Search found 2819 matches
- 2 Apr 2024, 8:58am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Dynamo carbon fork mounting options
- Replies: 24
- Views: 1068
Re: Dynamo carbon fork mounting options
You can buy adaptors to mount a lamp on the end of an axle. You get quite a good beam, although it's a little more vulnerable to knocks.
- 2 Apr 2024, 7:17am
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: eBay listing offers
- Replies: 5
- Views: 346
Re: eBay listing offers
How do they make money?plancashire wrote: ↑1 Apr 2024, 7:32pm Strange, here in Germany I have never paid fees to eBay for selling, right from the first item about a year ago.
- 2 Apr 2024, 7:16am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: towbar bike rack's license plate
- Replies: 4
- Views: 213
Re: towbar bike rack's license plate
We normally call it a "number plate" in the UK - you might get blank looks in the shop otherwise.
- 1 Apr 2024, 7:30pm
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: eBay listing offers
- Replies: 5
- Views: 346
Re: eBay listing offers
It means sellers create lots of empty "coming soon" listings to lock in the offer. Very annoying.
- 1 Apr 2024, 7:29pm
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: Why was this 3 speed hub so cheap?
- Replies: 17
- Views: 1560
Re: Why was this 3 speed hub so cheap?
The standard AW crumbles in tandem use. The planet pinions can't take it.Carlton green wrote: ↑31 Mar 2024, 7:37pmIt looks like you’ve got a mid drive motor on that bike? The SA AW has a reputation for robustness, but how much power you can reliably put through them I’m not so sure. It’ll be interesting to see how you get on.
- 31 Mar 2024, 8:30am
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: Why was this 3 speed hub so cheap?
- Replies: 17
- Views: 1560
Re: Why was this 3 speed hub so cheap?
The SRC3 can be had with a 175mm axle (not in Europe - I had to get an axle via the USA), and the SRF3 probably can, too.
Swapping an axle is not a trivial job if you've not been inside a SA hub before, but you can leave pawls and other sub-assemblies intact. If the hub has been used, it would be best to completely disassemble it, degrease it, and build it up again. "Greased and sealed for life" really means "ongoing massive maintenance headache every year or two".
Swapping an axle is not a trivial job if you've not been inside a SA hub before, but you can leave pawls and other sub-assemblies intact. If the hub has been used, it would be best to completely disassemble it, degrease it, and build it up again. "Greased and sealed for life" really means "ongoing massive maintenance headache every year or two".
- 30 Mar 2024, 3:50pm
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: Pricing policy.
- Replies: 5
- Views: 513
Re: Pricing policy.
At some point you have to "upgrade" because the stuff you want is no longer made. Chains are ok but good quality 7-9 speed cassettes are getting more difficult. Rear mech compatibility was also broken with 11 speed.
- 27 Mar 2024, 8:28am
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: Spa Cycles Tourer 540- frame alloy info for repair
- Replies: 13
- Views: 1139
Re: Spa Cycles Tourer 540- frame alloy info for repair
I've seen more photos of cracked steel or Ti frames (the supposedly everlasting materials) than any other material.
Ti is especially treacherous to weld correctly, snd cheap Ti is highly likely to crack within a few years. Steel is easier to weld but you still get the odd bad frame, and thin-walled tubing is less forgiving than the gaspipe they use on Apollos or Universals. Unless you see the discolouration of the frame before it's been blasted and painted, you have no idea if it was locally overheated.
My theory is that the fatigue limit only gets you so far; an overheated joint means the metal starts off weaker, and the kind of life a bike frame leads means it gets occasional overloads that may exceed the fatigue limit locally, like hitting potholes with a heavy rider in the saddle.
Ti is especially treacherous to weld correctly, snd cheap Ti is highly likely to crack within a few years. Steel is easier to weld but you still get the odd bad frame, and thin-walled tubing is less forgiving than the gaspipe they use on Apollos or Universals. Unless you see the discolouration of the frame before it's been blasted and painted, you have no idea if it was locally overheated.
My theory is that the fatigue limit only gets you so far; an overheated joint means the metal starts off weaker, and the kind of life a bike frame leads means it gets occasional overloads that may exceed the fatigue limit locally, like hitting potholes with a heavy rider in the saddle.
- 25 Mar 2024, 6:25pm
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: Spa Cycles Tourer 540- frame alloy info for repair
- Replies: 13
- Views: 1139
Re: Spa Cycles Tourer 540- frame alloy info for repair
I'm afraid I'm not a brazing expert. Silver braze aka solder is the kindest to tubing but isn't generally used for fillets.kitaan wrote: ↑24 Mar 2024, 12:42pmThanks. I've got silicon bronze rather than brass- any reason that won't be suitable?rogerzilla wrote: ↑23 Mar 2024, 9:05pm That should be ok with a brass fillet. I thought it would be one of those corkscrew cracks you often see at the base of the seat tube.
- 23 Mar 2024, 9:05pm
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: Spa Cycles Tourer 540- frame alloy info for repair
- Replies: 13
- Views: 1139
Re: Spa Cycles Tourer 540- frame alloy info for repair
That should be ok with a brass fillet. I thought it would be one of those corkscrew cracks you often see at the base of the seat tube.
- 23 Mar 2024, 3:26pm
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: Spa Cycles Tourer 540- frame alloy info for repair
- Replies: 13
- Views: 1139
Re: Spa Cycles Tourer 540- frame alloy info for repair
540 is just the frame size in mm. The main frame is probably Reynolds 725 but the other tubes may be unbranded chromoly.
I'm not sure I'd bother welding it as it's quite likely to crack again due to the extra metal acting as a stress raiser, and the tubing was probably already overheated at that spot. If you just want to get another year out of it, maybe.
I'm not sure I'd bother welding it as it's quite likely to crack again due to the extra metal acting as a stress raiser, and the tubing was probably already overheated at that spot. If you just want to get another year out of it, maybe.
- 22 Mar 2024, 8:14pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Checking Slime-tube pressure?
- Replies: 6
- Views: 325
Re: Checking Slime-tube pressure?
10 or 2 o'clock doesn't work, as some stays in the valve stem. I've tried various permutations.
- 22 Mar 2024, 2:53pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Checking Slime-tube pressure?
- Replies: 6
- Views: 325
Re: Checking Slime-tube pressure?
Put the valve at 5 o'clock or 7 o'clock, wait 5-10 minutes, then attach your pump and check the pressure.
With butyl tubes, a typical road tyre only needs air every three weeks before it's lost enough to affect anything. Lower-pressure tyres can go longer than that.
With butyl tubes, a typical road tyre only needs air every three weeks before it's lost enough to affect anything. Lower-pressure tyres can go longer than that.
- 22 Mar 2024, 2:51pm
- Forum: Off-road Cycling.
- Topic: Tire sealant question
- Replies: 17
- Views: 5898
Re: Tire sealant question
I would guess it's because the majority of English speakers spell it "tire", however much we might dislike USian spelling.
- 22 Mar 2024, 10:48am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Is this terminal?
- Replies: 50
- Views: 2616
Re: Is this terminal?
Isn't that just flaking powdercoat?