Cycling UK Forum

Keep all the posts coming guys, its all useful
PS. .re the bob Jackson frames, my god they look stunning !

Thanks for all your input guys, it makes good reading

Keep the answers coming though . . . . .

Folks, I spend a few odd weeks in the year using an old bike for touring about on. (No camping gear, I hostel it or B/B with small ish panniers and a handlebar bag. ie travel fairly light)
As I have just enrolled on our bike to work scheme, i want to spend a bit on money, maybe £1300/£1400.
I first looked at Dawes and Ridgeback bikes, and whilst I realise Steel may be best for a touring frame, im a bit put off by the weight and the fact that those bikes seem to have running gear/brakes that arent the "Shimano's finest" (Not that im a parts snob, but I was a bit shocked when i saw the components lists !)
I dont mind a bike with discs on, but id like to have my gear changers on the brakehoods and not on the bars (It seems a few do)
One other bike that I like the look of is the Ribble CGR. Its alloy, seems to have better components than those above, but doesnt seem to be an out and out tourer.
Theres too much choice out there !!!!!!
Can anyone comment on the above please, or any helpful tips at all ?
Thanks guys

Thanks for all your answers.
The older alloy bike was made up with a "bike fit" a few years ago, I've copied those measurements to the new carbon bike .(And Brucey, youre right about the triple etc). It's about a year since I did those particular climbs and whilst I'm obviously a year older ( in my 50's), I've more miles In my legs this year and I was on my carbon at the weekend.
To that end, and with the same (ish) 28" gear ratio, in theory, the carbon bike should climb better. As you have rightly said, lots of other things play a part here. Wind, hear etc etc.

However, it's obviously possible to gain the same gear ratio on different bikes using different front and rear sprockets/chainring.
For example, to gain the same gear ratio, it's possible to use a 8 tooth chainring (!) with a 23 tooth rear (on one bike) OR a 14 tooth front with a 40 tooth rear (on another bike).
Whilst the above is only theoretical and probably not practical, which of them would climb a hill better, (the 8/23 combo or the 14/40) ?
Or neither !!!!????

Cheers

Both bikes are the same in the way they are set up etc etc

Folks, I think i may know the answer to this but can someone confirm for me . . . .

Probably three times in the last few years, I have ascended Honister, Newland and Whinlatter passes in the Lakes in one ride (ie, steep!).

The first twice i got up all the above relatively easy, on an old ish alloy bike, with a front 28 tooth chainring and a 26 tooth rear.

Yesterday, i tried the same hills on a new carbon bike with a 34 chainring and a 32 rear sprocket. I struggled like hell. Ouch indeed !!

Given that both the above ratios give about 28" (looking at gear tables/charts), can I presume that yesterdays struggle was due to the newer bike having less efficient hill climbing (front to back) gearing and my skinny legs simply couldnt push those gears (even on a far lighter bike) ???

Thanks all