We purchased this e-bike brand new from the Electric Bike shop in Solihull in February 2024. The primary reason was so that my wife could join me and do some YHA light touring together.
Fast forward a year, the bike has now covered a fraction over 900 miles, and hasn't been used since last September
With its fourth-generation Bosch CX drive unit, high-capacity 750Wh battery and new Kiox display, it's got the power to take you further than ever.
Shimano's reliable XT 1x12 gears put a huge range of hill-devouring ratios at your fingertips, and powerful four-piston XT hydraulic disc brakes help keep you safely in control in any weather.
The RockShox Recon Silver air fork, suspension seat post and adjustable stem are all there to ensure your comfort. Plus, the elegant and very tough Integrated Carrier 3.0 make this a versatile and real workhorse of a bike.
Built in LED rear light and an adjustable LED front light means you can never get caught out in the dark or bad weather.
Full length mudguards front and rear with an additional wide RAW mud flap fitted to the front mudguard.
Full Technical Specification
E-Bike System - Drive Unit Bosch Drive Unit Performance CX Generation 4 (85Nm) Cruise (250Watt),
Smart System - Display Bosch Kiox 300 + LED remote
Battery - Bosch PowerTube 750Wh
Charger - Bosch 4A
Frame - Frame Aluminium Superlite, gravity casting technology, efficient comfort geometry, boost148, fully integrated battery, integrated carrier 3.0, advanced internal cable routing, 1.5 headtube (EE: Tapered Headtube)
Frame Size - Small, which according to the Cube website is for riders between 5' 3" and 5' 7". That said my wife is 5' 8" and the next next size frame felt to big for her and on the advice of the shop we opted for the Small. I have also ridden it a few times and I'm 5' 9" and it felt perfectly fine to ride.
Wheel Size - 29 inch.
Suspension Fork - RockShox Recon silver RL air, tapered, 15x110mm, 100mm, lockout.
Drivechain and Brakes - brake system Shimano XT BR-M8120/M8100, hydraulic. disc brake (180/180).
Rear Derailleur - Shimano XT RD-M8100-SGS, ShadowPlus, 12-Speed.
Shifters - Shimano Deore SL-M6100-IR, direct attach.
Crankset - Acid E-Crank, 40T, 175mm (EE: 170mm).
Cassette - Shimano Deore CS-M6100, 10-51T.
Chain - Shimano CN-M6100.
Wheels - Rims Cube EX23, 36H, disc, tubeless ready.
Front Hub - Cube engineered by Newmen, 15mm, boost, centerlock.
Rear Hub - Cube engineered by Newmen, 12mm, boost, centerlock.
Tyres - Schwalbe Marathon E-Plus, Smart-DualGuard, 55-622.
The only three mods I have done, I fitted a wide RAW mudflap to the front mudguard, a small CatEye mirror to the handlebars and clear helicopter tape to the rear triangle where the panniers fit.
Although the bike is stored outside in my workshop, the battery is always removed and kept in the warmth of the house.
We paid £3800 in February 2024 for the bike, selling it for £2500 which I think is a fair price?
Search found 408 matches: front mudflap
Searched query: front mudflap
- 11 Mar 2025, 7:51am
- Forum: For Sale - Complete bikes ONLY - state FRAME SIZE in title
- Topic: Cube Kathmandu SLX750 E-bike - Small
- Replies: 1
- Views: 102
- 15 Feb 2025, 3:25pm
- Forum: Does anyone know … ?
- Topic: ...why some posters seem so against using the full set of gears?
- Replies: 110
- Views: 4173
Re: ...why some posters seem so against using the full set of gears?
Er..no... what I can't see from the tests are any references to shifting gears...(but I'll admit to reading the document whilst also sorting out the washing, and thinking about model paper tanks)... perhaps they didn't, but perhaps they did..simonhill wrote: ↑15 Feb 2025, 2:07pmThat's very interesting, surprising frightening and unbelievable.rareposter wrote: ↑15 Feb 2025, 1:47pm
https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/chaintesting/
Lab condition testing - obviously real world may vary!
But the difference is pretty stark in places. Average of all 12sp chains to reach 0.5% wear is 3000km. Shimano 8 and 9sp chains wear to 0.5% in 1000 and 1500km respectively.
I haven't time to delve (on tour) but should I be replacing my 3 x 9 with a 1 x 12. Will it be virtually bullet proof on my expedition tourer?
..if they didn't shift gears during the test, then I'm not sure how the results from that test will be reflected in the real world.
..if they did shift gears.. then there is always the danger that the 3x9 chain was run at extreme angles which might have reduced its life span...
.....ages and ages ago, I wrote that one of the best cycling accessories you can ever by is a note book. Here you can record those places you've been, and changes in cycling positions, aches & pains, and how often you wear out bike parts. Your own real world experiences should give you some indication as to how to view that test... Everything is relative, a 1x12 will die quicker on a bike without front mudguard and mudflap, than a 3x9 on a bike fitted with a decent front mudguard and flap.
