Cycling UK Forum

Pair black Dutch throwover panniers, each 400 x 330 x 150 mm. Strap-on, reflective patches on end panels, clip closures. Slits in top to alllow passage of straps or bungees (as designed). Sadly unused as problems with heel strike and overlappping rear light due to length - I guess designed for Dutch...

P.S. Should have said that what matters about the motor, if putting force through your foot is the problem, is the Torque it delivers, i.e. the turning force it develops - the more, the better. Since power = torque x speed of rotation, you'd just be losing top speed (but then, the motor has by law t...

I rode one for about five years till I wrecked it by forgetting to fasten the reaction arm for the back-pedal brake after a tyre change (doh). I was very happy with it - only once mis-behaved - on a Saturday afternoon in rural Northumberland - but soon sorted itself out. Changing the cable at the cl...

I'm looking for a 42/32/22 chainset with 170 mm alloy cranks and square taper fitting in decent nick if anyone has one to sell.
Thanks

Important to distinguish power from force : I guess your foot hurts if you put too much force/weight on it: power is the rate of doing work, which is different, and only partly relevant to your problem. You could minimize the force you put through your painful foot by (a) using a cadence-sensor bike...

Update: I took the chainring off, and it seems that it also engaged with more splines co-axial with the BB axle, which presumably connects it to the torque sensor inside. The play presumably comes from there, so I doubt if it matters - the chainring itself doesn't show signs of wear where it engages...

For years I've run a Lumotec IQ Fly at the front and a B&M Toplight D at teh back off AXA roller dynamos with little trouble, except slipping in wet (or particularly foggy) conditions. I suspect that, because the current being drawn will be much less with LEDs than incandescents, the drag of the...

Sadly, this wasn't a £799 job from a supermarket, but a £1700 job from a UK-based specialist - but I think more attention was paid to the electricals than the mechanical parts.

Thanks again all. Not sure if the place it was bought still exists, they didn't know much about the mechanical side anyway, and we no longer live anywhere near. The assembly does look a lot like the torque sensor BB on Aliexpress, though I haven't located a wire coming from it, and presumably there ...

Thanks - I feared as much.
Asinus

Thanks, but I don't think it's the same - both crank arms are attached by Allen bolts and the chainwheel is definitely separate from the RH crank.
Asinus

"It's a bottom bracket, but not as I know it". My wife's pedelec has a bottom bracket of a type I've never seen before, and there's play in the bearings, and there's play between the chainwheel and the axle. See pictures to make description clearer. It looks as if it has external cups, but...

I'd go to The Electric Transport Company (who have branches in York, Cambridge and elsewhere) to get your existing one re-celled. They replaced the cells in my battery 7 years ago and it's still holding charge well and stably. Not cheap - cost about £400 for a 24V system - but I think it's a quality...

Has anyone converted a Mission Tribrid? I ask because the unassisted version looks good - only 25 kg, 700C wheels, disc brakes, 21 gears (though a bit high), differential even - but Mission advise against. Alternative might be ready made up e.g. Jorvik Odin which has a differential and seemingly goo...

Changing to a 16T sprocket will take the direct drive ratio to 2.6, above the manufacturer's recommendation, but it doesn't matter really if it's too high: it's too low a ratio that makes it more likely that the teeth on the sun pinions in the gear hub will strip. I guess the question of the bottom ...