Cycling UK Forum

Bike back from the workshop with NO judder!

The original Tektro CR520 cantilevers, which worked brilliantly for over a 1000 miles before steerer tube cut down, and therefore before I removed front forks, were replaced with a pair of Avid Shorty 6 "mini" cantilevers. The latter don't have so much play between them and the bosses as the Tektro did.

But the Tektro CR520s pre fork removal were brilliant and had a good "feel". The Avid "mini" cantis do not stop as efficiently. BUT they don't throw me off the bike from the judder!

None of this explains WHY this problem occurred ONLY after a fork removal and refitting of all original components.

mick skinner wrote:hi pete75,

i've just read your begining of this thread and not any of the replies so forgive me if this has already been answered, how does having spds reduce your climbing ability? that seem so illogical to me (tempted to write that it seems retarded)

I agree. For me THE BIG advantage of SPDs is going uphill, in the saddle AND honking. Never had a foot pull out even with the most minimal pedal spring tension. Maybe more use and growing confidence will show benefits?

Cable hanger is in the same place directly on top of the headset cover. Also tried putting a 3mm spacer between the headset and hanger. There was no difference to the brake judder either way.

Given that applying the front brake in anger after 20 yards in the complete dry is asking to be dumped on the tarmac, I'll not attempt damp or wet!

There is obviously a very basic BIG problem that me and now a professional mechanic have yet to sort.

Watch this space.

Just spent an informative hour at a recommended professional cycle repair shop and City & Guilds course provider. Problem still not identified!

However, it doesn't appear to be the headset.

Brake pads changed, wheel rim surface cleaned, front fork drop out alignment adjusted, front wheel trued slightly and fitting an alternative front wheel still provided severe judder under hard braking.

Have left bike at workshop for more ruminating, head scratching and cantilever changing (which I have already tried).

In one way, I'm glad I wasn't made to look like a plonker for missing a washer or something silly. But it will be interesting to find out WHAT the problem is and get back on the bike safely.

Cantilever retaining bolts and washers checked and tight.

Headset checked again and double checked against Cane Creek S2 exploded diagram.

Nothing's changed other than removal of forks, maybe 25mm cut off steerer tube, professionally done using correct tools at the brilliant Spa Cycles, and refitting by me. All worked perfectly well previously.

Yes I do have a cable hanger attached to the steerer tube, but not a problem before.

Not changed brake pad alignment - wonderful braking previously.

Same amount of spacers under stem.

Re- checked and re-checked A Headset adjustment.

Re- greased headset bearing surfaces and steerer tube.

I bet it's something silly? But the bike is unrideable if front brakes are required!

Removed my 531 forks form a Longstaff touring bike to have the steerer tube cut to length. Re-assembled today and now have very scary fork judder when applying the brakes. There doesn't appear to be any slack in the Cane Creek S2 headset, and the Tektro CR520 cantilevers seem to be functioning properly. It's happening with two different front wheels.

Any ideas?

Are there any viable alternatives to Garmin's Topo? Or is one tied to the unit's proprietery mapping?

From what Garmin let you preview on their website - I agree it looks dreadful and with great gaps in paths and roads!!

Question questions!

Having one in car would have saved my girlfriend and I almost running out of petrol whilst lost in a hire car at 3am in Spain - I was assured gf knew how to get to her old house!

So far then, I've learnt that the Vista HCx if loaded with some mapping will be good for cycle touring and day rides where one wants to navigate using pre plotted routes/tracks/thingies. At a cost of £300ish. Mmmmm.

Thanks Robert82, andrew_s and toontra your replies much appreciated. Slowly getting my head round this I think!

What mapping is suggested for hill walking with the Vista HCx?

And what mapping is suggested for in car satnav with the Vista HCx?

Thanks, Paul

I want to navigate using a Garmin Vista HCx and plan and plot routes in advance. Maybe use it in car - but not the main requirement.

In addition the the GPS unit do I have to purchase maps on CD or Micro SD cards to load into the unit for it to clearly navigate. Is there NO mapping whatsoever installed? Or can I create .gpx files from say Google Maps on my Apple Mac and just transfer that to the GPS unit - is that sufficient? Are there any considerations SD card versus CD?


I've just looked on Garmin's Topo MapSource web preview, and the interface looks dreadful. Is it really suitable/usable as a cycling and walking aid? Local paths and even tarmacadamed lanes were impossible to follow, with sections missing!

I found mention of Garmin's Metroguide mapping on the AUK site, but this seems discontinued for Europe, and having found a V9 available via Amazon, it needed a paid for third party fix to work fully on the Vista HCx

Could anyone explain in simple precise terms what one needs to actually BUY to achieve my goal? If so, i'd be awfully pleased.

Thanks, Paul

Ordered a pair of Wildoo ones a couple of days ago. Wll take some pics when they arrive.

Also have the Italian Road Bike ones, but haven't got around to fitting them yet, partly cos of the fiddle and unwrapping of bar tape factors.

I want to wear a helmet after a bad fall and head wound.

I sweat a lot. I am going to dislike wearing ANYTHING on my head.

I have 2 helmets that I mail ordered in front of me.

What's the helmet wearing forum members opinion regarding the number of vents as opposed to the size, hence less holes?

One is a Giro Monza, and the other is a Bell Alchera. I have to send one back soon. The Giro has smaller but more vents. The Bell has fewer and larger vents.

They both seem to fit. But anything on my head is alien to me. And I can't go for a ride up Llanberis Pass to find out, cos I want to send one back!

Any advice on which might be cooler, or whether there will be any NOTICEABLE difference?

I see you mentioned Windows Mobile 5 or 6. Would that work with a Mac? Or is it just a matter of transferring data between the unit and laptop via the SD card?

How would you mount such a device on to handlebars?

Excuse my ignorance?

Eureka!

Here's another worthwhile link now that I know not to leave out that forward slash - WHY is this so tedious???

Go To More GPS Links

I need a cuppa or something!