Search found 142 matches

by lowrider
18 Aug 2023, 3:46pm
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: Hill Starts - E-assist not helping
Replies: 68
Views: 9189

Re: Hill Starts - E-assist not helping

From the link:
Once we receive your order for a Wisper full throttle bike we arrange to have your bike tested by the DVSA and Type Approved as an L1e in the category 250W LPM (250Watt Low Powered) Moped.
Not the whole story,
L1e electric bikes are a sub-group of Low Powered Moped that meets the criteria laid down in the Electrically Assisted Pedal Cycle Regulations 1983 (SI 1983 No. 1168) as amended by SI 2015 No. 24. The requirements are that the vehicle:

Be fitted with pedals by means of which it is capable of being propelled
Be fitted with no motor other than an electric motor, which has a maximum continuous rated power, which does not exceed 250 watts and cannot propel the vehicle when it is travelling at more than 15.5 mph
It meets the EAPC criteria so its considered as such otherwise what would be the point of it.
by lowrider
11 Jan 2022, 11:48am
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: Battery wiring
Replies: 11
Views: 628

Re: Battery wiring

Hi,
I would avoid soldering or modifying the connections of either the battery or motor it will likely void any warranty. The easiest way would be to source an adapter. The connectors look like xt60 and 4mm bullet? check ebay after you have identified them, you might have to look under RC as well as e- bikes. Double check connector sizes and the polarity. I made one up but on hindsight it would have been better to just buy one.
by lowrider
16 Sep 2021, 9:37am
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: crank vs hub power
Replies: 27
Views: 3722

Re: crank vs hub power

Hub drives are generally cheaper and more reliable and longer lasting than mid drive (though not always).
I have no experience of hub power. I assume that because of the weight distribution hub as some advantages but I also suspect some disadvantages such as increased chain wear.
The opposite is true with a hub drive a mid drive is heavier on the drive chain as that type puts the extra power through the chain while a hub is directly onto the wheel rather than the chain. Mid drive will give a better weight distribution though if that is important to you.

Torque sensing tends to be on mid motors (though not always) Cadence tends to be on Hub drives (though not always).

Received wisdom is that torque sensing has a better feel, closer to a non assisted bike. Cadence is better for weaker cyclists or those with joint issues as with this type you dont need to put in as much effort as you do with torque types (at the expense of range).
by lowrider
26 Mar 2021, 9:49am
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: e-touring and battery safety
Replies: 8
Views: 1481

Re: e-touring and battery safety

Hi,

Get a higher ampage charger just for touring. What size will depend on the particular cells used in your pack and what it can cope with but 3A will be approximately 6 hrs 4A 4.5 hrs. Rarely will you need the full charge and six hours is much easier to manage.

The constraints of the battery might mean your days are shorter than your used to un assisted. Based on a few assumptions and10 miles an hour moving average, even with a 17.5ah battery (36v) I would of thought that your range would be about 50 to 60 miles. Starting at say 9am that would be a moving time of 5 to 6hrs. Thats 3 to 4hrs stopping time assuming a 6pm finish.

The timed plug seems like a reasonable Idea to stop it charging overnight if thats a worry.

I suggest you do use the bike fairly regularly to maintain the battery.
by lowrider
16 Mar 2021, 12:43pm
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: Ebike to fit in hatchback
Replies: 28
Views: 3725

Re: Ebike to fit in hatchback

mylesm
Now I find that I cannot fit a Towbar to this model my bad for not checking

Hybrids unfortunately are not as practical as a petrol or diesel car, not that well known is they cant tow (or not well) the sales publicity dont mention things like that. However I have a friend who`s got a tow bar fitted to a Toyota hybrid and does tow a light trailer ( very) although not recommended by the manufacturer.

The point is the restriction he has is on towing due to the shortcoming's of the system, not on the tow bar itself, you will be using it only as a bracket to mount a rack. I assume that there will be tow bars available for petrol or diesel models of the same vehicle, just get one of them fitted. Providing the weight with the bikes and the rack does exceed the maximum loading of the car or the tow bar of course and worth checking any insurance issue just in case. Also check the rear or the car where the bar would be fitted is the same as a normal car.

