Search found 37 matches
- 11 Sep 2013, 9:21pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Lights again! Philips Safetride 80 or B&M Ixon experiences?
- Replies: 30
- Views: 8205
Re: Lights again! Philips Safetride 80 or B&M Ixon experien
I can vouch for the customer care given by B&M. I broke the battery compartment catch on my Ixon IQ when a took a tumble on some ice. It was about 3 years old but I e-mailed B&M with a photograph of the broken clip to see if I could buy a spare part. I received two spare clips free of charge from Germany within a few days!
- 21 May 2011, 1:16pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Any 2011 Specialized Tricross Opinions?
- Replies: 16
- Views: 5710
Re: Any 2011 Specialized Tricross Opinions?
I have a 2008 Comp. It suffered from the brake judder issue which has since been rectified and I believe resolved on the new models by fitting V brakes. The question I'd ask yourself is are you happy to live with the toe overlap issue? I realise these are not the only bikes to suffer this, but it does limit the use of the bike in the winter months if you like to use a full front mudguard.
- 22 Apr 2011, 9:41pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Headset - bottom fixed cup is loose
- Replies: 17
- Views: 3576
Re: Headset - bottom fixed cup is loose
I had an 80's Claud Butler and noticed that the bottom cup was loose. I was going to try loctite to hold it but as I attempted to degrease the seating area I noticed that the head tube had a tiny split in it. It was barely visible but the soft cloth that I was using on it was catching on it. It would be worth inspecting the tube for any any damage.
- 17 Mar 2011, 10:54pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Busch + Müller IXON IQ : Edit: Dynamo
- Replies: 13
- Views: 1749
Re: Busch + Müller IXON IQ
I use 2500mah NiMH from Aldi and get what I consider a good time between recharge. On 1/2 power it will last at least 5 hours. 1/2 power is ample unless you are riding on completely unlit roads or paths. I think a set of 4 from Aldi are only around £3.
One thing I would like to point out is the excellent after sales service from Busch + Müller. At the start of this year I fell off on some ice. It was only the 2nd outing for a new mountain bike - but luckily myself and the new bike were unscathed, but the IXON IQ hit the floor and the clip that holds the battery compartment shut broke. I was planning on drilling a small hole and putting a bolt through to secure it but noticed that I could remove the broken clip from the main body of the light. I e-mailed Busch + Müller and they sent me two replacement clips free of charge within a couple of days. Admittedly the little clip must only be worth pence, but the light was 2 or 3 years old and I would have gladly paid a tenner to get it fixed.
One thing I would like to point out is the excellent after sales service from Busch + Müller. At the start of this year I fell off on some ice. It was only the 2nd outing for a new mountain bike - but luckily myself and the new bike were unscathed, but the IXON IQ hit the floor and the clip that holds the battery compartment shut broke. I was planning on drilling a small hole and putting a bolt through to secure it but noticed that I could remove the broken clip from the main body of the light. I e-mailed Busch + Müller and they sent me two replacement clips free of charge within a couple of days. Admittedly the little clip must only be worth pence, but the light was 2 or 3 years old and I would have gladly paid a tenner to get it fixed.
- 3 Jan 2011, 12:00pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Need To Be More Upright...But How?
- Replies: 26
- Views: 1762
Re: Need To Be More Upright...But How?
horizon wrote:Chris Clode wrote: I eventually found that the best solution for me was a head extender. It raises the handlebars approx. 2 inches which sets my bars to the same height as my saddle.
By which you mean stem raiser (just to keep things clear on the thread). Or to be more exact, steerer tube replacement bit?
While we are at it, wouldn't it be a good idea to instruct CTC's solicitors to launch a class action on behalf of thousands of aggrieved cyclists against the numpties who cut them off in the first place?
Yes I think stem raiser is the term. "Satori Heads Up" is the exact item that I am using:
http://www.discountbicycles.co.uk/biz/product.php?xProd=4702
- 2 Jan 2011, 8:18pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Need To Be More Upright...But How?
- Replies: 26
- Views: 1762
Re: Need To Be More Upright...But How?
