Cycling UK Forum

Anyone done a headset on a Tricross. I am told its an integrated one but every one i find on the web is based around cartridge bearings. Mine has (had) caged balls. Over the past years I have happily bunged new balls in and have even rotated the races by 90 degrees. Its finally had it. What can I replace it with/ Don't want to spend 40 quid on something I am selling, which is what Cane Creek IS sets are. i am told that these are what I need but only in theory.
Will any IS go in or do I need to look for something CC compatible? Lots about under 20 quid which is what I need.

Built a new bike. Only used things BB and CS. 300 miles in get a click. New BB fitted. 200 miles more and I get the click but worse. Swap or replace everything. Grease and clean cranks/Bb interface. Swear a lot. Consider grinder. By chance swap pedals to use different shoes. Click goes , reverse process ,click returns. try another bike. CLICK.
300 mile old MTB SPDs, 520's . Are they strippable?

Bit of a bodge I know but first get that fixed sprocket on mega tight. I mean tight. Then do the same with the BB lock ring. hammer it ! Here comes the easy bit. Clean both the hub and the sprocket until there is no grease or paint on the interface. Then splash some salty water on before assembly. The alloy/steel corrosion will lock the bugger on.
How do i know this? I had to remove one one day that needed a grinder due to the corrosion

Having long regreted selling my Kaff, might I do my very best to persuade you that all those options are **** and (size dependant ) you might sell it instead?

Ta for the band on suggestions.
As for the age. Less than 30 years of cossetting means as good as new.
I know the band ons are not great but I am buggered if I am ruining a near perfect and original paint job at a high cost for a bottle cage.

Without knowing what the OP 's bike is ( guess its not a mainstream make) I would say that maybe price is a reason to buy it not the Surly.
Anyway most mtb frames are to some extent the same.
Sano. look at what look like small holes just above the axle. If they are threaded that can be used for mudguards or a rack. I must admit to not seeing a bike with them at the axle but not at the top of the seat stays somewhere.
If this is a mail order bike and you can't look and a rack is important, then just maybe it isn't the best choice to buy when there are tons of MTb's of this spec out there with rack mounts.

I'm a steel fan but would happily take the lot and test it for a year or two for you

I'll think about the drill.
Its only 1983 so still newish.
Alright suggest the lowest profile but effective add on bracket that can be used on the seat tube instead.

Who said it was old??
Its the wall thickness I was wondering about

Now how would you like to part with the Juicy's for a pittance? I want some hydraulics to chop up for a project.

plenty of choice here. Got a fasteners dealer next to a tool output. One has lots of alloy in every size but 5mm. The other has only 5mm but in steel. I'm working on it. Alloy seem cheaper. A fiver for 50 where as steel were a fiver plus for 20.

Cheers. I think I will practice on some old frames first.

I would guess that but why? virtually allalloy frames use them. Ideally a braze on job is best but thats not an option in this case.
Anyone done it?

bunged a 54 in

Anyone here used Rivnuts to add bottle bosses to a steel frame? I have replaced one in an alloy frame but am not so sure about adding an extra bottle mount to the seat tube of a 531c frame. Its a touch thing there. If you have done it did you use alloy or steel rivnuts?