- 17 Jan 2025, 8:21pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Lubrication
- Replies: 58
- Views: 9107
Re: Lubrication
I'm currently using Peaty's All Weather premium lube and the chain doesn't appear to be a dirt magnet. However, it's fairly well protected by a front mudguard with a long mudflap (made from 2mm thick rubber sheet). The attached photo shows the chain plus the inside of the mudflap.
- 13 Jan 2025, 1:25pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Newbie question about punctures
- Replies: 31
- Views: 7029
Re: Newbie question about punctures
bikes, motorbikes, cars, lorries. They all use pneumatic tyres and there's very probably more money in those than there is in the vehicles to which they are attached. There are many stratagems for dealing with the threat of punctures and there is no universal agreement as to which is the most effective. The only thing most folk are agreed upon is that commuting present its own set of problems, not the least of which is that if trouble does arise the fix had better be quick. Below is my quick summary of things, which won't be agreed with by everyone.
Tubeless; this is the new kid on the block. Some folk love it, and make fanciful claims about how many punctures they have 'avoided', based on how many things they pull out of their tyres. Most cyclists who are long in the tooth are distinctly underwhelmed, citing various as yer unsolved problems, including that the tyres are often tighter on the rim (to the point that many people cannot remove or refit tyres), the sealant can be spectacularly messy eg. if the tyre blows off the rim, they very often leak a bit faster, so need to be reinflated more often, the sealant can dry out and need to be replenished, it never works 100%, so you might end up carrying a spare tube anyway. To use a tube not only does the tyre have to come off, but the valve stem has to come out too, for which purpose some folk carry pliers, having found the valve stem firmly fixed otherwise. So. all in all, it is probably safe to say the jury is still out here. Advocates commonly argue that they spend less time by the side of a cold dark road, but folk who puncture infrequently and/or have tube swapping down to a fine art may be more sanguine about it. One thing most folk (from both sides of the fence) are agreed upon is that it is not exactly a fit and forget solution. Perhaps this is why some folk have reverted to tubes, muttering 'never again' under their breath.
Airless (ie, solid) tyres. Early versions were (probably rightly) slagged off for being hard to fit/remove, higher rolling resistance, uncomfortable, less grippy. They also had the unfortunate effect of smashing your bikes to pieces. Although current offerings are undoubtedly much improved, naysayers still slag them off for similar reasons. Personally I think you have to be somewhat puncture-averse to embark down this road, and maybe you would be better off learning how to fix punctures instead.
Airless (ie.solid) inner tubes. A close relative of the above, with similar problems.
Tyre savers. (aka 'flint catchers') These drag (very slightly) on almost treadless tyres, the idea being that smaller debris (which very commonly causes punctures) is knocked off before it gets the chance to give you a puncture. On the plus side, the most common pattern of tyre saver in the UK (for many years) could be easily (not to mention almost indefinitely) refurbished using pieces of old spoke. Also they can be made to work well with a lot of different tyres. Most aspects of ride quality, grip and handling are unaffected. On the minus side they don't work unless the tyre is very round, smooth, and lump-free, they drag, they can be noisy, they wear out, they hurl all the dislodged debris over the bike/rider. I once used tyre savers, and the last of these was the main reason I stopped. Since then, I have completely redesigned them; at the front, the tyre saver sits between the mudflap and the tyre, and at the rear the tyre saver is mounted on the chainstays. The majority of the debris is ejected to one side and/or downwards. The revised tyre saver, much like it's predecessors, can be rebuilt using pieces of old spoke, uses a damped motion. and cannot (if correctly fitted) cause a jam. However it also has additional features, such as fully adjustable contact force (much like the tracking force in a good quality gramophone) which is essentially independent of the tyre saver's inertia during an impact (which can affect it's ability to knock debris away).
Puncture-resistant tyres, These include a barrier layer of some kind, positioned between the tread and the carcass. Originally the good barriers were nearly all made from kevlar, but since then many manufacturers have had a rethink, and use an elastic layer instead. This can allow tyres with low rolling resistance, good puncture resistance, and reasonable comfort. Because of the barrier layer's position, it protects the tyre carcass as well. However good elastic layers tend to be thick, so with the tread as well, this eats into mudguard clearance and/or forces you to use a narrower tyre on some machines. Another possible snag is that sometimes the tyre manufacturer screws up a bit and manages (yes specialized, I'm thinking of you here) to make a tyre that routinely falls apart before it wears out
Tyre Liners. These are fitted between the inner tube and the tyre. There is as much variety here as there is with puncture-resistant tyres. However they all have several things in common; first, none protects the tyre carcass, so it can be torn to shreds without a puncture occurring. Also, nearly all of them can move around and give/allow punctures. In theory, it is possible to use the liners with another set of tyres. Finally, the liner always increases the tyre's rolling resistance to some extent. Of those available, I quite like the idea of the panaracer kevlar liners, 'like a bullet-proof vest for your inner tubes', provided the rolling resistance isn't increased excessively.