I had exactly the same issue with my Ridgeback Voyage that I use for commuting. After trying various stems, including an adjustable one, I eventually found that the best solution for me was a head extender. It raises the handlebars approx. 2 inches which sets my bars to the same height as my saddle. On the pictures you can see that I'm also using a shorter stem that the one that came supplied with the bike. If you are interested I'll be happy to provide more measurements or details on the extender that I bought.
http://picasaweb.google.com/chrisclodes/2011_01_02#5557682459809944482
http://picasaweb.google.com/chrisclodes/2011_01_02#5557682467368906674
http://picasaweb.google.com/chrisclodes/2011_01_02#5557682459809944482
http://picasaweb.google.com/chrisclodes/2011_01_02#5557682467368906674
- 5 Aug 2010, 11:02pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Alexrims DH19 (pics attached)
- Replies: 40
- Views: 13147
Re: Alexrims DH19 (pics attached)
I had the same rims on my Ridegback voyage. After about 3000 miles I wore through the wear indicator on the back wheel. This was using it for about 20 months on a 20 mile commute in all weathers 9a lot of it wet in South Wales), with at least half of the journey on a canal path. I think I probably wore about 3 sets of brake blocks out in that time.
Now I do ride over some pretty severe pot holes etc which are unavoidable on certain sections and I do kerb hop, but my rims were still good apart from the rim wear. I'm fairly lightweight ( about 11 stone) and only carry a change of cloths and perhaps a packed lunch.
I would agree with most of the other posts that your rims were faulty.
Now I do ride over some pretty severe pot holes etc which are unavoidable on certain sections and I do kerb hop, but my rims were still good apart from the rim wear. I'm fairly lightweight ( about 11 stone) and only carry a change of cloths and perhaps a packed lunch.
I would agree with most of the other posts that your rims were faulty.
- 15 Jun 2010, 10:31pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Touring bike frame size
- Replies: 20
- Views: 1908
Re: Touring bike frame size
Isn't the Revolution Explorer only available in 46, 49 and 52cm?
I'd assumed they are measuring the sloping tube, so the 49cm would be the medium option.
I'd assumed they are measuring the sloping tube, so the 49cm would be the medium option.
- 10 Oct 2009, 8:47pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Which bike - advice please ....
- Replies: 20
- Views: 1407
Re: Which bike - advice please ....
I’ve not ridden a Kona Jake, but I do have a Specialised Tricross Sport which I imagine is similar. I also commute a similar distance and road mix to you.
I have found my Ridgeback Voyage (steel framed tourer) to be a far better commuter bike to the specialised. As many of the other posts here have pointed out, the reasons I favour the Ridgeback are:
(a) It came fitted with a good set of mudguards and racks;
(b) It gives a slightly more relaxed riding position (this may be personal preference);
(c) It doesn’t suffer from toe overlap which can be a problem if you weave in traffic;
(d) There are many reports of serious front fork judder when combining carbon forks and cantilever brakes. My tricross suffered terribly with this, and eventually had the dealer fitted v-brakes to cure the problem My brother also had the problem with a Cannondale, and after months of trying to cure the problem he had a full refund. I can’t say if the Jake suffers, but it would be worth doing a search on the web to see if there are any reports;
(e) It was half the price of the tricross!
I have found my Ridgeback Voyage (steel framed tourer) to be a far better commuter bike to the specialised. As many of the other posts here have pointed out, the reasons I favour the Ridgeback are:
(a) It came fitted with a good set of mudguards and racks;
(b) It gives a slightly more relaxed riding position (this may be personal preference);
(c) It doesn’t suffer from toe overlap which can be a problem if you weave in traffic;
(d) There are many reports of serious front fork judder when combining carbon forks and cantilever brakes. My tricross suffered terribly with this, and eventually had the dealer fitted v-brakes to cure the problem My brother also had the problem with a Cannondale, and after months of trying to cure the problem he had a full refund. I can’t say if the Jake suffers, but it would be worth doing a search on the web to see if there are any reports;
(e) It was half the price of the tricross!
- 23 Sep 2009, 9:17pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Roval Pave SL
- Replies: 3
- Views: 1840
Re: Roval Pave SL
I have a Roval Pave on my Specialised Tricross and have had problems with the cassette digging into the alloy hub, as shown in the following post. This allows some play in the cassette and results creaking noises under heavy load.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=16813
My main concern is that replacement hubs don’t appear to be readily available. I’d recommend sticking to a shimano set up, at least spares are easily sourced
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=16813
My main concern is that replacement hubs don’t appear to be readily available. I’d recommend sticking to a shimano set up, at least spares are easily sourced
- 3 Jul 2009, 9:21pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Cyclo-Cross vs Touring advice wanted
- Replies: 21
- Views: 5977
Re: Cyclo-Cross vs Touring advice wanted
I'm in a good position to comment on this one, as I ride the big brother of the Tricross Sport, the Tricross Comp, and the Ridgeback Voyage, bought 18 months and 8 months ago respectively.