E bikes tend to be pretty heavy and akward to manhandle even folders are not light. Putting two bikes into a car even conventional ones usually is not straight forward. An e bike is worse, given the weight it would be easy to damage them or the car getting them in and out of the back. It would need to be a large hatch or a van so you could keep them upright.
by lowrider
12 Feb 2021, 10:26am
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: Towing with an ebike.
Replies: 14
Views: 1438

Re: Towing with an ebike.

saudidave
The average bike shop mechanic has no technical knowledge about the inner workings of a Bosch Active Line motor because they aren’t serviceable and bike mechanics by and large don’t understand how they work.

This is just dismissive, you assert that that cycle mechanics have no knowledge. I suspect even the average one will know more than the majority of contributors to this forum. The mechanic although not authorised to repair will be more than aware of the failures coming back to the shop and likely others in different locations.

If youve ever purchased a vehicle with an inerrant issue you know that the mechanic is often the first hint that there is a problem with the model. Ive done that twice, when you get that funny look and they say something like "you should have bought the diesel" or the "1.4 is better" One of those vehicles was from a highly regarded manufacturer many of the owners of vehicles from the same were unwilling to accept that there was even a problem.
saudidave
As for carrying a 5 year old and a 12 month old baby, has anyone mentioned the overall weight of the rider and sprogs? A 5 year old weighs about 3 stones and a rug rat about one and a half. Add to that a 13 stone adult and the gross cargo is 19 stones/266lbs/120kg. A Raleigh Motus weighs 55lbs so all up, bike and all, the load is 321lbs or 146 Kgs.

Without context that means nothing, weight is not an indication of load without a description of the speed and terrain.
saudidave
Since the Bosch technical data recommends a max of 250kgs for the active line plus and they use that motor on cargo bikes then it’s a no brainer!
The motus was a good bike but just not for the purpose I wanted it for. You also have to consider the capacity of the bike and be less trusting of the manufacturers literature especially if you are made aware of issues that are cropping up.

The Motus is a budget bike with a budget motor that its place in the market. Bosch themselves have motors specifically cargo bikes, the cargo line. If they do that why would you trust a manufacturer that specs an inferior motor for that purpose. It will be either built to a price and or not suitable for heavy loads. I think when buying a mechanical device such as a bike or a vehicle there is no such thing as a "no brainer"
by lowrider
11 Feb 2021, 6:52pm
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: Towing with an ebike.
Replies: 14
Views: 1438

Re: Towing with an ebike.

al_yrpal

I was told something similar by a British E bike manufacturer and on that basis I wouldnt touch their products with a bargepole.


I was told something similar when I nearly bought a Raleigh Motus, not by the salesman but by one of the Mechanics outside the shop. I was wanting the bike to go touring, the story was that the smaller active line motor was not up to that and prone to burning out if it was loaded too much like for instance with a heavy load and hills. His advice was to go for a bike with a more robust motor.

Not all e bikes are created equal even from the same manufacturer

It also confirmed my impression that the salesman was clueless, far from driving me away I would prefer that salesman are realistic about the performance of their products. You here stories on forums of people on their 5th warranty motor, obviously they have been sold something thats not fit for the purpose they bought it for. Much better to have someone that is upfront about the reality of the product than telling you what you want to hear or saying nothing at all to get the sale.
by lowrider
30 Sep 2020, 3:21pm
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: Touring eBike
Replies: 13
Views: 1934

Re: Touring eBike

I have been looking at this for a while as it is similar to my requirements, in short the answer is no, you will either have to accept what is on offer, modify a standard bike or convert one of your old bikes.

I also think that the drop barred bikes discussed are really not suitable for your needs. The main reason is your fitness appears to be poor even on the flat. Those bikes are really only designed for those that are fairly fit and only need a little help on the hills, they usually have small batteries which limit their range if you have to use the assist too much. Most riders seem to not use the assist most of the time only using it on occasion when necessary.

