Cycling UK Forum

Success I think. I disassembled the setup and checked the alignment. I went through the steps and aligned the timing mark on the hub and then put the motor in the position indicated by the photo. It seems to fit together better. That didn't cure the slipping. What it was in the end, was loosening chain under tension of acceleration. I decided to rejig the manual tensioner and its perfect now. I can pull wheelies now with no slippage.

Update to the magnetic drain plug. The oil is black now after 15 miles from new. Also a small bump of fine metal particles was collected on the magnet.

So its doing its job drawing the swarf from the new hub,. I will keep a close eye every 100miles. Another little benefit is with a magnet in the plug, it sticks to the allen key so now worries of dropping whilst removal/refitting

Brucey. Thanks for the prompt reply

I did go into trim function (same as derailleur trim). It did make a bit of difference to how the shifting behaved and increased the incidence of slipping and missed gears. I will recheck the shift motor and dot alignment. Thanks

I maybe back with further questions

My first ride with a the Alfine 11 Di2 was very disappointing. I have gone with unusual gearing because it's what I wanted the bike to do.

I have a 32t crank, 23t cog. This gives me just over 20 mph and a nice low climbing gear.

The problem, is loads of slipped, crunching gears in 1 to 4 mostly. I was spinning the crank not grinding.

Gears 5 through to 11are perfect. The bike runs beautifully quiet, shifts well when pedalling. It just these slipping gears. Hub has only 15 miles !

I was going to strip it down to look inside.

Any pointers, I feel like ditching the whole Alfine and going back to single speed.

Will do, its on my brand new Alfine, zero miles

. I wanted to collect any material from the outset. it will help me decide when i need to strip and clean the hub

There doesn't seem loads of oil inside. enough to coat the drive as I spin it by hand but not swimming in oil. Should I add more?

Ive just modified my Alfine drain plug to a magnetic version

I acquired a batch of 3 mm Neodymium magnets 0.29 kg pull

I set the drain plug in a piece of alloy to hold it whilst I drilled the required hole. By the way the thread for the drain plug is 6mm by 1mm pitch

I drilled a couple of millimetres into the plug applied Araldite steel epoxy adhesive. Its oil, chemical resistant.

Set magnet in hole left to cure for a couple of hours

Ta

Hi Brucey

Ive got myself a new SG 7051 11speed to lace up. Is there any servicing that needs to do to improve service life, before lacing?

The Bafang do 48V but its not 250W. Its the BBS02.

If you buy the right TSDZ2, you can have 52V.

Less current, same power, cooler running

I like to hear two pops as the tyre seats on the rim. I use a compressor to force lots of air volume to quickly seat the tyre

Once the tyre is on, I then remove about 6" with tyre levers, turn one lever sideways to create an opening. Pour in 75 millilitres of Orange seal 'Endurance'

I then roll the fluid to the other side and refit the bead Ive just lifted. Inflate to max recommended pressure.

Roll the wheel in all directions to coat the entire insides.

I use Stans rim tape, two layers, making a robust protection against spoke hole blow through. Get the correct width for your wheels, clean carefully with alcohol before fitting tape.

It requires 50kW of energy to create 1kg of hydrogen.

So its still requires more energy to make than it produces

If I was commuting all year round, I would invest in a S Pedelec, upto 28mph 1000W motors, large battery.

Downside only a few

Cost, they are pricey
Need a CBT or full driving license.
paperwork and insurance.

I cant understand the price premium for the kit and bike. An excellent motorcycle would be equal in cost

You could with a kit which if you choose carefully will allow a bit more speed than 15 and more power to climb

or look at a S pedelec. These go upto 28mph and 1000W. You need a full driving license prior to 2001 or CBT

They come registered with the DVLA and require 3rd party insurance. But they will move you at a decent pace.

The kits are by far the cheapest, the S-Peds are a total legal way to get 28mph

This website has some popular and expensive https://urbanebikes.com/collections/speed-pedelec

Scott do this https://www.scott-sports.com/gb/en/prod ... 0-men-bike

There are others. You will see why the kits are popular and careful setup will give you a proportion of performance at a fraction of the S-peds

I think said young lady poster has left due to bickering

Personal choice would be to get a simple, but comfortable bike with disc brakes(hydraulic) Drop in a Tongscheng or Bafang motor kit.

Kits take very little to fit, any competent bike shop or home cycle enthusiast can do it. It took me about an hour to fit the kit and another couple of hours to tidy up all the excess wiring to make a neat water resistance job

I did this for my wife, with a Tongscheng TSDZ2 kit. She immediately went from zero to 20 miles with little effort. We now ride at a higher pace, she actually leads me up hills now

Here is her bike, cost less than £1100 for everything

Ill be there in March too. Ive been half a dozen times, so are quite familiar with the main climbs.

I use Tenerife bike training for arranging my trips

If you're of average weight 70-80 kg. then you will probably get by on with the gearing. Most folk use 50/34 and 11-32 cass. The gradients arent too steep average 6-7%. but can go upto 11% in sections

Im a big rider 100kg and have fitted a triple to my bike 50/36/26. 11-40 cass. I will use the inner ring for a couple of days then usually end on the 36 ring and use the 35t cass cog.

If riding every day take your time to get use to the climbs and distance. Weather can be changeable on top, from glorious to bloody freezing. Take wind gillet , the fast descents are cold, plus gloves. Once above Vilaflor, there are no cafes apart from hotel Parador

The climbs can take a few hours if going to the top of Teide