My advice, any day of the week, would be to go with the Ridgeback.
I'm another owner that has been disappointed with the Tricross with the following reasons:
(1) front fork vibration, it seems the carbon forks don't really work with the cantilevers.
(2) Noisy transmission due to the SRAM cassette designed with missing teeth
(3) Weak freewheel hub which constantly creaks
(4) Excessive toe overlap.
I don't really have a good word to say for the Tricross, and as I've pointed out on many other posts on this forum. The Ridgeback Voyage cost less than half the price and feels much better built.
The Ridgeback is lovely. No fork judder, no noisy rear mechanism, no play in the hub due to the crappy Roval alloy hub. Every time I ride the Tricross I find something to complain about, yet the Ridgeback just goes on and on without fault. It’s hard to believe I’m comparing a £1200 Tricross against a £550 Ridgeback.
I’m sure if I had been given both bikes, with all badges and markings removed, I would have guessed that the Ridgeback was the £1200 machine, and the Tricross was a top of the range model from Asda.
My advice, any day of the week, would be to go with the Ridgeback.
I'm another owner that has been disappointed with the Tricross with the following reasons:
(1) front fork vibration, it seems the carbon forks don't really work with the cantilevers.
(2) Noisy transmission due to the SRAM cassette designed with missing teeth
(3) Weak freewheel hub which constantly creaks
(4) Excessive toe overlap.
I don't really have a good word to say for the Tricross, and as I've pointed out on many other posts on this forum. The Ridgeback Voyage cost less than half the price and feels much better built.
The Ridgeback is lovely. No fork judder, no noisy rear mechanism, no play in the hub due to the crappy Roval alloy hub. Every time I ride the Tricross I find something to complain about, yet the Ridgeback just goes on and on without fault. It’s hard to believe I’m comparing a £1200 Tricross against a £550 Ridgeback.
I’m sure if I had been given both bikes, with all badges and markings removed, I would have guessed that the Ridgeback was the £1200 machine, and the Tricross was a top of the range model from Asda.
- 12 May 2009, 9:38pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Which Bike For Tour?
- Replies: 17
- Views: 1286
Re: Which Bike For Tour?
I have a Ridgeback Voyage which is a cheaper version of the Panorama World. I think the Ridgeback would be more suitable than the Focus for the Denmark to Belgium tour. I used to have a flat bar Marin Fairfax Hybrid bike for my 20 mile daily commute to work, which I swapped on and off with the Ridgeback. After a couple of months I sold the Marin as I found the flat bar position more tiring.
- 10 May 2009, 10:44am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Tyre Wall Splitting
- Replies: 11
- Views: 3507
Re: Tyre Wall Splitting
I had the same problem on the Kenda City tyres that came fitted to a new Marin Fairfax. The split appeared within a few months. I complained to the shop, and although they said that split was only superficial, but they did change them. However, the replacements split in exactly the same way within a very short time. I do use a track pump, and I'm relatively light (72Kgs).
I do find that the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres that I usually use have the same problem, where they always split where the reflective strip sits. If I take the tyre off, there is no sign of the split on the internal wall, so I take the risk and continue to use them. This has happened to all four sets of Marathon plus tyres I’ve had, and I would change to another brand, but for daily commuting I’ve not heard of anything that can match their puncture proofing.
I do find that the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres that I usually use have the same problem, where they always split where the reflective strip sits. If I take the tyre off, there is no sign of the split on the internal wall, so I take the risk and continue to use them. This has happened to all four sets of Marathon plus tyres I’ve had, and I would change to another brand, but for daily commuting I’ve not heard of anything that can match their puncture proofing.
- 1 May 2009, 9:50pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Specialized Tricross Sport 2009 Road Bike
- Replies: 7
- Views: 3499
Re: Specialized Tricross Sport 2009 Road Bike
I'm in a good position to comment on this one, as I ride the big brother of the Tricross Sport, the Tricross Comp, and th elittle brother of the Ridgemack Panorama, the Voyage.I
My advice, any day of the week, would be to go with the Ridgeback
I've been disappointed with it, with the following problems:
(1) front fork vibration, it seems the carbon forks don't really work with the cantilevers.