I think by your post you will require a bike of the more conventional that will give more assistance which means the normal hybrid type unfortunately.

The only solution if you want a drop touring bike style is really to convert one of your older bikes with a battery capacity suitable for your needs or more likely as close as you can get.

One compromise that might work is a Woosh Faro. Its really a flat barred road bike though but does have a rack, nothing like the quality your used to as its under £1.2K but it has cadence sensing not torque sensing as you would expect on a 2k plus bike. I think it can also can be retrofitted with a throttle, these two features would make it more suitable to someone with very limited fitness as you can get the motor to work without the need to put pressure on the peddles (with less range).

Your desire for a 100mile range is most likely not achievable without a reasonable level of fitness. With poor fitness levels it would mean carrying a very large battery capacity. Maybe with a spare battery it might be achievable.

If it were me I would refurbish and convert the Sardar as I guess its the most versatile.
by lowrider
30 Jul 2020, 1:51pm
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: Bike rack for car.
Replies: 8
Views: 819

Re: Bike rack for car.

JollyRoger

However, on the internet I have noticed that some sites suggest that boot mounted racks are not suitable for an e bike. It suggests that a bike for a boot rack shouldn’t be over 15kg. I was just wondering if anyone could help me with this as I don’t want to use it if it will damage my car or even worse cause an accident!! Much appreciated.


Saw this e bike compatible rack from Halfords, most wont take the weight of a single bike over 15kg this one takes 25kg. There are still a lot of bloated e bikes that would still be to heavy though.

https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-r ... 36262.html
by lowrider
5 Jul 2020, 10:10am
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: Battery Charger Needed for Carrera Subway
Replies: 6
Views: 971

Re: Battery Charger Needed for Carrera Subway

Hi,

ENERpower do a charger the Modiary Charger 42V 2A with multiple connector options.

https://enerprof.de/en/chargers/ebike-b ... 0101&c=108

An XLR 3 connector is one of the options, you just need to be sure you have the connector Identified correctly.

I cant see an option for the mains plug though, so you might need to change the mains plug or buy an adapter. The delivery could also be a bit slower than normal, worth contacting them on these points.

Hope this is useful.
by lowrider
21 Jun 2020, 5:04pm
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: New crowd-funded entry into the conversion market
Replies: 13
Views: 1046

Re: New crowd-funded entry into the conversion market

In principle this looks good but I would want a lot more detail before committing, I am suspicious that they dont quote the battery capacity, even the big ones look quite small the range quoted looks optimistic to me (as always). I think they have missed a trick if they had mounted the battery in a similar manner to Swytch, then it really would have made it a very easy install.

The big issue is that their not promising delivery until the end of the year, far too long, even if their on time.
by lowrider
4 Jan 2020, 9:58pm
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: Couple of newbie questions.
Replies: 11
Views: 1108

Re: Couple of newbie questions.

Hi,

2) I live with chronic foot pain that seems to have no cause (every doc and surgery poss for 10 years but nothing). I'd like to be able to get off road a little bit as well as town cycling and I'm concerned that 250/15.5 might struggle in the south downs without extra foot pressure. In all honesty folks, would getting a more powerful one REALLY be that bad? Do the authorities actually enforce this power restriction? I don't know how strict this forum is yet with such a question, but I'd appreciate some feedback (DM or w/e) from people that are derestricted if that's allowed. I'm unable to exercise other than swim and it's pretty depressing. Just want to know the ebike is capable of getting about without much help. Np pedalling btw just heavy pressure. Cheers folks


This sounds like you can put some pressure but not too much is this correct. I would be very careful on the type of drive you choose. But first you need to try different types of drive to begin with as a starting point.

Some drives require you to input pressure to the peddle to get any power from the motor. Known as a torque drive these will input at max 60% to 75% of the effort you provide the rest. If your foot is too bad then this type of drive they may not be suitable. Don't think it matters too much what power the motor has either is as if you have a 500w motor to get that out you will need to input at least 125w. You need to see what your foot can cope with.

