Cycling UK Forum

531colin

ferrit worrier wrote:
531colin wrote:Actually, can the grease get to the freewheel in a Shimano freehub?

No

Malc

This is beginning to worry me . I have hubs (and freewheel bits) on second or third rims. Can you tell when the freewheel is about to pack up?
Colin

531colin

If its durability you want, apart from accidents, durability means delaying the inevitable spoke fatigue. So you want box- section rims stiff enough to spread point loads over a number of spokes. Sportive- width rims probably come in 36 spokes maximum, which I would use in the rear, front is ok. with 32. Spoke gauge is important. 13g at the hub end resists fatigue better than 14g. (obviously) but double butted spokes give more under load to share that load between more spokes. So choice of spoke gauge depends on the rim. Thin stretchy spokes for light rims, strong rims can take thick strong spokes. Pair up light rims and thick spokes and you may find the rims fatigue around the spoke holes.

531colin

From the picture, it has double chainwheel and sidepulls. I don't think its even a tourer. It's worth £25 but only to a student to take to university so they don't get their good bike nicked.

531colin

Crepello
My reply of Wed 6 th.was meant to say that the machine- built traditionally -spoked wheels on Dawes bikes can be brought up to handbuilt standard (within limitations of components- not DT. spokes now) by following all the steps I listed. Sorry, that was obviously not clear. It is probably worth doing with new wheels, but as you say if the wheels have lots of miles on them you have to decide wether to re-spoke the existing rims or build on new rims.

531colin

The first thing I do is invalidate the warranty by drilling a 2mm. hole in the hub halfway between the spoke flanges, so I can pump in grease whenever I like, then cover the hole with tape. I used to worry about swarf in the hub, but it doesn't seem to matter. I use really cheap motor grease from the car bits shop, its nice and runny so it doesn't gum up the freewheel pawls. I havn't stripped a hub in years, just pump them up and wipe off the filth that squirts out. Actually, can the grease get to the freewheel in a Shimano freehub?

531colin

davidjks wrote:Hand built wheels are subject to the whims and vageries of the wheel builder. Hand built wheels normally use spokes with an elbow - a weakness. Most factory built wheels use spokes which are straight, Until about 6 years ago I always used handbulit wheels and although I'm not heavy - around 11 stone - they were always going out of true or spokes were snapping. Then magic; a pair of campag neutron wheels - not cheap mind you - but I must ahve done nearly 30k miles on these over the last 6 years or so, rims stll good, hubs as smooth as ever. Only problem I had was a spoke breaking after contact with the rear quick release on my pals bike when we were a touch close - wheel went out of true, bought a pack of spokes from Parker, fitted a replacement spoke, tightened it and bingo as good as new and still in use now. I also aquired a couple of years ago a pair of new handbuilt Mavic Open Pro/Campag Chorus hub wheels: these after only about 10k miles are on their second set of rims. Give me factory wheels anytime.

There are wheelbuilders and people who build wheels, just as there are cyclists and people who ride bikes.
What make are these factory wheels that take 35mm. tyres and use straight pull spokes? We are talking about Dawes Galaxies here.

531colin

What a wheelbuilder does, but a machine does not do, is as follows;-
1. when the wheels are laced up but not tensioned, adjust the elbow bends to suit the spoke's situation (4 different angles on a dished wheel, just 2 otherwise)
2. when the wheel is tight but not finished, settle the spoke heads into the hub flange, and stress the spokes (both of these slacken the spokes)
3. tension the spokes with reference to a tension gauge, true the wheel, balance the tension, true the wheel, balance the tension, to strike a balance between lateral and
vertical trueness and equality of tension
4.stress the wheel and re-true until stressing does not cause the wheel to go out of true.

And that's all there is to it. Simple really.

531colin

Darcus

Ever been self- employed? Just put yourself in the other bloke's shoes for a minute. You have already bought the expensive bits - hubs and rims. Now you are going to go shopping for CHEAP spokes, no doubt you will expect free advice with your cheap spokes, and to return them if they turn out to be the wrong length. Don't be surprised if you are recommended to go back to where you spent your money.
So nice to be retired, it won't be me shouting at you.

531colin

The Surly site is one that lists full frame dimensions. I looked at the 700c Long Haul Trucker and in my size at least the front centres (front wheel axle to BB axle) are so short that toe overlap can be promised! Surly are not alone in this respect, if it's important to you, you must dig for the information.

531colin

Thank you thirdcrank, I had no idea Brooks spares were available. I'm off to the loft to find all those old saddles that were "too bad to ride, too good to bin" and see if I can make a whole saddle!

531colin

Are chainsets not the same regardless of how many sprockets at the back? I thought a chainset is a chainset - am I wrong again?

531colin

I regard chains as disposable so I don't clean them. I use the Wipperman Connex 808, because its plated and looks nice, and I use Pro link lube because it picks up less grit than chain oil. I chuck the chain away when the wear gauge says so, and my cassettes last as long as the wheel rims.( I do rough-stuff, so the rims wear through ). The Pro link washes out, but what doesn't? Is this system easy? Yes it is. Is it economic? Who cares! I can earn the price of a chain in less time than it takes to clean the transmission properly just once.

531colin

Is it a hub with standard adjustable cup and cone bearings with quarter inch loose balls? If so, a regular replacement axle with/without cones etc. from the local bike shop will do nicely. A modern axle may need grinding down to length. If there is an inusual design you may have a problem.

531colin

Captain Mike
What are we like? We all told you to get a tourer, now nobody is saying "I bought brand X and I'm delighted with it". Last bike I bought was Orbit, no longer made! Maybe you need to get people's attention by starting a new thread like "RECOMMENDATIONS NEEDED - which tourer shall I buy?

531colin

The maximum mark on the stem is to ensure you get the stem fixed into and supported by a decent length of steerer tube below the threaded part. I cannot see how an extended locknut changes this. I have always been worried about the things, it seems to me to make as much sense as putting your own maximum mark on the stem. Am I missing the point?

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