Cycling UK Forum

keyboardmonkey

Hi, Edmo. Can't comment on the prostate concerns, but I got a new bike at Christmas with a Brooks B17 standard saddle. After the poor weather my first long ride was 75 miles. No cycling shorts - I slept in and couldn't find them - just running tights and M&S undies. Absolutely no problems. I think the 'breaking-in period' is possibly exaggerated. Well, for me anyway.

keyboardmonkey

Ahem, I'm now just a bit concerned about the 15T sprocket on what I hope will become my custom cassette: 13-15-17-19-21-23-26-30-34. On both cassettes (13-25 and 11-34) the sprocket nearest the smallest one (14 and 13 respectively) has its own integral spacer - the part of the sprocket that fits against the spline is considerably thicker and doesn't need a plastic spacer. Given that the next sprocket up (17 on my custom cassette) will be regular one and needs a plastic spacer am I worrying about nothing, or is there some technical reason why I can't put a normal sprocket (with a plastic spacer) next to the smallest one?

Of course, I could have avoided this hassle and bought a 14-25 (with the 'special' sprocket of 15T), but I wouldn't have had that gear over 100" - just in case - that the 13T sprocket gives me.

keyboardmonkey

rickhotrod wrote:You can make up a 13-32 by combining sprockets from two cassettes, such as a 13-25 and 11-32. If you use HG50 quality all the sprockets are loose once the three rivets are removed. You have to drill the head off each rivet and then knock the rivets out with a punch.

Are you able to replace the rivets once they've been drilled out? Or do you just put the individual sprockets on the body loose? It's been suggested on another thread that you ought to keep the rivets for stability. I wondered whether the rivets would stay in place after the flange has been drilled away.

I've bought the HG50 12-25 [edit: 13-25] and 11-34, by the way, giving me 13-15-17-19-21-23-26-30-34. Together with the existing (on a new bike) 11-25 it means I've got spare sprockets for my most commonly used gears. Well, that's the idea anyway. (Both cassettes and an HG53 chain cost less than £46.)

keyboardmonkey

unknown wrote:Anyone know if I can get away with an 8 speed derailleur on a 7 speed set up? Just can't seem to find 7 speed derailleurs on the internet anywhere...

It'll be fine. You would be likely to have a problem only if you tried a 7spd derailleur on a cassette with 8 sprockets. Just adjust the high and low screws as necessary/set up with your index levers.

keyboardmonkey

Did the stationery car belong to WH Smiths? Or was it Staples?

keyboardmonkey

Are you sure it's the derailleur that's the problem? Did you replace the old chain when you put the new wheel on with its new cassette? If you pair an old chain on with new cassette (though you say the previous cassette wasn't worn) you can often get grumbling noises. Just a thought.

keyboardmonkey

Thanks, Jack and Reohn2. In case it’s of interest to others, I bought the HG50 Deore 11-34 and HG50 Tiagra 13-25, and a HG53 for under £46 from chainreactioncycles.com. For me that is considerably cheaper than buying another triple chain set with smaller chain rings than those on my Sora (and/or worrying about compatibility/adjusting/replacing the front derailleur). I now also have a small stock of replacement sprockets for my next upgrade.

MacBludgeon wrote:are there any stock cassettes that start at 13 or 14t and are 9 speed? I need to sort out a new cassette and chain on my triple, 30/42/52. The current cassette is 12-26 but I've already switched to a MTB derailler so can run up to 34/36t. Based on my use of gearing I'd rather like a 13-32 going 13,14,15,17,19,21,24,28,32. I worked it all out using options from Sheldons gear calculator only to find some of the 9 speed cassettes he lists seem to be rather hard to source. He shows three options in particular, a 13-30, 13-34 and 14-34 that I like the look of. The easily available 11-32/34 actually reduce my options in my regular use range.

Got to dash now, but I think the Deore 11-32 cassette gives you your preferred option, MacBludgeon. Check on Shimano’s web site.

keyboardmonkey

Desiboy, from another thread elsewhere:

keyboardmonkey wrote:The spec on the Panorama has changed a little, and the list price now is £1200. The tech spec at ridgeback.co.uk (and on most dealer web sites) states that the chainset on the 2010 model is Shimano Deore. However, the photograph is different from the 2009 model and so I asked Ridgeback about this. You may be interested in the response:

"Amazingly Shimano still don't produce a specific transmission for touring & there are always minor issues with chain line & front derailleur function.

Contrary to the bike in the brochure & online, the 2010 Panorama will come with a Shimano chainset ref FC-443 this is below Deore but comes with a regular square taper axle which allow us to specify the optimum length for best function. In terms of benefit, this nominal downgrade far out weighs the a slightly better quality chainset with an inferior chain line."

Nice bike, though.

keyboardmonkey

Following on from comments way back on page one of this thread I've basically done what reohn2 was suggesting and bought two cassettes and a chain to make one cassette of 13-15-17-19-21-23-26-30-34. My current 11T rear sprocket is virtually redundant and I fancied something a bit more usable at the other end to go with the smallest chainring of 30T.

I don't see a problem, but it looks as though I will have to drill out the three retaining pins that hold the largest six sprockets together. My old Raleigh Road Ace, and the Ultegra cassette on my touring bike, had long thin threaded bolts that held the majority of the body together with just the screw-on smallest sprocket and the nearest one loose, as I remember.

keyboardmonkey

Thanks for the advice, folks. I didn't imagine shot blasting would be so cheap. If I can't find anywhere nearer I'll probably get in touch with Ellis Briggs shortly. Cheers.

keyboardmonkey

Raleigh Road Ace 52/42 13-24 (orig. 21) 6sp; Audax 50/39/30 11-25 9sp; Tourer 48/38/28 13-32 7sp; MTB 42/34/24 11-30 8sp

I have a Deore rear derailleur that I'm going to put on the Audax with an 11-32 cassette. Unless, that is, I can source a cassette with the smallest rear sprocket of about 13 or 14 - I can't push a gear much above 100".

keyboardmonkey

Thanks for that, PBA. Sorry, colin531, that I somehow missed your comment. My 531ST frame is nearly a quarter of a century old, and (apart from the rear derailleur, 7 speed cassette and chain) the most recent parts are early-mid 90s kit. The hubs are Deore DX and the rims are decent Mavic ones.

So if the frame doesn't collapse underneath me I hope to reuse what components I have after a bit of tlc and greasing etc (I'm putting back the old silver Deore rear derailleur now it's fixed).

I've hardly used the bike for ten years. In October I fancied a bit of a bike ride so I went around the Yorkshire Moors and Dales - about 300 miles in five days (not including the enforced rest day - I was shattered after two days of cycling). I'm hopeful there are some more miles in it yet. Thanks again - Chris.

keyboardmonkey

saudidave wrote:Of course the chap in the shop was horrified -he wants to pray on your fear so you will buy a new bike

Now, now, saudidave (although I did buy my new bike elsewhere). I hope you're right about the rust only being a surface problem, although I won't risk scraping any more off until the summer when I'll have time to work on it almost daily, and in good weather. Cheers.

keyboardmonkey

Thanks, Third Crank. I think I might keep the frame oiled then strip it down during the summer as a bit of a project.

keyboardmonkey

For well over 30 years I've cycled without a helmet, but since last summer I daren't ride without one - even for a short spin. Hope you won't feel the pain too much in the next few days. Got a new bike for Christmas, but I've ridden less than three miles on it. Might wait a bit longer until the weather improves before I go for a big ride. Take care - KM.

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