Cycling UK Forum

Thirdcrank,

From Mick's description it doesn't sound as daunting a job as I had imagined. I'll probably give it a go some time.

Max

Mick,

The freewheel was a good quality job & has been well cared for - like I said it only sounds a bit off, and a clean & re-lube should fix it. This bike was my first ever BIG purchase after getting a proper job & I want restore it. Shouldn't be that difficult - I was at the Netley Marsh Steam Fair last weekend, and some of the restoration jobs on show were absolutely awe-inspiring!

Max

Mick,

It's been an on/off problem with mine. The original front mech & the first & second set of Esge muguards were fine (replaced after being driven into while stopped waiting to enter a roundabout). Then the combination of a new front changer & narrower (oddly enough) but squarer cross-section mudguards gave trouble: enough to make changing up a bit iffy. Now I've fitted SKS 45mm guards which have bigger clearance but a rounder cross-section, and moved the changer down ever so slightly. The mudguard still gets slightly pushed when changing, but with no ill effects.

Max

Mick,

Looking at your picture, I wonder if you get the same problem I do: there is inadequate clearance between the front mech & the rear mudguard, so it deflects the mudguard slightly when shifting up to the outer ring?

Max

Chris, Mick,

Thanks for your replies - most re-assuring! As you suggest, I'd like to keep this bike in as near original condition as possible, so I'd rather not replace the wheels. They were rebuilt about 7 years ago using 700C rims on the original hubs (Campag record hi-flange), which had new cups/cones/bearings fitted. It sounds like I can achieve most of it except perhaps for the freewheel. The cogs appear OK, it's just the freewheel action itself seems a bit noisy & gritty. Maybe dismantling, cleaning & lubricating it would be enough. I'd rather get the shop to do it, as I'm sure if I try it will go Sprong.

I've got some pictures of the bike in its current state. I'll try & post one when I get time to figure out how!

Cheers,

Max

Hi,

I have a lovely old bike which was built for me back in 1982 by Beta Bikes, around a Mercian frame. After a few years of neglect, I'm getting back into regular cycling again, and I'd like to restore/renovate it. The frame needs to be re-enamelled, which I assume Mercian could do for me. Most of the other parts are OK as far as I can tell, with the exception of the rear mech, chain, and chainrings. The freewheel & headset are maybe worth replacing while I'm doing everything else. The bike had fairly regular use & maintenance until about 7 years ago.
Now this bike dates back before cassette hubs & indexed shifters. I have ratchet levers on the down tube; a six speed threaded freewheel type cluster; and two chainrings. I can't remember off hand the numbers of teeth etc, except that it is a wide 'touring' type range. The original rear mech is a Huret Duopar Eco, which could handle the wide-range cluster.
Surprisingly enough, the gear range still suits my 52 year-old self, and I'd really like to just replace worn-out parts with modern equivalents. But things have changed out of all recognition!

- Can I expect a modern '8-speed' chain to work properly?
- Are threaded freewheels of decent quality still around?
- Will a modern rear mech work with the existing ratchet levers, or can it only be used with indexed shift? If the latter, can they be downtube mounted?
- What is the difference between 'MTB' & 'road' gears, and which should I be looking at? Why?
- Will I have to change the front mech and/or chainset (Stronglight) to suit modern chains? Are replacement chainrings available?

I'm going to take it round to a LBS soon, but I'd like to get some preliminary ideas & background information first. Please feel free to suggest anything you feel might be helpful!

Thanks in advance,

Max