(2) Noisy transmission due to the SRAM cassette designed with missing teeth
(3) Weak freewheel hub which constantly creaks
(4) Excessive toe overlap.
I don't really have a good word to say for the Tricross, and as I've pointed out on one of the posts below, the Ridgeback Voyage which cost less than half the price and feels much better built.
The Ridgeback is lovely. No fork judder, no noisy rear mechanism due to the toothless SRAM cassette, no play in the hub due to the crappy Roval alloy hub. Every time I ride the Tricross I find something to complain about, yet the Ridgeback just goes on and on without fault. It’s hard to believe I’m comparing a £1200 Tricross against a £500 Ridgeback.
I’m sure if I had been given both bikes, with all badges and markings removed, I would have guessed that the Ridgeback was the £1200 machine, and the Tricross was a top of the range model from Asda.
I've raised these problems on this forum before, and it seems that Specialized aren't the only ones to have problems with fork vibration.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=22702&p=181496#p181496
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2704&p=112122#p112122
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2704&p=106184#p106184
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=16813&p=133899#p133899
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=15000&p=117131#p117131
My advice, any day of the week, would be to go with the Ridgeback
I've been disappointed with it, with the following problems:
(1) front fork vibration, it seems the carbon forks don't really work with the cantilevers.
(2) Noisy transmission due to the SRAM cassette designed with missing teeth
(3) Weak freewheel hub which constantly creaks
(4) Excessive toe overlap.
I don't really have a good word to say for the Tricross, and as I've pointed out on one of the posts below, the Ridgeback Voyage which cost less than half the price and feels much better built.
The Ridgeback is lovely. No fork judder, no noisy rear mechanism due to the toothless SRAM cassette, no play in the hub due to the crappy Roval alloy hub. Every time I ride the Tricross I find something to complain about, yet the Ridgeback just goes on and on without fault. It’s hard to believe I’m comparing a £1200 Tricross against a £500 Ridgeback.
I’m sure if I had been given both bikes, with all badges and markings removed, I would have guessed that the Ridgeback was the £1200 machine, and the Tricross was a top of the range model from Asda.
I've raised these problems on this forum before, and it seems that Specialized aren't the only ones to have problems with fork vibration.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=22702&p=181496#p181496
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2704&p=112122#p112122
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2704&p=106184#p106184
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=16813&p=133899#p133899
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=15000&p=117131#p117131
- 7 Apr 2009, 10:41pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Help me decide between these 2 bikes
- Replies: 6
- Views: 819
Re: Help me decide between these 2 bikes
I agree with gbnz with the poor quality of the Specialized. I have the big brother of the Tricross Sport, the Tricross Comp. I've been disappointed with it, with the following problems:
(1) front fork vibration, it seems the carbon forks don't really work with the cantilevers.
(2) Noisy transmission due to the SRAM cassette designed with missing teeth
(3) Weak freewheel hub which constantly creaks
(4) Excessive toe overlap, which I'd be worried about if you are new to road bikes.
I don't really have a good word to say for it, and as I've pointed out on one of the posts below, I've also got a Ridgeback Voyage which cost less than half the price and feels much better built.
If I was thinking of LEJG I'd consider the Ridgeback Panorama.
I've raised these problems on this forum before, and it seems that Specialized aren't the only ones to have problems with fork vibration.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=22702&p=181496#p181496
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2704&p=112122#p112122
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2704&p=106184#p106184
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=16813&p=133899#p133899
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=15000&p=117131#p117131
(1) front fork vibration, it seems the carbon forks don't really work with the cantilevers.
(2) Noisy transmission due to the SRAM cassette designed with missing teeth
(3) Weak freewheel hub which constantly creaks
(4) Excessive toe overlap, which I'd be worried about if you are new to road bikes.
I don't really have a good word to say for it, and as I've pointed out on one of the posts below, I've also got a Ridgeback Voyage which cost less than half the price and feels much better built.
If I was thinking of LEJG I'd consider the Ridgeback Panorama.
I've raised these problems on this forum before, and it seems that Specialized aren't the only ones to have problems with fork vibration.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=22702&p=181496#p181496
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2704&p=112122#p112122
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2704&p=106184#p106184
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=16813&p=133899#p133899
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=15000&p=117131#p117131