Torque motors tend to be fitted to the more expensive types of e bike but not always, I have seen one as low £1200 (Sale price) with a Bosch motor. Note all Bosch drives are torque drives.

What might be more suitable in your circumstances is a cadence drive. These work on the basis that the motor provides power when the peddles turn. That does not necessarily mean that the peddles are turning fast enough to provide any power to the wheel only that they are moving, the motor can therefore on occasion provide 100% of the power. This feature maybe just what you need. With this type of drive you can get 100% full power (depending on the settings) without any pressure on the peddles so a bigger motor will definitely be of benifit.

All lower price range bikes work on this principle but again not always, I have seen bikes over £2,000 with cadence drive (not Sale price).

Unfortunately I cant help too much with models but Raleigh Modus was Bosch torque (any Bosch powered bike) some ridgebacks are cadence. Mid motors can be either Torque or Cadence, wheel hub motors are nearly all cadence but not all. Be very careful read the specs carefully and don't always believe the salesman, I found one that didnt know the difference.

You still need to get the thing going though if you can tolerate pressure on the peddle to get going fine but there may be options.

A Pedelec needs you to peddle and you will need to peddle hard off road sometimes. You actually need a throttle controlled bike of some sort for which you need number plates, insurance, registration and a helmet. These types of bikes are illegal off road on bridleways. Look at mopeds.


Not strictly 100% correct for the reasons I have stated above when moving but also I believe there is an exemption for throttles up to 6kph as an aid to getting moving, although I dont know of any bike that has this feature. Most seem to have a feature to help pushing the bike.

Also Wisper bikes will sell you a legal e-bike that has a throttle and type approval I suggest you speak to them if that is of interest.

A bit more out there was I read on the Pedelecs Forum on a post from Woosh bikes claims that the throttle rule does not apply to aftermarket fitting only for bike manufacturers. Basically they cant sell you a bike with one but you can retro fit one yourself after market. a bit like the rule on fitting bicycles with bells at the point of sale. I suggest you approach them if this is of interest to you and get some detail and evidence that their assertion is correct before committing. I couldn't be bothered doing so as I wasn't sold on having one, also I dont think many bikes these days have the facility for one (Chinese based e bike systems probably will allow this but check).

Hope this helps and good luck in your search.
by lowrider
2 Jan 2020, 10:59pm
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: Recs for semi hilly commute
Replies: 8
Views: 692

Re: Recs for semi hilly commute

RickH
I don't think an upgradeable kit would comply with the law. That may or may not bother you but in the, albeit relatively unlikely, event of there being an incident you risk the possibility of being charged with driving offences rather than cycling ones.

Just about every e bike and conversion kit is upgradable in some way with the exception of the latest Bosch powered bikes. If that was the law practically no e bike never mind conversion would be legal.

I think you may be confusing upgradable with an off road switch, those are specifically banned. The fact you can modify a bike to get a higher maximum speed isn't the same as an off road switch which you can change between settings when your riding. Just don't modify the bike before the law was changed.
by lowrider
2 Jan 2020, 2:00pm
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: Best e-bike for smallish woman exploring hilly countryside (roads and mild off-road)?
Replies: 31
Views: 2085

Re: Best e-bike for smallish woman exploring hilly countryside (roads and mild off-road)?

Hi,

I am going through a similar process I don't think I will end up with the same choice but its the thought process that counts. I would ignore some of the partisan discussion and concentrate on what you want. The impression I get is that you've not quite made up your mind on what you want to do with this bike. I suspect when you get it you will use it for things you never anticipated.

The first comment I would make is don't paint yourself into a corner, my greatest fear. If you spend 2k on a bike its got to do what you want not what someone tells you want (especially dealers). If you don't know that for sure don't buy until you do. It has been said that you should try bikes out that's sound advice test as many as you can.

Being small you might find difficulty in getting a bike that fits. Small bikes can be hard to come by e bikes are no exception some makes may be too big for you. You actually need to go to the shop to try the fit in my opinion,the brochure is only a guide in this respect. This is even more important if the bike has a cross bar.

