Cycling UK Forum

I've built wheels using 26" sputnik rims with shimano small flange hubs. I used 262mm for the front and 262 / 260 for the rear, the lengths were fine. Using the DT Swiss spoke calculator or the EDD spoke calculator these lengths would correspond to an ERD of 541mm. An ERD of 537 would have you ...

I'm no expert, but is it possible that the bar end shifter is mounted incorrectly so that it is not pulling enough cable? The bar end shifter sits on a square mount and I seem to remember reading somewhere that if it is mounted 90 degrees out, then the cable pull is affected.

I had the same problem and found it very annoying! I did not want to use excessive force on the seatpost clamp bolt. So, I purchased a seatpost clamp (30.0 mm) and a seatpost shim (27.2 to 30.0mm) and cut the shim to fit inside the extra seatclamp. This extra clamp was then tightened around my exist...

According to shimano techdocs the m770 rear hub uses the axle Y3CZ98010 and the T780 hub also uses the same axle Y3CZ98010. If I was in your position I would buy a T780 rear hub from chain reaction cycles for £31.99 and that would hopefully give you other spares as well, including a freehub.

I think some seat tubes have a bigger O/D at the top. This is for extra strength and to allow tig welded joints to be made. A 28.6 seat clamp would therefore be too small.

No doubt, someone who knows about lubricants will come along and give their advice but if I was in your situation I would try automatic transmission fluid.

Perhaps I need to clarify my post above - I used Tektro RL520 brake levers for V brakes with SD 7's. As was pointed out drop bar brake levers for cantis will not work well at all.

The Avid SD 7 length of arm from centre of pivot to top of arm, is 107mm. That is the arm that does not have the cable anchor bolt. I have used SD 7's on a LHT with flat bars and with mudguards - no problems, lots of clearance. I have also used SD 7's with Tektro drop levers on a different bike and ...

If you still have not removed the bolt, buy a 9mm Allen key and file it slightly so that it can be bashed into the now enlarged 8mm hexagon "hole". OR if the crank bolt has a plastic dust shield, prize it out, drill a hole or notch in the larger diameter base and use a punch and hammer. Yo...

It could be that the bottom bracket you are using is giving a chainline that is too small for the LX front derailleur. The LX derailleur probably works best with a chainline of about 50mm. The XD 2 chainset with a 110mm bottom bracket produces a 46 mm or so chainline. You may need a longer bottom br...

You are correct with the ratcheting direction. As for the washers.......?

Could the problem of not being able to find replacement cones be temporarily solved by fitting balls of a different size? By that I mean rear hubs normally use 1/4" (6.35mm) balls, so could 6.5mm balls (or 6.0mm) be fitted instead? Presumably the balls will then contact with a different (unworn...

SJS cycles do Tacx T4000 Sealed Jockey Wheels, the pics shows them with 10 teeth. They are for 7/8 speed and come with various spacers to suit the derailleur they are to used in.

As mentioned above, actually trying the bike out is the only way to getting correct fit. There are so many factors to consider - frame size (which can be measured in a variety of different ways, standover height, top tube length, how much steerer tube is above the headset so that you can get the cor...

The answer to all these arguments is staring us in the face - a wooden bottom bracket spindle with wooden cranks, nailed on!
Why not go the whole hog, wooden frame, wooden wheels, wooden tyres, wooden sprockets, wooden chain, wooden work!