Cycling UK Forum

SA_SA_SA wrote:Thanks, but those are expensive and I just want a roll of tape.

Certainly sir.

But there are different kinds of tape, optimised for different viewing conditions and different kinds of mounting surface.

Diamond Scotchlite has the best performance at small entrance and observation angles. Needs a rigid surface with large radius of curvature (~15cm or more).
Won't work on a bicycle frame. Rarely usable on bicycles. This is the stuff used to outline the back of HGVs.

SOLAS tape works over a much wider range of entrance angles, but again is optimised for small observation angles. Works well on curved surfaces. Some versions suitable for use on fabric base.

Scotchlite 8850 (and similar) has reduced peak performance - at small entrance and observation angles - but better performance at larger observation angles than diamond or SOLAS.
Different versions available: sew-on, iron-on, self-adhesive. This is roughly what is used on EN 471 industrial "hi-vis" clothing


Now what do you plan to attach this tape to ?

And in what pattern do you plan to use it ?

If the answer is little bits here and there, you're not trying to be visible, you're just trying to show you care, or looking for a placebo.
To be an effective aid to visibility, bits less than ~25cm^2 ( 2"x2") in area are somewhat pointless. 50mm wide stripes 30cm+ long which outline you are more useful.

Little bits of reflective stuff just don't help. The visual system of the person who you want to see you will reject them as noise. Thats's why industrial Hi-vis looks the way it does.

Mick F wrote:by inserting a cut inner inside and cutting though both of them at once.

Right.

http://www.toolandfix.com/ck-cable-and- ... t3744.html

Works for me. Also cuts mudguard stays neatly, which seems to be within spec for them.

For brake outers, may use a Dremel to make the end very tidy, but not so sure about this - the heat from the grinder can melt the cable liner

Insert offcut of gear/brake cable inside outer, then cut the whole thing with cable cutters.

That seems to give a neat cut without crushing the outer. Some of the Shimano cables have quite brittle outers that break up at the end otherwise.

I've had success with drilling a hole in the bolt with a 2mm drill bit for steel, using a dremel, followed by a screw extractor in the resulting hole.

Raleigh North Rounder: RNH360 ?
About 71mm rise.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=29591&p=234982#p234982

We have a few bikes with long cage ("SGS") Shimano mechs that regularly have different cassettes, and I leave the chain long when changing to a smaller cassette to try to improve the shifting. Because of the effect you refer to.

Just went out for a bit of shopping.
Picked up a couple of wheels, and saw one of these: http://salsacycles.com/bikes/fargo/

APEX brifters. SRAM X9 rear mech. Medium cage with a 12-36 cassette.

I see what you mean about the non-offset jockey cogs. The jockey wheel seemed almost concentric with the pivot.

This suggests 10sp X7/X9/X0/XX SRAM would work with Campy brifters.

But they might not work so well with a road cassette as WiFli, because of the lack of offset?

Thanks.

Brucey wrote:the top pulley is slightly offset, so as the chainring gap increases, it will become progressively more difficult to use the biggest sized rear sprocket.

You mean that when the chain is more slack, the jockey wheel will move closer to the cassette ? Or something else ?
Is that true of most rear mechs ? I don't think I really understand the difference between how Shimano & SRAM rear mechs work.

Brucey wrote:It'll be interesting to see if you can do it or not; an extra 7T capacity is about 2.5" of bottom pulley movement (3.5" less the increased wrapround on both pulleys).

Is it that much ? Is it more like 3.5"/2 = 1.75" of rearward movement ?
Certainly would not want the chain to be longer than necessary.
Larger tension wheel might help a bit.

32T sprocket capacity seems to be about the only information they give. I expect a 34 would be OK.

The takeup (total capacity) is clearly at least 37T. I'd like to use 44T. Wondering if anyone had tried that yet.

Anyone know if an SRAM Wifli rear mech will take a 34T cassette sprocket ?
With a 22T range at the front ?

SRAM's website isn't very forthcoming. I might be missing something.

Keywords: Shimergo ramergo rampagnolo srampagnolo

Brucey wrote:

JEJV wrote: Unfortunately, Sheldon was not a stickler for detail.

possibly not, but the shimano method and SBs definitions amount to the same thing unless you are going to worry about the odd mm or so.

At the front there should be this much tolerance anyway.

Sheldon's method can put you out by 2mm+ - more than a BB size. So you can use up all the available tolerance - and more - by making the wrong measurement.
Before any other tolerances are added.

Brucey wrote:At the rear, few frames are tracked accurate to 1mm or better, or indeed stay that way.

We're talking about front shifting, so that's not so relevant.

Brucey wrote:chainline;

http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html

cheers

Unfortunately, Sheldon was not a stickler for detail.

JEJV wrote:

Malaconotus wrote: I have measured my rear chainline using Sheldon Brown's method here.

Sheldon Brown and Shimano differ regarding chainline measurement.
This used to be on the shimano website: http://www.xza5.net/pipe214/CTC_10032/h ... inline.pdf
So, for a Shimano front mech, it's probably good for the chainset to be close to Shimano's idea of the right chainline - +/- a BB size.

reohn2 wrote:BTW JohnW I wouldn't go back to friction and D/Tube levers if you paid me

Yeah. Take my hands off the controls to change gear ?!?
Not in this century.

In phase.

But it's the Crank Length you want to think about. 8YO's come in a variety of sizes, but 150mm cranks are probably in the ballpark.

A colleague of mine got Highpath to drill an extra set of holes in the cranks, so they can be used at 150mm or 170mm. I think 20mm is the minimum hole separation.

That way grown-ups can still ride it. (Might need a longer seatpost).

What you probably want is a 9-speed Shimano MTB mech. This will work fine with the 10-speed 11-32 SRAM cassette and Shimano STI road levers.
If you search this forum, you'll find what the currently recomended models are, but any "top normal" 9-speed Shimano MTB mech will do.

With the Apex rear mech, you'd need to buy either SRAM or Campy shifters as well, or use some gadget to change the pull-per-click.