Cycling UK Forum

Does it work?
Disc hubs mean no Campag splined hubs.
Ambrosio cassette or just try a Shimano/Sram cassette

Gone and ordered a Cotic X cross frame. Steel and carbon.

Just been to look at another. Cotic X. Thats the one for me. Not the most touring friendly but light and usable for sportives but also as a rough stuff thing.

Did consider converting a flat bar hybrid but i need a shorted than average top tube and flat bar specific bikes have longer TT's
The Cotic Road rat did look nice as well

How could I forget the tripster when I was fondling one 6 hours before.

No. CX bikes have only been allowed discs this year in competetions so really those that do have them are just a variation aimed at those who don't compete.

I like the simple threads so maybe just a list.
I want a drop barred bike. Disc brakes as I like to go off road and discs work better. So far i have on my list :
On One Pompetamine
Genesis Day one alfine and Croix de Fer
Kona Sutra and Honky Inc
Several Singulars
Cotic Road rat
Salsa Vaya and Fargo

Anymore?

Dunno what your other bike is made of but you could squeeze the Pomp in a bit. Why not split the difference and go for 125mm if the 120 is steel. If not you are stuck with that.
Or build wheels with 120 spacing but axles for 130. have a 5mm spacer that just slides on before swaping to the pomp. it will mean 5mm extra axle (sticking out maybe) with the 120 frame and won't work if you are using QR axles as they don't come through the dropout/ trcak end anyway.
having said all that decent threaded hubs are peanuts. Are you running fixed or freewheel? if the later hunt your local traditional bike shop for some old screw on wheels. Space to suit.

Totally daft question...
Did I read this meaning you didn't use your Veloce hub?
if so want to part with it?
mattsccm at fsmail dot net if you do

excellent

Can anyone tell me or provide a link to some definitive info regarding the variuos Reynolds tubing and their respective qualities? My rather dated knowledge runs to various 531 specs being topped by 653 ( possibly although some frame builders reckoned it was rather fragile and wouldn't use it) which is topped by 753 in r version as well. Nowadays there are all sorts of numbers out there and it would be interesting to see how they fit in to the scheme of things. Eg the 725??? where does that fit/ 520?

Ah. I have looked at some of those on the map. Ta lots. keep the ideas coming.

2 middle aged blokes with spring 50th's coming. What to do? LEJOG seemed good but a fortnight seems to lend itself to fastish main roads rather than twisty yellow ones. So idea 2. Gretna to JOG. West coast area but also in the hills appeals. Minor roads and gravel/estate roads. Some great potential seen this summer when around Applecross/Ullapool etc but has anyone done this sort of thing?
Got any suggestions for long bits of off road that can be covered by (lets say) cyclocross bikes?

In my experience 8 speed stuff is perfectly interchangeable. Some people say that it all needs to be new and tight and that its a bind to keep it running. If anything , a touch of wear takes up any tiny differences. Currently running 8 speed ergos, on a Shimano cassette. Keep swapping mechs as I build other bikes but used 8 speed campag, ancient Campag record, shimao fo several types and they all work fine. Just my experience though.

Just a few suggestions that may ( or may not ) help.
I think your concerns about frame repair are unfounded. Steel thick enough for bush repairs will be heavy and found on super cheapy mtbs. decent steel as on the bikes you mention won't be welded by some one squating in the gutter with an arc welder, holding a hand in front of their eyes. And nor would I want to. Ally won't break unless you are doing super silly stuff. Down hill bikes don't break. Consider the fact that alloy bikes tend to come with replaceable rear mech hangers. steel don't as they can be bent back but if they are really screwed so are you!
26" wheels makes sense are they are more common and you can get a choice of tyres.
Toe over lap is almost irrelevant. It may worry you, fair enough and maybe you have had problems but its really a theoretical issue. I have 7 bikes in the garage. All have an overlap and i had never noticed until reading this and looking. 40 years of racing bikes has yet to show a single problem. Don't let it stop you having an otherwise perfect bike. Might I guess that at your height you shoes size is fairly small? Worth considering.
I reckon your gearing is a touch off. 100" will be plenty for fast road work unless you want to pedal hard at 40 mph. using a standard MTb chain set of 22/32/42 with a 8 speed 11 to 34 cassette, again fairly common , you will get a range of 16.7 to 98.3. Change to a 48 front and it goes well over 100. In effect very easy to find.
V brakes good idea.
Why not look at something like Ridgeback or Genesis?
Just some thoughts based on the info i have.

Depending on funds why not just buy a mountain bike at your price range and modify it, narrower tyres etc. A small MTb is perfectly useable and 4'9 is no smaller than many kids who work perfectly well. Lots of the suggestions above are great by surely overcomplicated.

Oh yeah and most farmers markets are anything but. They are full of people selling jam at 3 quid a jar, weird bread and rare breed sausages. Usually found in towns where there are plenty of daft tourists. proper farmers markets sell toe cap wellies, boiler suits and sheep dip. Maybe washing powder in 20 kilo boxes and sliced bread.