Cycling UK Forum

melw1 wrote:I *think* I've decided on the Lumicyle option.... I'm just pausing due to the price - more than I wanted to pay - but I think it will be the best option in the long run...... I think I'll get just the one lamp from them in the hope next year of finding a really good LED to supplement it with. It may just have to wait though till after christmas... It's the one that I really want so i guess it's worth waiting for...trouble is I'm just so impatient

Thank you to everyone for all your comments. Been really helpful

Before you do that check out ay up austalian lights.
http://www.ayup.com.auhttp://www.ayup.com.au/uk-shop-kits.html

Did you mean 130OLN on the original? Not 120 for 5 speed? If you meant 130 then you have no problem. If 120 you will probably have to cold set or have a bit of a squeeze when you are putting the wheel in and out. 120 oln is crying out for a proper fixed hub, then you can also run fixed not just ss if you fancy. Probably more expensive than a freehub though, oddly. The other option is to just get a new rim and spokes, remove the freewheel from your current hub, and spin on a bmx freewheel. Much the cheapest if you can build up the wheel yourself.

that nz site looks good, anyone experience of importing?

Fitting up my winter bike, and trying to decide if I need race blades or can fit full mudguards in, what is the minimum distance between the tyre and brake caliper brake bolt hole I can get away with, any recomendations on the slimmest 'guards?

well I've changed the mounting over on the band for the braze on fitting, so that isn't a problem. getting it to shift right is though, and I think I can see when on the inner plate of the mech. So I'm thinking I'll have to go to that 44. The lack of ramps and stuff probably doesn't help along with having to use an 8 speed chain on 6 speed rings.
To the other guy, I believe that the size of the inner ring is much less critical than the middle for getting a triple to work, as long at the bcd is such that you can fit a smaller ring.

Ok, I've got 2 front mechs, one triple, one double. I'm currently using the double to shift a 48-40-28 triple with an rsx brifter. I want to change to a 54-40-28, do I have a chance of getting this to shift or will I need a 44 middle ring. The mechs are just sora, chainrings are not ramped or pinned and it is an 8 speed chain on a 7 speed freewheel. The other issue is that the triple mech is braze on, the double band on, can I dissasemble the mechs and change the clamp over? It looks to be just allen key bolts there?
Thanks

I did this recently on our tandem, you are mainly limited to low end equipment - most likely to find sora, though I got some old rsx shifters so that I didn't have the thumbesifter. There are a few new sora sets about, eg http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/acatalog/i ... 7DPAA.html
or if you hang around on ebay then they do appear.

I is it this KF Kona Design front Hanger
http://www.fisheroutdoor.co.uk/public/i ... kkpoqf2ee2
?
thanks

I've had a look at my current on more closely, and see that the adjuster is on with a thread that drops into the hanger, with a flat on one side of the top lip so it doesn't rotate, so hopefully I can just use an unthreaded one. Thanks all.

I saw the upward hanger on sheldon brown, but the $100 dollars to order from the states seems a bit steep. Not quite convinced about the design too, surely it is asking for the nut to loosing on the fork crown, and the hanger to rotate?

I've changed my tandem to use sti, so it now has aero routed brake cables, it has got cantilevers and the cable guide on the headset is quite close to the handlebars so the cable is very sharply curved, and i have to have the bars quite high. Does anyone know where to get (or have that they don't need) a deep drop cable guide with an adjustment barrel, that will fit on a quill stem?