Cycling UK Forum

PaulS wrote: ↑11 Jun 2020, 12:12pm Thanks Nick. And my shifters have a "B". There's the difference.

Having just bought some 11 speed Athena "B" shifters and rereading this I took to measuring cable pull (not attached to anything) and get a pull of 2.6 per click (ignoring 11 to 10) which lines up with the Shimergo tables. I am now confused enough to just buy the correct mechs!

Does anyone know whether the same holds for 11s GRX and 11s campagnolo shifters as hopds for 10s. I think that it will but I'm getting confused!

Thanks for the response. I feel inclined to try. BTW I have a camera on my commuting bike but I was on my Brompton today (my normal round town bike).

I have just now had a similar experience but with a car pulling over, threats of being beaten up and swear words. I turned on my tail and ran away.

There is no cycle path by the road but it was between the 1st and second roundabout of a close pair, the right hand lane is for straight on for the 1st and then it narrows into the second. I was in the centre of the lane for the second when a car tried to squeeze on my left at speed. I waved my left hand and shouted no loudly. I was then overtaken by the car with abuse and threats of violence from both driver and passenger who then tried to block my way to attack me. As I said I turned tail and ran away to a shop that would have provided witnesses if they had tried to catch me. Unfortunately these incidents are becoming increasingly common and I wondered if there was a way to get things logged so that the extent of the problem could be recorded? My wife suggested the police but since I have no description, registration number etc this seems like a waste of time. Any ideas?

I have Super Galaxy that I inherited from a friend who had an urgent N+1 problem. It's probably a 2004 or 2005 model (like the one CJ reviewed in Cycle) bizarrely bought from Oxfam (I was the one who spied it in the window).

Me mate gave it a real hammering including the following interesting mechanicals:
1. Broke a chain on a one way system in Newcastle firing the chain onto the road behind
2. Stripped the bottle bracket thread so the BB is epoxied in (on its second BB)

He also rode London Edinburgh London on it.

I now run it as a gravel bike which is quite fun. It is the highest number of Reynolds tubing that I have but the heaviest bike

I've fitted these to my son's bikes. Easy to grease and seem ok quality. Grip on top isn't brilliant

The series configuration would probably not work for LED lights whose input will be a switched mode power supply. Series would work for halogen bulbs and the SON lights used to have a second headlight version and the switch shorted out the light for low speed operation

I'm running a bike with a 7 speed cassette and 9 speed chain without any obvious issue.

Mackiemill wrote:Turned my 2006 Dawes Ultra Galaxy into a gravel bike this year ...

Got no photo but I've got a Super Galaxy set up very similar. Works well off road. I've got 42 Marathon Mondials. Great fun

If my Spa tourer wasn't my commuting workhorse I'd have done the same to it (I.e. took of the rack and guards and fitted bigger tyres = nothing much = pretty much a gravel bike)

When my chain wears out I may go 10 speed with GRX. Then I would have a bike with 10 speed, 9 speed, 8 speed and 7 speed (if I cheat a bit my 2 bromptons give me 6 speed and 5 speed)!

I have made my audax bike Shimergo and was thinking of going 10 speed. I was wondering if the GRX would do triple since its capacity is close to Sora triple?

Bmblbzzz wrote:What bad experiences have you had with tubeless?

People boring on about how wonderful it is

I had a puncture the other week (a rare experience) and I was trying to listen for where the hole was and along came two mountain bikers who spent 5 minutes telling me why I should be using tubeless. What I really needed was some peace to fix my problem not why I needed to change my good wheels and tyres!

Height and straightness are they key parameters. Get those wrong and nothing will work.

Since you have a brake on adaptor you have many degrees of freedom. I'd put the clamp to be roughly in line with where it was and then tighten. Then use the braze on bracket to set the height to be quite close and parallel to the big ring. Then set the lower limit for big cog at rear. Only then attach the cable.

I know I will regret Saying this but I've never broken drive side spokes. My experiences with poorly adjusted rear mechs involved the mech I the spokes and the fun that that entailed (I then jumped on the bike in rage, I was younger and less level headed) and had to carry the bike home for a mile!

Brucey wrote:the replacement shimano models are BB-UN100 and BB-UN300.

They are built like SunRace and Chin Huar units, amongst others not noted for their longevity.

cheers

Why can't they leave well alone! Given the normal longevity of UN55 et al bottom brackets I've always had a suspicion that the external BB was to up sales of bearings