Sealants. This is, of course, a cornerstone of tubeless tyre technology. However you can buy tubes with a sealant in already eg. 'slime' tubes etc. and there is nothing stopping you from using the sealant of your choice inside a tube. This tends to keep the mess confined within the tube, until either the sealant stops working, or the hole is so big that it cannot be sealed. However, sealants which are meant for tubeless may not work so well with tubes; if the tube moves, there is no longer fresh air the other side of the hole, in which case the sealant may not be effective..
Emergency aerosol repairs. These usually offer both a sealant and a means of partial re-inflation. Their effectiveness can vary.
Probably the best approach is to employ a combination of things, (eg. tyre savers, puncture-resistant tyres, and a repair aerosol as backup), rather than have all your eggs in one basket. Also it is a good idea to learn how to use a spare tube;. If the tyre and wheel aren't 'difficult', it may be possible (with practice) to change a tube in two minutes or less.
Tubeless; this is the new kid on the block. Some folk love it, and make fanciful claims about how many punctures they have 'avoided', based on how many things they pull out of their tyres. Most cyclists who are long in the tooth are distinctly underwhelmed, citing various as yer unsolved problems, including that the tyres are often tighter on the rim (to the point that many people cannot remove or refit tyres), the sealant can be spectacularly messy eg. if the tyre blows off the rim, they very often leak a bit faster, so need to be reinflated more often, the sealant can dry out and need to be replenished, it never works 100%, so you might end up carrying a spare tube anyway. To use a tube not only does the tyre have to come off, but the valve stem has to come out too, for which purpose some folk carry pliers, having found the valve stem firmly fixed otherwise. So. all in all, it is probably safe to say the jury is still out here. Advocates commonly argue that they spend less time by the side of a cold dark road, but folk who puncture infrequently and/or have tube swapping down to a fine art may be more sanguine about it. One thing most folk (from both sides of the fence) are agreed upon is that it is not exactly a fit and forget solution. Perhaps this is why some folk have reverted to tubes, muttering 'never again' under their breath.
Airless (ie, solid) tyres. Early versions were (probably rightly) slagged off for being hard to fit/remove, higher rolling resistance, uncomfortable, less grippy. They also had the unfortunate effect of smashing your bikes to pieces. Although current offerings are undoubtedly much improved, naysayers still slag them off for similar reasons. Personally I think you have to be somewhat puncture-averse to embark down this road, and maybe you would be better off learning how to fix punctures instead.
Airless (ie.solid) inner tubes. A close relative of the above, with similar problems.
Tyre savers. (aka 'flint catchers') These drag (very slightly) on almost treadless tyres, the idea being that smaller debris (which very commonly causes punctures) is knocked off before it gets the chance to give you a puncture. On the plus side, the most common pattern of tyre saver in the UK (for many years) could be easily (not to mention almost indefinitely) refurbished using pieces of old spoke. Also they can be made to work well with a lot of different tyres. Most aspects of ride quality, grip and handling are unaffected. On the minus side they don't work unless the tyre is very round, smooth, and lump-free, they drag, they can be noisy, they wear out, they hurl all the dislodged debris over the bike/rider. I once used tyre savers, and the last of these was the main reason I stopped. Since then, I have completely redesigned them; at the front, the tyre saver sits between the mudflap and the tyre, and at the rear the tyre saver is mounted on the chainstays. The majority of the debris is ejected to one side and/or downwards. The revised tyre saver, much like it's predecessors, can be rebuilt using pieces of old spoke, uses a damped motion. and cannot (if correctly fitted) cause a jam. However it also has additional features, such as fully adjustable contact force (much like the tracking force in a good quality gramophone) which is essentially independent of the tyre saver's inertia during an impact (which can affect it's ability to knock debris away).
Puncture-resistant tyres, These include a barrier layer of some kind, positioned between the tread and the carcass. Originally the good barriers were nearly all made from kevlar, but since then many manufacturers have had a rethink, and use an elastic layer instead. This can allow tyres with low rolling resistance, good puncture resistance, and reasonable comfort. Because of the barrier layer's position, it protects the tyre carcass as well. However good elastic layers tend to be thick, so with the tread as well, this eats into mudguard clearance and/or forces you to use a narrower tyre on some machines. Another possible snag is that sometimes the tyre manufacturer screws up a bit and manages (yes specialized, I'm thinking of you here) to make a tyre that routinely falls apart before it wears out
Tyre Liners. These are fitted between the inner tube and the tyre. There is as much variety here as there is with puncture-resistant tyres. However they all have several things in common; first, none protects the tyre carcass, so it can be torn to shreds without a puncture occurring. Also, nearly all of them can move around and give/allow punctures. In theory, it is possible to use the liners with another set of tyres. Finally, the liner always increases the tyre's rolling resistance to some extent. Of those available, I quite like the idea of the panaracer kevlar liners, 'like a bullet-proof vest for your inner tubes', provided the rolling resistance isn't increased excessively.
Sealants. This is, of course, a cornerstone of tubeless tyre technology. However you can buy tubes with a sealant in already eg. 'slime' tubes etc. and there is nothing stopping you from using the sealant of your choice inside a tube. This tends to keep the mess confined within the tube, until either the sealant stops working, or the hole is so big that it cannot be sealed. However, sealants which are meant for tubeless may not work so well with tubes; if the tube moves, there is no longer fresh air the other side of the hole, in which case the sealant may not be effective..
