Cycling UK Forum

Not recently thanks for the reminder

Could these 2 part of the Highway Code be of any help.

Also this might shed some light.
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Do either of the 2 groups mentioned comply with the above.
If not does this reflect badly on all cycling to the general public.

As TC said Pertex jackets are very good. I also have a Karrimor Pertex it is now about 10 years old and I realy like the way it feels.
Pertex seems to have droped out of fashon for cycling garments (pity) and would seem to be mostly used in sleeping bags.
There are now at least 2 types of this fabric, below is a link to a cycling shop that explains a great deal about how the fabric works. Unfortunatly the web site does not show any jackets or if they say are still made.
http://www.bromleybike.co.uk/ishop/399/shopscr2233.html
You could try ringing them to see if they still make them.
Pertex is a British made fabric so might not find favor with some manufactures.
This is a link to a jacket after I did a Google search for pertex cycling jacket. I do not have one but they look alright for the money.
http://www.hikebikeandride.com/Products ... oduct=1812

Sarah I checked the bike you said and the only thing that stuck in my mind was that the Treck bikes had the threads for mudguards are a rear rack. I could not see if they were there on the Marin.
Personaly I would want mudguards and I like to have a rear rack.
If the shop does not want to spend time checking and fitting the bike as to the size in a reply in your other post, I would say find another shop. Also ask questions as to why they say a particular size.

Mike F is correct (we have come to expect this) . Here are a few pictures that I hope will show you the set up.
This shows the stops fitted to where the shifters used to be. If you buy OE unboxed they might not come in the package. These are £5 from SJS.


This shows the set up on a bike. Your bike might not have the cable fittings of the frame but this does not matter.

They are also adjusters.
I hope this helps.

That sounds painful hope it's better soon.

I damaged my knee ligaments in January. I was out on my bike and found an icy patch so got off my bike and slipped ( Bambi like ) trying to save the new bike I had bought for Christmas.
I am due at the hospital on Monday so I hope they will be able to help.
I some times use my bike in a trainer with the right pedal removed resting the leg on a box, this is the only exercise I can get as I walk with a stick.
One suggestion is to try toe clips as you do not have to twist your foot to get your foot of the pedal.

In the last year I have replaced the drive trains on 3 of our bikes, replacing down tube to shifters to combined brake/shifters on 1. The Campag were bought for an old Bianchi with a front double (as Mike F said it will work with this).
The main reason for doing this was I could see that road bikes were changing to 10 speed and I did not want to have to buy new rear parts as well.
The instruction book that came with my Ergo shifters is as Mike F says and the web site says the same, but they are dated 2006. The instructions do say about not all functions not being available for certain Ergopower models. The only thing I can think is that the paper work has not caught up with the changes yet. Mike has a lot more knowledge han me about Campag as I am used to Shimano. Thus I tend to use their terminology.
The Campag will be used for a touring bike as they work with Shimano MTB front chain rings (this was luck but thanks to CJ for his article pointing me down the correct road.
A few things I have found is that front loading Quill stems (from SJS) have been a good purchase, I do not ruin the handle bar tape if I need to swop or remove parts.
I would suggest getting the band so that you can use the front deraileur for braze on fitting as the clamp on type do seem to be going out of fashon.
This is a very personal observation, Dual pivot (Edinburgh Bike Coop £20 long drop 57mm) with V brake blocks worked better than travel agents (I found these very spongy. Dia comp287v worked realy well with V brakes.
If you can get to Birmingham I will set up my Dawes Sonoran with what ever you choise and you can try with Ergo, or 3 brake types or anthing else I can help you with.

The 07 Campag Xenon 9 speed (says 9 on the box) are indexed and match Shimano Altus front MTB triple.
With the chain in the bigest ring and the deraileur plates sitting over the centre of the ring. I press the lever to change down the deraileur moves to the centre of the middle ring, changing down to the small ring it moves again to the centre (I took the cables off the MTB the fitted bars stem & levers, not doing any adjustments to the deraleur).
When changing up the lever can be moved halfway to trim but must be moved the full click to change up. The best way I can describe it is 2 full clicks with 2 trim positions with no click in between.
You can only trim on the change up not down.
The front does indeed match the Shimano MTB perfectly but does not match road triples with out chain rub.

The best example of metal fatigue that I can think of was the De Havalind Commet airplane. The repeated stress of being pressurised led to cracks around the corners of the square windows (the corner concentrated to load in the skin around the area). This was not attributed to imperfections in the metal but the design

This is the Octalink bottom bracket.

This is the Square taper
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So if your chainset does not have a Octalink BB you will have to fit a new one.

I also use a space grip. I have it hanging down from the bars so the light shines under the bar bag. I did wonder about the weight of the lights pulling down on it but have not had any trouble (the lights are also upside down). The twin lamps with seperate battery would probably work better in the long term as the main weight is the batteries.

You could put the axle in a vice with it upright and the jaws griping the centre, or use some form of grips in the centre. Any damage to the surfsce will not effect the threads making it easier to get back together.

That does look cool in both senses. I bet it is very comfortable to wear. By bald spots might feel the drafts.

The OP could possibly have reasonable cause. Not certain about the rest of us.

Personaly I will only lock my bike if it is out of site, in large towns or cities with a D lock and cable to something solid. Also if with more than one bike they are faced in oposite directions to make it harder to wheel away together.