Cycling UK Forum

Northeastperson

Jdsk wrote: ↑20 Dec 2021, 11:42am 700x38c in ISO is 38-622.

I don't understand how the options work on that page:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/wtb ... -prod58737

What sizes are they offering, please?

Jonathan

I don't really understand what you mean. There aren't any options. It says for wheel size 700, width 38, presta valve 40mm. I guess I already whittled it down going through the site's search box.

There's this page https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/tube they have which has all their inner tubes and then you can filter your search.

Northeastperson

On my bike tyres it says

700×38c
38 622

The presta valve sticks out from the rim just under 30mm.

Would these inner tubes be suitable? I won't bother with the ones that have sealant. I need help or there's a big danger I'll make a twattish purchase.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mob ... -prod58737

I tried the Sheldon Brown article on inner tubes but it was so complicated and drawn out I nearly started crying!

Northeastperson

Thanks for all the advice. I've been sufficiently put off the sealant idea. I don't see how people avoid losing some air when pumping the tyres up. If that leads to sealant clogging the valve I think I'll forget about it.

Dumb question about tyres/inner tubes. Why aren't they sold in diameter or circumference cms/inches? What is the cc unit in a 700 cc tyre?

Northeastperson

Worried newbie cyclist here.

I was interested in buying an inner tube like this one: https://road.cc/content/review/81257-sl ... inner-tube

Only they don't go up to my tyre width which is 38. Do other companies make something similar? I'm still only doing modest length rides in my home area so in the event of a puncture I'd rather just be able to cycle home than mess about changing an inner tube at the roadside.

Northeastperson

The OP reminds me of myself a bit because since I bought a bike 6 weeks ago I've been watching youTube bike tour videos. I'm now dreaming of going somewhere on a long trip despite the fact that my bike fitness is still quite low and my longest adventure has been about 25 kilometres in the surrounding area. I get home semi-knackered

. But I have actually bought a bike.

Northeastperson

peetee wrote: ↑3 Dec 2021, 10:13pm Sounds about right for the grade of components you have on the bike. That said, I have heard a lot smoother from them when the chain is upgraded to, say, a KMC X8, for example and kept adequately lubed. Budget 7, 8 and 9 speed chains can be quite crude and noisy.
It would be worth having it looked at professionally anyway. And not by the place you bought it. They have left the front mech positioning sticker in place. I see this a lot, it sometimes causes noise issues on its own but even if it doesn’t the fact it is there at all suggests to me that the level of preparation and/or pre-sales checking is less than adequate.

I guess the online shop I bought the bike from doesn't even open the box that came from China? They just pass it on to the purchaser?

If I got this from Amazon
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B004TGL2K8#Ask the shifting is going to sound slick? I must look into this

Northeastperson

Jdsk wrote: ↑3 Dec 2021, 8:39pm Same bike as here:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=148869&p=1656075#p1656075
?

Thanks

Jonathan

Yes I don't run to two bikes.

Northeastperson

Hi newbie worried cyclist here.

Since I got my bike a few weeks back I've had trouble at times changing up on the chainring. I've only finally learnt that I have to give the lever a hard push in one movement to get it to change.

Oops I've accidentally posted this too soon. That's what happens when you use your phone

Hang on. More to come.

... Anyway I've been messing around with the tension cable for the front derailleur and I'd like to know if this is an acceptable level of clanking or grinding noise when changing up.

Northeastperson

Jdsk wrote: ↑27 Nov 2021, 12:37pm
Northeastperson wrote: ↑27 Nov 2021, 12:03pmI feel the site should have another section for total beginner bike maintenance numpties. I feel I'm stinking out this part of the forum.
Don't feel like that. : - )

I recommend

Sheldon Brown:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com

Park Tool Repair Help:
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

Jonathan

Thanks for the advice Jonathan.

Northeastperson

I managed to upload my YouTube video but only the link. How do you get the image of the video appearing in a post? Clicking on the YouTube button on the edit post option didn't do it.

Northeastperson

richardfm wrote: ↑27 Nov 2021, 11:30am What's happening at the chain ring when it does that?

Ok I might have worked that out. The lever for the rear derailleur must have been between clicks or something. I clicked it again and the derailleur stopped stretching out.

I feel the site should have another section for total beginner bike maintenance numpties. I feel I'm stinking out this part of the forum.

Northeastperson

Hi. The last time I went out on the bike it was functioning ok but just turning the pedals (on my new bike stand

) without changing gear it's doing this.

I'm guessing I'm the culprit. All I've done is degrease the chain and relube it trying to do exactly what GCN show in one of their videos. I haven't adjusted anything.

Northeastperson

peetee wrote: ↑26 Nov 2021, 10:08pm The crankset has alloy crank arms, plastic outer guard and steel rings. The inner ring can be seen to have tabs bent round to act as chain catchers. This is identical to the composition of Shimano Tourney and Sunrace cranks and what I would expect on a bike of that price.
I still believe the damage to be indicative of hesitant gear changes which could be down user-related or a problem with the front mech position - a photo from the other side would help as would a clear view of the small chainring without the chain on it (from the side you have already shown. I would expect to see a relatively unscathed surface in comparison to the other two.

The rear derailleur is in the middle (4th) cog if that helps. I've not been often below 5th on the rear derailleur with the big chainring operating though as I know about cross chaining.

Northeastperson

kylecycler wrote: ↑26 Nov 2021, 9:11pm This is the OP's bike. It's a triple with a 7 speed freewheel:

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/gb/escape-3

It's nearly brand new. There's no way anything will have worn in three weeks and 30 or 40 miles, just the paint off the chainring teeth, which is inevitable. Chain is a KMC Z7. Stop worrying - these kind of entry level hybrids are basic but usually robust.

Are you sure the chainrings are aluminium? The specs say the crankset is 'forged alloy' but the chainrings on an entry level bike are more likely to be steel with aluminium (i.e. 'forged alloy') cranks. Steel chainrings are heavier but tend to last longer, and vice versa with aluminium rings.

I just knew it was described as an aluminium bike.

To be honest I was wondering if the bike repair guy who had the bike for three days checking the safety of the bike had switched the chainring. I realise that sounds bad.

Northeastperson

LollyKat wrote: ↑26 Nov 2021, 9:05pm Was the chain lubricated before you first used it? It seems very dry in the photos (as viewed on my phone).

I oiled it only yesterday in the way shown in the GCN videos on YouTube. I rubbed off the excess on the sides of the chain with a rag. They say to do that.

Cycling UK Forum

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Re: Chainring wear and tear on my brand new bike?