Cycling UK Forum

Thanks. Again!

Perhaps I'm being thick, but I can only see the PDFs for 2018&19
Short of asking the vendor to disassemble the cassette, there appears no visual way to identify a model.

If someone offers me a Campagnolo Record cassette, how would I know whether it's a Record version, or higher/lower spec.?
All I can see stamped on the end of the cassette is the brand name and other tech info. Nothing on which model it is....

Now have a working chain, courtesy of Mr Smartlink. Had to remove the outer link section to which Campagnolo fits a label saying in no circs must I remove!
Added bike cadence/speedo (and heart rate monitor!)
Now just waiting for the next dry, fine day to give it its second try out.

PS still looking for wheels with Campagnolo freehub and 10-speed cassette to replace the Shimano ones. As a novice, I can't tell a good gear change from a bad one, but it helps my OCD to have the correct cassette to go with the Campagnolo shifters, front and rear derailleurs.

Once again, thanks to all who've given of their expertise, time and advice .

Now I'm in trouble.
I found the derailleur jockey wheels completely worn out, so new ones ordered, derailleur degreaser (mess) and wheels replaced. Now to fit my new chain...
Except my piece of crap Chinese chain tool was so imprecise, it's snapped off the rivet from the guide pin that guides it in. End result is that the rivet isn't entering the chain link straight, and I don't want to force the issue in case I damage the chain!

Any ideas, other than using a split link to join the chain?

Update
New headset (Cane Creek) fitted, but waiting for more spacers as stack height not the same.
I stripped off the flaking paint from the metal part of the front fork, primed and resprayed it.
Question re: replacing chain.
Various instructions differ on fitment-some say to fit when derailleurs are at small sprockets front and rear, others at large ones.
One suggests measuring length of new chain by going round front and back largest sprockets but not rear mech, then adding 2 links.
The others recommend cutting new chain to same length as old one (but it's stretched!)
One suggests going round large f&r sprockets, including rear mech, pulling mech forward, then giving a little slack.
Any recommendations?

PS anyone need a 10-speed Campagnolo Record chain (new, unused)?

I've removed the headset cups from the frame quite easily. The crown race too-it's split.
Ordered a new headset as the bearings in this are completely shot. The upper one has come to pieces, and the lower one is immovable by hand!
Together with a chain, this is almost doubling the bike's initial cost! I hope it's worth it-if not, someone will get a bargain if I have to sell.
Once these are on, the tyres inflated (requiring a Presta adaptor which I don't have!) and new wheels fitted, i'll report on the Ultegra/Campagnolo compatibility.
Thanks to all the helpful posts here.

Thanks folks for all this useful information.
If I can get a pair of replacement bearings, I can try to remove and replace the bearings only, but it depends on whether the crown race is good enough. I'd need to acquire special tools to remove and press in the bearings. £
If the worst comes to the worst, I can drift out the headset cups, and fit a complete new headset top and bottom, with the bearings already installed. These can come with new crown races, too. At £10-20 this seems a better bet.
I was keen on keeping things original, but it looks as if my current headset isn't original anyway
"threadless, Specialized S-Works Campagnolo Record headset "
But one if those will cost a bit too much.

Easy to drift out the headset cups?

Do steel headsets not create galvanic corrosion when paired with aluminium alloy?

I'm getting better (I think)
Am I right?
To replace the whole headset with a new unit, I drift out the two black cups from my yellow frame tube? (They appear to have a plastic skirt inside)
Then press in the new headset components, slip the appropriate crown race onto the steerer tube (having prised the existing one off)
Fit the lower bearing, fit the steerer tube in, fit the upper bearing, and tighten things up?

More Qs
Do I prise the bearing races out of the black headset cups?
I measured the stem diameter at 1" - does this mean I need a 1" headset bearing? (My simple brain tells me this, but...)

Head bearing advice needed
I've begun to address the head bearings by removing the top bearing cap.
The top bearing inner ring came off too revealing about 20x3mm ball bearings adhered with a stiff, brown paste in the bottom ring
The bearing cap says "sealed bearings"
Q. Do I simply renew the ball bearings, seeing the poor condition of the surfaces they'd run on?
Or can I drift out the bearing itself from the head housing which is Time Millenium?
And if so, any ideas on where I can get new bearings?
Presumably whichever course I take, I repeat for the bottom bearing (which is in a worse-looking state!)

let me get over getting all this stuff done first, then I'll see whether I need to replace the front chainring(s)! Hopefully not.

OK.
Got a pair of R500s with an Ultegra 10-speed cassette in good nick. Ordered head bearings and new chain. Let's see what comes out...

Thanks to every one of you who has taken the time to reply. It's helped a lot. I'll hang on at the mo' to see whether to split the S-Works until the cold light of day. Perhaps I can post a few images to help explain what I have. And I'll root out the Aldi special and have another bash on it. The biggest difference I found is that it takes lots of effort to go, and loses speed very fast, if that makes sense.
G'night all.

Re: frame damage:
As I wrote earlier, there's an extra bolt through the seat tube, which isn't helpful, and a bump under the decal on the top tube. This could be a sort of efflorescence from the alu frame, or a dent, filled then decaled over. Dealer also pointed to "corrosion" on the fork junction with the stem. The fork is Time carbon...
The stem bearing slackness was what prompted me to take it in firstly, as I'd tried to adjust but all that happened was the steering got stiffer (yes, I loosened the stem bolts) and I couldn't get rid f the play.
Then I saw the slack chain-possible to pull it clear of the large chainring.
Dealer's sure the cassette is Shimano-pointed out the mismatch.
By the time i'd:
Replaced chain, replaced the wheels, replaced the stem bearings, worried about the rear mech./gear mismatch
I'd still have a 20-year-old frame with possible defects....and a bike which is too extreme for me to make effective use of.
You lives and learns...