Emergency aerosol repairs. These usually offer both a sealant and a means of partial re-inflation. Their effectiveness can vary.
Probably the best approach is to employ a combination of things, (eg. tyre savers, puncture-resistant tyres, and a repair aerosol as backup), rather than have all your eggs in one basket. Also it is a good idea to learn how to use a spare tube;. If the tyre and wheel aren't 'difficult', it may be possible (with practice) to change a tube in two minutes or less.
- 18 Dec 2024, 2:15am
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Mudflap Brainwave #2
- Replies: 37
- Views: 2359
Re: Mudflap Brainwave #2
I think it's a great word to use as an insult "You mudflap".
It implies a muddy mindedness along with being in a flap. It's a brilliant insult.
People have mentioned materials that get caught up in the gap between the front wheel and mudguard. Maybe if the seatbelt material was reinforced with (as someone mentioned) spokes sewn into it. Why does the flap need to have any bendability?
Yes that's a word... I looked it up before I committed to posting this.
I mean why can't it be a screwed on piece of carbon fiber sheet? That stuff is insane and it would only need to be 1mm thick.
As far as wearing out, the seatbelt material would last "forever" but why does it have to be flappy?
Maybe the seatbelt material would be better than carbon sheet, since if the carbon is whacked just once it could render it useless... that's never going to happen with Brucey's seatbelt, but I think it needs something to make it rigid, then you have the same issue with whatever is making it rigid, getting whacked and damaged.
I put a "Rapid Racer Products Proguard Max Front Mudguard" (on a MTB suspension fork) and have never had an issue, on the road that is. £26 for a piece of plastic that must have cost 26p to make.
It implies a muddy mindedness along with being in a flap. It's a brilliant insult.
People have mentioned materials that get caught up in the gap between the front wheel and mudguard. Maybe if the seatbelt material was reinforced with (as someone mentioned) spokes sewn into it. Why does the flap need to have any bendability?
Yes that's a word... I looked it up before I committed to posting this.
I mean why can't it be a screwed on piece of carbon fiber sheet? That stuff is insane and it would only need to be 1mm thick.
As far as wearing out, the seatbelt material would last "forever" but why does it have to be flappy?
Maybe the seatbelt material would be better than carbon sheet, since if the carbon is whacked just once it could render it useless... that's never going to happen with Brucey's seatbelt, but I think it needs something to make it rigid, then you have the same issue with whatever is making it rigid, getting whacked and damaged.
I put a "Rapid Racer Products Proguard Max Front Mudguard" (on a MTB suspension fork) and have never had an issue, on the road that is. £26 for a piece of plastic that must have cost 26p to make.
- 17 Dec 2024, 11:16pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Mudflap Brainwave #2
- Replies: 37
- Views: 2359
Re: Mudflap Brainwave #2
I've used - amongst other materials - damproof membrane for numerous flaps. On one of the fronts it does, from time-to-time, get tucked up between the tyre and the front wheel.
Nothing bad happens. I stop and extract it in a few seconds by hand.
I don't find this much of a problem. What am I missing?!? Apart from this very minor inconvenience it seems a very good material for the job. It is very flexible, but that mainly means it blows backwards; I'm not sure this is a big problem, and may even mean my followers stay dryer than they otherwise would?
Nothing bad happens. I stop and extract it in a few seconds by hand.
I don't find this much of a problem. What am I missing?!? Apart from this very minor inconvenience it seems a very good material for the job. It is very flexible, but that mainly means it blows backwards; I'm not sure this is a big problem, and may even mean my followers stay dryer than they otherwise would?
- 29 Nov 2024, 9:52am
- Forum: On the road
- Topic: Are you happy wearing black?
- Replies: 141
- Views: 18982
Re: Are you happy wearing black?
I bought something similar in red and white and stuck them on as many suitable places on my bikes as possible. Mine are a bit more subtle and don't change the aesthetics of the bikes too much.axel_knutt wrote: ↑28 Nov 2024, 12:01pmIf I was still cycling I might be tempted to get some of these.Carlton green wrote: ↑27 Nov 2024, 7:53pm Perhaps I’ll be putting some white tape on my rear mudflap - insulation tape is cheap and will last a while - the mudguard itself is silver with a red refector and a light. I use silver mudguards because I like them and I already have them but had never realised that going for white - or otherwise reflective - was such an easy and obvious (when you think about it) safety choice. Maybe some white tape on the seat stays would be worth the few minutes effort too. My pedals have reflectors built in. Observing the visibility of other cyclists - ideally when driving a car - helps one usefully question and amend one’s own visibility.
I'm now looking for a way to make the front of my black Brompton bag reflective without damaging the fabric. The old one had a triangular reflective are in the middle. I thought about one or two of those dangly reflectors in white that I see sometimes on kids' school rucksacks here.
- 22 Oct 2024, 8:25pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Drops bars with IGH and hub brakes, etc.
