Cycling UK Forum

.

Thanks for that.
Yes for some reason I had it in my head that the shifter for this hub was the trigger type, similar to the old SA.
I have the hub totally stripped down, the condition overall is good, and I have new shift pins, I got a set from holland for just a few Ukp.
The Pull must be the same across the hubs then, maybe sachs realised a solid shift wire isnt the way to go and used a bowden cable with a spring in the clickbox.

The seller hadnt used the bicycle since the 90's so it wasnt built this century.
Theres a little spring in there its only for the lo/hi mech.
Dont you approve of this kind of hub brucy?
They seem to fetch a few bob on ebay.

Here's my clickbox

Thats a generous offer cheers.
However my clickbox is totally different, I'll take a pic when I get home tonite, mine doesnt have an indicator window.
I'm also thinking mine never had a return spring, maybe its an older version, I thought the seller just chucked in any old cable but it does look like the cable was used with the clickbox at some point.

I have the hub, the click box with 2 pushrods and the shift cable, but not the bit that goes on the handlebars.
My shift cable has a solid centre wire, and there doesnt appear to be much tension pulling the shift cable centre wire back to its home position, so I'm assuming that the shifter pulls the cable out to shift one way and physically shoves it back it to shift the other way.
I'm assuming its a spectro as it has the indentations in the hub shell, and its from the 90's.

I got one of these a while back from ebay for dirt cheap.
It s all there except the shifter, I've been looking on ebay and other sites for someone selling a shifter, but they all seem to have stranded cables, this one came with a solid wire cable, looks as though it pushes as well as pulls in the cable.
What sort of thing would I be looking for, and could I adapt something else, I'm handy at making stuff.

I've converted a bicycle to electric, a road legal 36v 250 watt job.
3 or 4 years back it cost around 350 notes for one with a 15ah battery, which is much more than you'd need if your going to pedal.
Things to watch out for, making sure your frame is wide enough to take the wheel (Oln), somewhere to put the electrics and battery (you can buy frame mount battery boxes), wiring - not technically demanding but some basic knowledge is required, and depending how you setup the battery connector may need soldering (you could someone to do that).
Maintenance:- popular road legal motors tend to be geared, thertes 3 gears inside, these should be checked now & again & changed when worn.
Use puncture resistant tyres, the motor wiring makes it tricky to fix a puncture on the road / trail.
And stick to a legal setup.

For my commuter I stay away from exotic stuff, for various reasons including theft.
I sorted it out yorkshire style, for nothing.
My junk box had a shimano deraileur marked SIS, its a Rd-r552, and had a hanger mount.
I managed to disassemble my 400Lx and this one and came up with a suitable unit thats in very good condition, and works like it meant to, no more messing around shifting.
I'm still going to get myself a spare tho.

I got it, but messed up explaining it.
7, 8 & 9 shifters pull differently, but work with the same deraileur.
Theres only one spacing for shimano 7, 8 & 9 speeds, ie there isnt different spacing versions for 7's for example.

Ok I'm learning.
So I'm assuming this is correct, 7,8,& 9 speed cassette's & freewheels have the same spacing between sprockets, and shimano deraileurs have the same cable pull distance to cage movement ratio's, thats cool to know if its correct.
I did some research on smart cages, it doesnt specify cage length it sjust a means of pulling the chain without splitting the cage.
I found a cool website that shows you how to calc cage length, looks like loosing my likkle sprocket on the front will take me from a long cage to a medium or short, its also interesting to know shortening the cage increases the tension on the slack side of the chain.

I have a trek 6000 vintage Mtb from the 90's, it has exage 400 lx shifters.
The rear is worn to the point its falling apart and is starting to phantom shift, new pulleys fixed it last year but now I think its done its time.
Rather than buy another worn out one on ebay I want to fit something newer.
I see sjs sell a shimano acera Rd-M360, seeing as my original is a Rd-M300 is sounds close.
The direct mounts on these look the same, is the pull going to be similar on a 8 speed to that of a 7 speed, and is the smart cage on the acera similarish to the lx 400 (its stamped sgs), I deleted the smallest chainring on the front so I dont spose I need the same distance between pulleys.

Just so happens I've been messing wih my shimano dynamo.
I run an adaptor to go from center lock to 6 bolt, the center lock nut that came with the adaptor kit also says 40nm (30 ft/lb).
Shimano are quite good with data and drawings, try googling for the specs its probably listed somewhere.
I notice rear cassette nuts are very similar and are rated for 40nm too.

Gad you guys found it useful, I keep posting for that reason and as an appreciation for those that help me.
I have some metal epoxy putty I've use for repairing bearing housings on industrial stuff in an emergency, I might try some of that, if its the last time I work on the hub it'd probably give another years service, which would be enough.
I made the octagon tool from 6mm ally treadplate, it didnt even mark the hub cap paint, if I'd have used this from the start you wouldnt have know I'd been messing with the hub.
I'm toying with the idea of changing the shimano for a sturmey archer dynamo / drum brake, I know they dont brake as good but I'd loose the 'eeek' and the perpetual warped disc shudder every time I pull the brake lever.

Sound suggestion about having the cone and bearings in place, they'd have to be loose of course to allow movement of the cap.
Well it didn't work out so well, building it back up the cone rubbed on the octagon, so I tried another little tap with the socket to shift it back into place, broke one of the octagon flats off, oops.
Not so ductile after all, before I did this I drilled a small hole at the end of the crack as it wanted to go along the surface of the cap, thanks to this it did not and it looks like theres no major weakening of the cap except for the missing piece, the seal cup is on show, there may be some means for water to get in behind the seal cup but I think it'll last the summer.
I now get 40 volts ac when I spin the heck out of it with no load.
Fitting the seal on the left side was tricky, I put the seal in, then put the cone in, and tightened, shifted the seal, and repeated till it was all the way in. Thanks for the help people.