There are various types of drive to add to the confusion which I wont go into but there are various pros and cons of different manufacturers and drive systems in terms of cost, reliability and life span. I would check the forums for this, It's a major topic of discussion and its not obvious on face value what the answer is. Sometimes the most expensive is not the most economical long lived or reliable.

As for how the different types feel only riding bikes will help you there. Generally the received wisdom is mid drive better to ride but less reliable, hub drive more reliable(much) but not so good on hills. This is an over simplification and there are exceptions to the rules.

It is also important to try bikes to asses the resistance with power off, most hub drives have negligible (geared type only) some mid types do some don't. You need to try I have found some that do and some that don't in one case the same manufacturer, same type and in the same shop one that had none and one that had a noticeable resistance.

It may be that the best type of bike is an all rounder as you suggest covering as many bases as possible. Look for a hybrid type that can take racks, mudguard, accessories and different tyre types for different uses. I say can take not must fit that's up to you the only thing that is important is that there is an option to do so if you think that is the way to go at a later stage.

I saw a Boardman bike being mentioned as an option. That one I fancied but its really quite limited,this is an example of how you can go down a blind alley. I like the bike(a lot) but it would not be suitable for what I want(done this a few times). The battery in particular was VERY small most bikes worth considering will have 400wh or 500wh. Weight is the focus or possibly keeping the price down as the battery is normally an expensive component. Goto the Bosch on line range calculator and you will see where the compromise is. Its light weight but weight on an e bike this only makes a marginal difference, the main advantage is lifting the bike onto trains and up stairs (often very important). Light weight will not compensate for a small battery youll have to do that by pedalling harder.

The next thing I would say that on the forums most contributors are enthusiasts. Many are heavily into modifying, repairing and building e bikes
Although having said that, it occurs to me that there is a localish shop which might be able to help me with the sourcing, hmm...

Your on the right track, if you are not into that sort of thing as you have said find a local supplier and more importantly someone who can work on the electrics, preferably the dealer as well.

I would avoid any thoughts about conversion unless you are confident you can maintain the electrical parts of the bike or can find a willing installer and repair shop locally. I haven't tried but there are reports on the forums this is difficult for e bikes, something you need to check out before you commit. I would also avoid any make of bike that cant be serviced locally as well.

You are left with bikes or conversions that can be sourced or done in locations that can be reached without too much issue. Start from there. Look for something that's versatile, that you like, will do what you want, can get serviced and repaired easily.

You need to go shopping good luck and hope you find something soon and never take on face value statements like, "these never go wrong", check the internet, in my case I found out oh yes they did very much so. That was on a 2k bike with a leading mid motor manufacturer.
by lowrider
22 Dec 2019, 9:57am
Forum: Electrically assisted pedal cycles
Topic: More powerful bike vs Twist & Go
Replies: 12
Views: 1114

Re: More powerful bike vs Twist & Go

Without getting technical sounds like your trying to justify spending a lot on a shiny new bike. The old one does the job well enough though?

The Bosch system is great to ride in my opinion far better than a cadence and hub the new bike is a lot more appealing. The Bosch is a torque sensor system so you will have to work harder as you always have to put effort in. There is an issue however, the received wisdom is that unless you have a very hilly commute hub drives are far more reliable than mid drives(even Bosch). Without knowing the details of the old bike it may be easier to repair or if parts unavailable it would possible to find substitutions. The Bosch is more expensive to repair as you are tied to their dealer network and parts not generally available to the general public (could improve or might be available on the internet)

So there you have the dilemma you want the new bike because its a lot more desirable and better performance and more fun but the old probably more suited to your every day needs.

I think the answer is if you have the space keep the old bike for the commute and treat yourself to the new bike for high days and holidays. The new and expensive to run bike will last a lot longer, the old and more practical commuter will take the hit with commuting grind. Unless of course its got something fundamental that stops this, you can keep it going with cheaper parts until it becomes non viable with age or obsolescence. Also if one breaks you have a spare until repairs are done