- Replies: 72
- Views: 5204
Re: Drops bars with IGH and hub brakes, etc.
Oh, pragmatism. At the time I hadn't had any experience of using drum brakes... checking on the Internet they're seemed to be two schools of thought... either they were very weak and you'd die using them due to their lack of power... or they were so strong that they would rip off your front fork and you'd die using them...Samuel D wrote: ↑21 Oct 2024, 7:20pmGood point about the chain case.cycle tramp wrote: ↑21 Oct 2024, 5:19pmMy thoughts are
i) Mudguards are a must, full one's with a decent mudflap front & rear - reduces the need for a full chain case.
Do you recall why you set up the brakes like that? How was the drum brake to live with?cycle tramp wrote: ↑21 Oct 2024, 5:19pmiii) I ran a 26" wheeled expedition frame, with a rim brake in the front and a 3 speed sturmey archer hub and 90mm rear.
So I bought a 3 speed hub with a 90mm to see how badly I would die. And I haven't. The 90mm drum brake was strong enough to use without bedding in, and got stronger with use.
The other reason was that being of a certain age, when I was taught to ride a motorcycle, the mantra was 'rear brake for slowing down and controlling speed, front and rear for stopping' - so by using a drum rear brake, I could reduce the rim wear on the front wheel... meaning I could still use off the shelf front wheels...
Anyway.. my next bike used a 90mm front and a 70mm rear drum brake and the one after that used a 70mm front and a 70mm drum brake...
What I would say is that I found 1980's cantilever brake levers make quite effective levers when paired with drum brakes....my next drum brake bike might use full on motorcycle levers with 2mm cables..
- 21 Oct 2024, 7:20pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Drops bars with IGH and hub brakes, etc.
- Replies: 72
- Views: 5204
Re: Drops bars with IGH and hub brakes, etc.
Good point about the chain case.cycle tramp wrote: ↑21 Oct 2024, 5:19pmMy thoughts are
i) Mudguards are a must, full one's with a decent mudflap front & rear - reduces the need for a full chain case.
Do you recall why you set up the brakes like that? How was the drum brake to live with?cycle tramp wrote: ↑21 Oct 2024, 5:19pmiii) I ran a 26" wheeled expedition frame, with a rim brake in the front and a 3 speed sturmey archer hub and 90mm rear.
I need to establish what sort of cable pull is needed for Sturmey-Archer drums and Shimano roller brakes before going much further. This page for the BL-R400 lever (I have those in my parts stash) does not have a check mark for roller brake compatibility. So I guess they require a fair bit of pull. Sturmey-Archer does levers, like the BLS81 here, that they claim work for “drum / roller / cantilever”. Since I think only Shimano makes roller brakes, I suppose that means SA drums and Shimano roller brakes require a similar cable pull. And that it’s similar to cantilevers. Well, that’s a start.
Maybe something like this.
Heh.cycle tramp wrote: ↑21 Oct 2024, 5:19pmVii) painting the words 'i like to be ridden fast and hard' along the top tube might mean you only need one bike lock instead of two
So not just the “supercommuter” he built?cycle tramp wrote: ↑21 Oct 2024, 5:19pmSomewhere on the forum is a photo of Brucey's bike with a front dynamo hub, 3 speed rear hub, cantilever rim brakes, with a set of dropped handlebars..
I found LuckyLuke’s machine there too (thanks for mentioning that earlier). Scroll down a few posts for photos of his machine.
Food for thought.
I see I complained about his V-brakes even back then. Just don’t like them.
- 21 Oct 2024, 5:19pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Drops bars with IGH and hub brakes, etc.
- Replies: 72
- Views: 5204
Re: Drops bars with IGH and hub brakes, etc.
My thoughts areSamuel D wrote: ↑21 Oct 2024, 11:05am The facts regrettably call for a third bicycle. What I need is a solo runabout for errands, pleasure, and unserious exercise. Something more gazelle than the Gazelle.
The catch is that it must live on the street. Public bike rack. Close to the sea.
My current unsure thinking:
Well, that’s already too much to start with. What do you say?
- fixed frame along the lines of Spa’s Audax Mono
- drop bars
- dynamo hub
- dynamo lamps front and rear
- maybe a drum brake at the front, which would leave me with one hub option as far as I can see: the Sturmey-Archer X-FDD
- given that lack of choice, maybe a hydraulic disc instead
- or a rim brake. I have a loose BR-R650 in my parts box
- brake levers … absolutely no idea
- full chain case if feasible
- flat pedals with reflectors. Suggestions?
- some sort of stand. Suggestions?
- some sort of lock or two
- maybe no mudguards.
- flimsy front rack with wire basket.
i) Mudguards are a must, full one's with a decent mudflap front & rear - reduces the need for a full chain case. Perhaps a hockey stick style chain guard, and front mudflap would be an easier but fairly effective compromise.
ii) If you're front forks are going to be carbon, I would stay away from drum brakes.
iii) I ran a 26" wheeled expedition frame, with a rim brake in the front and a 3 speed sturmey archer hub and 90mm rear. The 90mm rear worked straight out of the box and became more powerful as it wore in. Ran the bike like it for 3 years.
iv) wald front basket, very useful
V) probably a nurses lock for the rear wheel.
