Cycling UK Forum

Firstly I would not be taking anything here to literally. It is all in good faith, meant well and probably mostly correct but unless it is definitive legislation you may be liable to prosecution or objections.
You may find people object. I most certainly would as I believe firmly that discrimination is wrong and to allow one group of people preference over another is wrong. An inability to do something is not a case for different levels of discrimination. I'll be awkward and suggest that if a cyclist cannot ride safely because of their own abilities on the road where they are the most vulnerable then they surely should not be riding where they may cause harm to other more vulnerable. Choosing your own safety over that of others is wrong as is so strongly objected to here so very often when thinking about motorised traffic.
I am assuming of course that the OP and others are using fully legal ebike. Anything else is of course wrong and should be condemned.
I understand that I will be unpopular for this but have decided that popularity comes second to principles and I feel that individuals desires are secondary to the greater good.

1) Persevere with getting the sealant to work. Put a finger over the hole to aid bunging up.
2) Plug or plugs.
3)Bung a tube in. Might be messy but I always have some rubber gloves, if only to stop tools rattling. Do check for in situ sharp bits that have been sealed and may have been there for ages.
40 Or tyre boot

1 lever and my QR will take any tubeless tyre off. Valve nut should really only need fingers to undo but if you have over done it to seal the valve carry very small pliers as part of the multi tool although the chain breaker on my multitool works as well

Don't make it complicated. Foodwise, shove whatever you like or have in your pockets. I carry a small pack of Dextrasol tabs as they get me home or to a shop if I bonk. They live, damp, fused permanently and manky in the saddle bag. I roughly eat when ever I feel the need, maybe every 30 odd miles if I am going far but for a morning 50 maybe never. Rides I organise usually don't have a café stop as that means 10 or even 20 less miles in the same time. Calories and easy to carry are the main concern, stuff worrying about the precise content.
Waterproof shoes are few and far between. The skateboard style things are more commonly without vents. (Who the hell needs so many vents in the UK?) Or look at "winter" shoes. Or wear water proof socks. What ever you do seal the ankle area.

Ah but some might argue it is just a quick fix with its own problems, e.g. gappy gears and, weight and cost of cassette and chain line. Frame design can be dealt with and complexity is only an issue for the thick or lazy.

I don't think it is fair to moan about any system where the main problem is caused by user stupidity, as in presta valves bending.

Why not just use your favourite connectors. My dynamo set up uses the white plastic block connectors as they are quick to undo. (I swap the light between several bikes.) Easier still would be salvaged headphone sockets.

If you want to use USB, (C if you fancy) charging but dislike the fixed battery approach why not use light that charge via the C port but take a replaceable battery if needed? Seems to sort that argument.

A different approach. I guess it is a flat bar bike. You can get some hydraulic MTB brakes for not a lot. Generally much less fuss to adjust.

My rack has a label saying do not cover whilst moving. Seen that else where. Strain added by this and wind drag maybe?

Carradice super C SQR saddle bag. Tall and would take a laptop, QR fittings. Easy to remove so handy. Narrow. No sweaty back but a shoulder strap, Main advantage is no single pannier

"well, do they seem like little to you?"
I would say irrelevant. But each to their own.

Since acquiring a Garmin watch recently I just stopped using the bike computer for commuting. a couple of hours a day doesn't harm the watch and it dumps to the phone when I get home and switch the phone on. Only down side is it takes perhaps 30 or 40 seconds to find a satellite whereas the computers are just a few seconds. That's enough to be a pain when I have to wait to press go then put my gloves on. The watch isn't as accurate over distance either, being about 1% more optimistic and inaccurate than the computer.

As is common this is all very urban centric. Rural users have to travel so many more miles for day to day life and the miles they do are often less dirty as it can be a straight run. No stop start. If electric vehicles don't have a huge cost saving people won't buy them. Why pay more to then be charged as well? People will almost always favour their pocket not the environment.

Widest tyre you can fit. A bit of tread will help with real mud but just thinly coated tarmac will be fine with a slick. You'll cut through the slime. Low pressures are more likely to help.

I went tubeless a good few years ago and wouldn't go back. I have had 4 punctures in 6 years that I know of. All but one self sealed. Of course I could have had dozens but wouldn't know and isn't that the point?
The one that didn't sealed had a plug shoved in and it sealed. I top up the off road used fronts which barely wear maybe once a year. The rest when I do a tyre. My only road bikes that are not tubeless are the TT bikes which have tubs and the older steel framed ones which have skinny little 23 and 25 mm tyres, often a decade or more old.
I tubeless everything. I no longer care if the rim is supposed to be tubeless or not. They all work. I barely care if the tyre is meant to be. Almost anything with a folding bead will work.