Cycling UK Forum

Spinnaker repair tape: a quite fine ripstop nylon cloth tape. Put a piece inside the lining and a piece over the face of the lining making a sandwich with the lining in the middle. Should make a repair that will withstand machine washing and probably outlive the jacket.
Alternatively if you are not too fussy about appearance duck tape.

thirdcrank wrote:Afaik, to give priority means "to allow to go first." Without phoning a friend, the only place where I can think of priority specifially being mentioned in legislation is in relation to the various forms of pedestrian crossing. I think the courts have always used the literal meaning so a driver who passes very close behind a pedestrian on a crossing is not in contraventuon of the regulations

It's called "failing to give precedence to pedestrians on the crossing" and is covered by various Pedestrian Crossing Regulations.

If your friend has holiday insurance surely they can have their insurance ammended to include the bike.

531colin wrote:No you won't.

Watch the vid. here...http://www.spacycles.co.uk/

Great video.
My Contis were so hard to fit that I wasn't going to touch them again unless really necessary.
Now I'm looking forward to changing them round.

I had an early incarnation of these tyres and within a few hundred miles they looked a lot worse.
The sidewall was covered in "threads". I was not impressed and 2,000 miles from home; however they lasted the rest of that tour about 1,300 miles then continued being used for another 2 years of commuting and cycling in general.
They lasted me well over 5,000 miles and still had visible tread but the look of the sidewalls would not have inspired confidence.(Importantly there were no holes through the sidewall and the inside surface was perfect.)
They have a very thin sidewall for a touring tyre I suppose that makes them light.

For any New Scientist readers almost the same question is asked as "This week's question" in "The Last Word" page of the magazine 2 July 2011.

Or you could try the old fashioned way.
For insertion a hammer and a piece of flat wood.
For removal a piece of broomhandle or pipe.
Not much force is needed for either operation.

I bought a Nuovo Record "Groupset" in 1983. As tatanab says you bought it piece by piece ie hubs / Chainset / rear mech / front mech / gear levers / seat pin / seat bolt / headset / pedals / brakes / headset. All in nice cream coloured boxes with "World Champion stripes". Costing me around a months pay at the time.
The first I remember the parts being sold as a "groupset" was a complete set of either NR or SR components in a wooden case I can't remember offhand what it was in commemoration of. Sometime in the mid 80s.

If you mean:
What was the retail price of a Campagnolo Nuovo Record groupset in 1979 ?
It would have been around £250-£300

I have never liked or used a rear carrier for bikes on a car. Preferring the roofrack option, mine (Thule) held the bike upside down with the handlebars and saddle clamped to the roofbars.
I never noticed any appreciable increase in fuel consumption.

Other factors such as weight carried by the car and driving speed should also to be taken into consideration.
For example:
If someone is used to driving a car with one other passenger then fills it with as many persons are there are seats, their attendant luggage, one bike for each on a roofrack (or rear carrier) then drives at the maximum legal speed on a motorway is going to notice an obvious effect on fuel consumption not to mention handling.

Have you tried tightening the spindle bolts. Maybe the chainside one has been loosened by the tiniest ammount by the fall.

I would dismantle clean and reassemble the bottom bracket and chainrings, this way you you can see if anything is bent or worn also check the allignment of the front mech for good measure.

Edwards wrote:............If I had a choice the lights would all be replaced with stop signs on all the approaches.

If the lights are off: each approach lane has a stop line; meaning by law that vehicles must stop at the stop line unless their exit is clear.

Mick F wrote:Do you have a project on the go?

Unfortunately not.
It was just something that came into my mind while I was cycling this morning. Although hub gearing is starting to appeal to me again (not having used hub gears since the mid 1970's).
I am familliar with mixing and matching chainwheels and sprockets (derailleur system)for touring to give me the best range of gears for the load to be carried.
I was riding a small wheeled bike today with derailleur gears, 52/42 and 9-26 using the higher end of the range and felt that my average speed on the flat was a fraction less than with 700c.
I know that depending on the size of chainwheel and selection of sprockets a 17" and a 700c wheel could have about the same distance covered per crank revolution.
I thought that maybe the SA had different internal gears for different sizes of rim. The same principle of chainrings and sprockets to suit the rims is the obvious and most economical answer especially for something as complex as a SA.

Earlier this year in a charity shop I got a copy of Sloane'sNew Bicycle Maintainance Manual which has a section on SA maintainance which has I think planted the seed of interest in my mind.

Thanks

Did/do Sturmey Archer hub gears have ratios that matched the intended size of wheel rim to be used.
ie. Would a hub for a Moulton or RSW with small wheels be exactly the same as a hub used on a 26/27/or28" wheel.