Vii) painting the words 'i like to be ridden fast and hard' along the top tube might mean you only need one bike lock instead of two
Somewhere on the forum is a photo of Brucey's bike with a front dynamo hub, 3 speed rear hub, cantilever rim brakes, with a set of dropped handlebars..
- 21 Oct 2024, 4:58pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Drops bars with IGH and hub brakes, etc.
- Replies: 72
- Views: 5204
Re: Drops bars with IGH and hub brakes, etc.
I fix Dutch bikes sometimes.Yes, I can see how it can be this heavy.
I can't give advice on the main problem, but here are a couple of tips:
I can't give advice on the main problem, but here are a couple of tips:
- Keep your feet drier on the Gazelle in the picture by fitting a long mudflap to the front guard. SKS make one, or you can make your own from a stiff rubbery material such as damp-proof-course tape (wider than a brick). It has been discussed here before.
- A Hebie Chainglider could be a substitute for a chaincase. It's a plastic thing that fits around the chainring and chain.
- Instead of drop bars had you considered some other shape of bars to achieve what you want? Butterfly bars are now out of fashion. You can add extensions in various shapes to give a higher grip on lower flat bars.
- 2 Sep 2024, 6:18pm
- Forum: On the road
- Topic: Can riding in the rain be not miserable? Also related safety questions for bad weather cycling
- Replies: 63
- Views: 15955
Re: Can riding in the rain be not miserable? Also related safety questions for bad weather cycling
There was so much water pouring out of the fells on Wednesday that even with decent mudguards and not-wide tyres, the amount of water coming from them was often greater than that coming from the sky, but we were often moving quickly, being on the tandem.cycle tramp wrote: ↑2 Sep 2024, 5:07pm On the provision that its not chucking it down, i've always enjoyed riding in the rain... very smells so much more fresh and amazing..
..building on alot of what's been said before, this is what I've learnt -
Have decent mudguards! Otherwise you will get twice as wet riding, from the road spray off the tyres - ideally you want a full back mudguard, and a front mudguard with a mudflap, and ideally you want the front mudguard to cover the top of your tyre.
The problem was so great that I found myself considering anti-spray materials for the insides of the front mudflap, even the guards themselves.
I agree with the point you make about wool, the right weave can be superb at seeing off the rain. We've centuries of understanding of how to keep dry without modern waterproof garments!
- 2 Sep 2024, 5:07pm
- Forum: On the road
- Topic: Can riding in the rain be not miserable? Also related safety questions for bad weather cycling
- Replies: 63
- Views: 15955
Re: Can riding in the rain be not miserable? Also related safety questions for bad weather cycling
On the provision that its not chucking it down, i've always enjoyed riding in the rain... everything smells so much more fresh and amazing..
..building on alot of what's been said before, this is what I've learnt -
Have decent mudguards! Otherwise you will get twice as wet riding, from the road spray off the tyres - ideally you want a full back mudguard, and a front mudguard with a mudflap, and ideally you want the front mudguard to cover the top of your tyre.
This is my current front mudguard, made from a cut down rear mudguard
More road spray comes off the top of your front tyre than you would believe - since fitting this mudguard my legs and feet have stayed drier...
Unless it's really raining hard, I'll wear a woolley jumper. Sheep are clever animals and wool is good. As you cycle, your body heat keeps the wool on the inside keeping it dry and helps the rain evaporate from the outside, as the rain evaporates, it keeps you cool.. its a bloomin amazing system...
Everything gets more slippery in the rain, white lining, metal drain covers, moss, chemical spills, and the first rain after a long period of dry weather makes the roads particularly greasy, so no heroics when you cycle, it's a case of 'steady eddy' to get there and back again without an incident.
..building on alot of what's been said before, this is what I've learnt -
Have decent mudguards! Otherwise you will get twice as wet riding, from the road spray off the tyres - ideally you want a full back mudguard, and a front mudguard with a mudflap, and ideally you want the front mudguard to cover the top of your tyre.
This is my current front mudguard, made from a cut down rear mudguard
Unless it's really raining hard, I'll wear a woolley jumper. Sheep are clever animals and wool is good. As you cycle, your body heat keeps the wool on the inside keeping it dry and helps the rain evaporate from the outside, as the rain evaporates, it keeps you cool.. its a bloomin amazing system...
Everything gets more slippery in the rain, white lining, metal drain covers, moss, chemical spills, and the first rain after a long period of dry weather makes the roads particularly greasy, so no heroics when you cycle, it's a case of 'steady eddy' to get there and back again without an incident.
- 22 Aug 2024, 4:24pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: First post: Gravel bike that doubles as winter road
- Replies: 22
- Views: 2998
Re: First post: Gravel bike that doubles as winter road
Mudguards. Really good mudguards.... and a mudflap for the front.. that way the winter bike may last more than one season...samm_spins wrote: ↑22 Aug 2024, 11:38am Hi All, long time lurker, first time poster!
