Cycling UK Forum

Hi

@thirdcrank
I too can see the logic, but pretty much every bag and item of cycling clothing that I own has a white reflective strip, logo or piping sewn in and visible rearward, cue Altura Night Vision

christmas tree cyclist is better than what now seems to be known as a ninja

Christmas Tree it is then

Regards
tim-b

Hi

My experience of them is that they take up far too much handlebar if you are going to mount the basics (for me at least) of lights and a computer and still make use of the levers. There are ways around this, e.g. hang lights below rather than above the bars, computer on stem, etc.

Depending on their position they extend the length of cable outer taped to your bars so that your bars are no longer circular in section exacerbating the problem of lack of space for certain clamps.

On the plus side, a friend has problems with grip. The 90degree change allows him to squeeze the brakes better while maintaining STi levers on his dropbars, which is where my levers ended up. Fitting is easy, and if you are lucky with unfrayed cable inners, etc, should cost no more than the cost of the levers to fit.

Regards
tim-b

Hi

thirdcrank wrote,

I think that any rear facing reflectives other than red ones are probably illegal on luggage etc.

Ooops! The white reflective strips on my Super C Audax (photo above) were stitched onto the pockets by Carradice
The yellow belt would otherwise be around my waist and facing rearward in any case (pardon the luggage pun), but I can't abide belts when cycling

I note the word "probably", does anyone have chapter and verse on this complex area?

Edit: with light mornings now I reckon I've about six months to bottom this

Regards
tim-b

Hi
I couldn't attach a rear light to the bag in a way that I was happy with during my winter months commute, my 2p-worth...



The lights and pump are attached to a Carradice Bagman Expedition support

And in the dark (lights off)...



Regards
tim-b

Hi
There have been a few different threads on this, which I think are the same BB
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=82038 replacement
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=82147&hilit=bb+sleeve+trek suitable glue
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=82599&p=737995&hilit=bb+sleeve#p737995 the fix
How successful has it been? I don't know...
Regards
tim-b

@MikeF
Hi

From the instructions, not my memory now...4 x AAA 1.5VDC...Do not use high current batteries or accumulators...(no mention of battery chemistry)

I take accumulator to be an energy accumulator, i.e. rechargeable battery

Regards
tim-b

@MikeF
Hi

For example, I have an LED torch that the maker specifically advises against using with rechargeables or damage will occur
They don't specify why, but I understand that it's to do with the torch having a resistor to limit current, rather than a more elaborate circuit for regulation

In my torch the discharge characteristics of rechargeables can damage the LED through overheating and, as a cyclist, I'd be very wary of damaging an LED that I'm relying on to see by and be seen

Regards
tim-b

Hi
Some electronics won't take anything other than alkaline batteries because rechargeables are capable of damaging unregulated circuits. It's never as simple as you think...
Regards
tim-b

Hi
Galvanic corrosion happens when dissimilar metals make electrical contact with a conductive electrolyte, water plus crud in the case of bikes.
I don't know enough about the chemistry, however grease/anti-seize will slow the corrosion process down http://www.seaplanes.org/mambo/UserFile ... ontrol.pdf
Regards
tim-b

Hi

Truvativ GXP on my commuter, 8500 miles and three winters so far.
http://www.sram.com/truvativ/technologi ... om-bracket if you want add technologies into the mix. It happened to be fitted to a bargainous bike.

I've got Shimano Hollowtech II on the other bikes, but they're many miles younger

I've not voted because (whisper) they're all still going (oh dear!)

Regards
tim-b

Hi

My personal favourite are Koolstop salmon http://www.koolstop.com/english/rim_pads.html not the cheapest, but they work well throughout the seasons for me

You'll get as many choices as replies to this question I suspect

Regards
tim-b

Hi

If I've looked at the correct model then you have a Specialized Comp A1 Premium Aluminium fork with Cr-Mo steerer, which explains why you've got what seems to be rust where the stem fits. The rust (if that's what it is) is a problem in itself on a high-stress area, so get some further advice.

As you say, the handlebar stem is 6061 aluminium alloy, and the headset cone is also aluminium alloy.

Hopefully the aluminium parts are painted/coated to isolate them electrically from the steel, if not then you could have a battle on your hands so go carefully http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

Regards
tim-b

Hi

+1

On my brake shoes I've found the screws to be a pain. They catch all of the road crud and, mudguards or not, are reluctant to undo. At such a small size the heads break/round off, etc.

The closed end of the shoe should face forward and holds the brake block in when braking, the pin is only there for...well I don't actually know, reversing?

Regards
tim-b

Hi

Maintaining a cadence is one of the reasons for gearing

A gear change allows you to change your cadence to where you're comfortable
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/t ... ers-16394/

To address your question, 13mph fully laden seems pretty reasonable to me, if you find it difficult to maintain a comfortable cadence then I would consider changing the cassette. Bear in mind that this could be an issue when you undertake hillier tours.

Regards
tim-b