinion & Titanium Touring Bicycle.
Stevens P18 Belt Drive Bike .
Any ideas where in the UK to try out one of these ?
My setup would be for touring and also day to day commuting.
(I carry a lot to work and back - laptop etc).
So I am researching a one size fits all option. (if no expense spared I would have a pinion gearbox with wide range of gearing, gates drive belt and disk brakes, front and rear pannier and lights ) .
Is there likely to be a cycle show in the Midlands (NEC?) that would have something on demo ?

From my research the Pinion is very low maintenance and the bottom bracket gearbox gives the bike much better handling ?
I would not be doing much off road so I would only require front suspension and possibly a cane creek seatpost .

I am what you might call a "slower" rider - at the moment I use a ebike for most commuting so I will not be setting any speed or distance records any time soon !
Any thoughts ?