Budget is sub £3000.
My 'want' is; a gravel bike that I can then change the tyres? or swap wheels so that it becomes capable winter road bike
My summer ride is 2016 Trek Domane 4.5 ... not for Scottish winter roads. Given that my road distances will be shorter in the winter it makes sense to have durable gravel bike (think easy Borders forest tracks more than anything extreme!)....
Many thanks for reading this far, what's your thoughts?
Cheers, Samm
- 21 Jun 2024, 1:11pm
- Forum: Bikes & Bits – Technical section
- Topic: Bike recommendation for commute to work...
- Replies: 198
- Views: 6841
Re: Bike recommendation for commute to work...
1. You have omitted lights. You have a few months before you will need them for commuting, so you can take your time to decide what you want. Whether or not you will commute in the winter on off-road tracks will be important in deciding what lights to get. If you will, then you will need a good quality front light to see by, rather than the sort suitable for lighted roads which are only suitable to be seen by. In that event you will have two options:
a. Rechargeable detachable lights. NB Those front lights made for off-road use by MTB riders are NOT suitable for road use, because they are effectively the equivalent of full beam/undipped car headlights, and dazzle other road users and pedestrians. Other posters should be able to suggest rechargeable front lights that are suitable for road use and will also provide good light for unlit off-road.
b. Hub dynamo lights. Many of us on this forum prefer these for commuting and general use. There is no need to remember to bring the lights or remove them, or to recharge them. They are always on the bike and you don't need to think about them once fitted. Spa Cycles have a wide range of dynamo hub front wheels, and again other posters should be able to advise on the merits of the different options - https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m10b0s170p0 ... ilt-Wheels. You will need a front and rear light, and Busch and Muller is a good brand. For off-road use I would want an 80 lux or more front light.
2. Tube - you need to get not just the right size, but the also the valve suitable for your bike (Presta). I like Schwalbe tubes, SV17 for 40mm presta valve - https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m14b0s123p4 ... nner-Tubes, or if it's for a deep rim the long valve version - https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m14b0s123p6 ... Long-Valve.
3. Pump - I would get a Topeak Morph, either the Mountain, Road or Mini versions, and keep it in your panniers. Some have the option of an inbuilt pressure gauge, but I don't bother about that and pump by feel. Don't use the fold out foot peg, because it's not strong and will readily break. Just use your upper body to push down on the pump resting on the ground. Lezyne make similar pumps which look nicer than the Topeak models, but unlike Topeak they have to be screwed on and off the valve stem. This is a bad design, because most modern inner tubes have removable screw in valve cores. Undoing the Lezyne pump can unscrew the valve core which will then be lost because the air pressure will expel it forcefully. Other posters will state that it's not a problem providing you remember to tighten the valve cores of every inner tube you buy, and/or to use the pressure relief button on the Lezyne pump. These are work-arounds for a flawed design. You do not need to do any of that with the Topeak pumps.
4. Mini-tool - Topeak Hexus or Topeak Ratchet Rocket Lite DX+ (version of Ratchet Rocket with chain tool). I prefer the latter, but separate bits does introduce a risk of losing bits. Although both incorporate tyre levers, I prefer to carry dedicated tyre levers, e.g. https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m13b0s72p10 ... et-of-3%29.
In the field the chain tool nowadays is mainly used to remove damaged links, i.e. either rejoin the chain with the existing quicklink/master link already on the chain, or add another quicklink/master link in place of the damaged links. Read this post by CJ (Cycling UK's former Technical Officer) to learn how to undo and reconnect a quicklink/master link without a special tool - viewtopic.php?p=1510495#p1510495. Incidentally, CJ's recommendation for mini-pliers carried on the bike are these - https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/tools-and-m ... ZT1011973X.
5. Puncture Kit - Reema Tip Top, e.g. https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m13b105s72p ... 02-Touring. Glueless patches are another option, but at least some brands are only suitable for temporary emergency repairs. Better to carry two spare tubes and use a Reema Tip Top to make a permanent repair later at your leisure to the punctured tube.
6. Panniers - Bite the bullet and get Ortliebs, either Backroller (roll top lid) or the Bikepacker (conventional lid). They are expensive, but you should get many years' (even decades') use from them. In the long run cheaper brands and copies of the Ortliebs are likely to be a false economy.
For example:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/luggage/ort ... -40-litre/
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/luggage/ort ... -40-litre/
Various other colours available, but I would go for the easy wipe clean shiny versions rather than the texturised 'Plus' fabric versions.
7. Mudguards - ideally ~10mm wider than the tyre. SKS/Bluemels are the goto brand, and do various different models. Never mind Mary Poppins' look, mudguards are all about function, not form: get full mudguards and make sure there is a large front mudflap (if necessary DIY with damp proof course or similar, or fit an aftermarket mudflap - https://rawmudflap.uk/).
