Cycling UK Forum

They are safe but finding panniers that fit can be a challenge. I think that ortliebs will fit but can't remember.

As someone who gets through chains quickly (the order of 1000ish miles - don't ask me why, maybe my high cadence and sloppy maintenance!) but I just change the chain when it needs it and don't worry about anything else. When I've got steel rings (given up of Aluminium) the drive train lasts so many ...

I gave up, it was like sitting on a rock and I really persisted (when they did get comfy I found that the front metal bit had broken). I now use Madison Flux and Passport Navigator saddles, much happier!

Mick F wrote:

drossall wrote:Original Shimergo page here.

CJ never mentioned costs.

My post above has used costs as an illustration in using Ergo and Campag stuff with a Shimano cassette and with a Jtek shift mate.

Do you not also need a Shimano derailleur too?

Deore rear mech will work (so long as it's not more than 9) as will Sora.

Seconding the other comment there is benefit in keeping it simple with 8-speed just replace what's worn out (rear mechs do wear out and I've had the front mech break (the tab retaining the spring snapped off)

Why do you want to change? It will cost a fortune for IMHO minor benefits.

I'm disappointed since my daughter may loose her job!

Caught up with W1A recently. The Brompton is popular with several of the characters, who are frequently depicted arriving simultaneously at Broadcasting House, with humorous consequences. One of my favourites is the running gag where the staff pecking order is reflected by their use of the various ...

Glad I found out with the cheap ones! However I mis ordered band on so wasted more money.... Still the L is OK!

I bought these because they are cheap. I thought that they'd be low risk (it's a 7 speed shifter so surely not complex?) but I'm not happy with them. The front shifter is OK (it's a power ratchet type) but the rear is stiff and it either over shifts or runs rough (trying to fall down to the next hig...

All that to say I haven’t regretted going from STIs to down-tube shifters for a moment. It’s a pure pleasure to ride and work on this bike. I was reminded of that all the more when working on a Shimano FD-5801 with STI (indexed front) shifting last week. What a heap of nonsense. There were more lev...

I have recently reverted to down tube shifters for my commuting tourer and I really like them. They are simple and seem to stop me needlessly changing gear. I'm probably going to downgrade another of my bikes (mix of downtube and bar end - I've got off ones knocking about!) but I expect my best bike...

.......Yes you need a gap, the top cap needs to be pressing on the stem or spacer and not bottom out on the steerer. I leave a 10mm spacer above the stem, just for a bit of future adjustability. Yep,spot on :wink: I forgot to answer that bit :oops: I'm a fan of not cutting down fork steerers at all...

Why not leave it uncut? I don't cut any of mine as I figure that as I get older I will need to raise the bars.

A mate wanted me to cut down his fork and I was reminded why I don't do this!

Brucey wrote:is it possible they make your frame break....?.....



(sorry, couldn't resist it..... )

cheers

What am I missing here? Maybe that's why my old rusty black frame snapped!