8. Modern tyres are less puncture prone than those you used 30+ years ago. Neverthless, if commuting on off-road tracks or poor quality roads (especially strewn with debris or glass etc.), particularly in the winter, you may want to consider Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres (standard version or the tour version with more of an off-road tread). These are very puncture resistant, but reckoned to be draggy for pleasure riding. They are difficult to fit and remove (see this video by forum member 531colin - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4), but the puncture resistance should offset that. I would not suggest you fit Marathon Pluses to begin with, but if you have more than one or two punctures with the tyres supplied with the bike, they might be an option, especially come winter.
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m14b0s142p3 ... Plus-HS440
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m14b0s142p5 ... uard-HS619
a. Rechargeable detachable lights. NB Those front lights made for off-road use by MTB riders are NOT suitable for road use, because they are effectively the equivalent of full beam/undipped car headlights, and dazzle other road users and pedestrians. Other posters should be able to suggest rechargeable front lights that are suitable for road use and will also provide good light for unlit off-road.
b. Hub dynamo lights. Many of us on this forum prefer these for commuting and general use. There is no need to remember to bring the lights or remove them, or to recharge them. They are always on the bike and you don't need to think about them once fitted. Spa Cycles have a wide range of dynamo hub front wheels, and again other posters should be able to advise on the merits of the different options - https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m10b0s170p0 ... ilt-Wheels. You will need a front and rear light, and Busch and Muller is a good brand. For off-road use I would want an 80 lux or more front light.
2. Tube - you need to get not just the right size, but the also the valve suitable for your bike (Presta). I like Schwalbe tubes, SV17 for 40mm presta valve - https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m14b0s123p4 ... nner-Tubes, or if it's for a deep rim the long valve version - https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m14b0s123p6 ... Long-Valve.
3. Pump - I would get a Topeak Morph, either the Mountain, Road or Mini versions, and keep it in your panniers. Some have the option of an inbuilt pressure gauge, but I don't bother about that and pump by feel. Don't use the fold out foot peg, because it's not strong and will readily break. Just use your upper body to push down on the pump resting on the ground. Lezyne make similar pumps which look nicer than the Topeak models, but unlike Topeak they have to be screwed on and off the valve stem. This is a bad design, because most modern inner tubes have removable screw in valve cores. Undoing the Lezyne pump can unscrew the valve core which will then be lost because the air pressure will expel it forcefully. Other posters will state that it's not a problem providing you remember to tighten the valve cores of every inner tube you buy, and/or to use the pressure relief button on the Lezyne pump. These are work-arounds for a flawed design. You do not need to do any of that with the Topeak pumps.
4. Mini-tool - Topeak Hexus or Topeak Ratchet Rocket Lite DX+ (version of Ratchet Rocket with chain tool). I prefer the latter, but separate bits does introduce a risk of losing bits. Although both incorporate tyre levers, I prefer to carry dedicated tyre levers, e.g. https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m13b0s72p10 ... et-of-3%29.
In the field the chain tool nowadays is mainly used to remove damaged links, i.e. either rejoin the chain with the existing quicklink/master link already on the chain, or add another quicklink/master link in place of the damaged links. Read this post by CJ (Cycling UK's former Technical Officer) to learn how to undo and reconnect a quicklink/master link without a special tool - viewtopic.php?p=1510495#p1510495. Incidentally, CJ's recommendation for mini-pliers carried on the bike are these - https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/tools-and-m ... ZT1011973X.
5. Puncture Kit - Reema Tip Top, e.g. https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m13b105s72p ... 02-Touring. Glueless patches are another option, but at least some brands are only suitable for temporary emergency repairs. Better to carry two spare tubes and use a Reema Tip Top to make a permanent repair later at your leisure to the punctured tube.
6. Panniers - Bite the bullet and get Ortliebs, either Backroller (roll top lid) or the Bikepacker (conventional lid). They are expensive, but you should get many years' (even decades') use from them. In the long run cheaper brands and copies of the Ortliebs are likely to be a false economy.
For example:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/luggage/ort ... -40-litre/
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/luggage/ort ... -40-litre/
Various other colours available, but I would go for the easy wipe clean shiny versions rather than the texturised 'Plus' fabric versions.
7. Mudguards - ideally ~10mm wider than the tyre. SKS/Bluemels are the goto brand, and do various different models. Never mind Mary Poppins' look, mudguards are all about function, not form: get full mudguards and make sure there is a large front mudflap (if necessary DIY with damp proof course or similar, or fit an aftermarket mudflap - https://rawmudflap.uk/).
8. Modern tyres are less puncture prone than those you used 30+ years ago. Neverthless, if commuting on off-road tracks or poor quality roads (especially strewn with debris or glass etc.), particularly in the winter, you may want to consider Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres (standard version or the tour version with more of an off-road tread). These are very puncture resistant, but reckoned to be draggy for pleasure riding. They are difficult to fit and remove (see this video by forum member 531colin - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4), but the puncture resistance should offset that. I would not suggest you fit Marathon Pluses to begin with, but if you have more than one or two punctures with the tyres supplied with the bike, they might be an option, especially come winter.
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m14b0s142p3 ... Plus-HS440
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m14b0s142p5 ... uard-HS619